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Old 19th October 2018, 15:50   #11
Yorkshire GOC
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Hi,

Even though HGF is a much rarer occurrenece on a KV6 - my advice for peace of mind is to fit a Hans Gauge - (On E-bay - MG ZT/Rover 75 EEzee Coolant gauge) - about £50 and 45 minutes for an auto sparks to fit. It shows the cars running temp and alarms at 110 AND 115 - saying that if your fan is working OK these temps will not reached. But you soon pick up the normal range of running temp for your car from the gauge - so you are forewarned if there is a coolant issue when normal parameters are breached.

You can also use the vehicles onboard diagnostic programme set up- AKA 19/07 - its a bit faffy but it will also display on your IPK the cars running temp as you are driving. If you search the site you will see guidance on the OB diagnostices which covers a lot of areas and i think for the age of the car is pretty good.

Others may recommend other solutions including just keeping a keen eye on the coolant tank contents but for me the Hans gauge is a really effective tool to counter overheating .
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Old 19th October 2018, 15:55   #12
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This is the link to how to operate on the onboard vehicle diagnostics including the engine running temperature -


https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...38&postcount=1
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Old 20th October 2018, 08:24   #13
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This is the link to how to operate on the onboard vehicle diagnostics including the engine running temperature -


https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...38&postcount=1

Excellent advice. Press and hold odometer mileage reset for around 5 seconds until the dash readout says "test-1" then repeatedly press until it reaches 19. Release and let it say "log-1 off". Then hit repeatedly until it says 7. That gives you the true engine temperature.


There's a bit of a knack to it as it will trip back to the odometer if you wait too long (or press too quickly!). Tip - if you use your odometer reading for measuring trip distance or for calculating fuel consumption, either make a note of the reading before going into diagnostic mode in case it trips out, in which case it annoyingly resets mileage to 0, or use the indicator stalk button to measure your mileage.


The dashboard needle is purely ornamental - it reaches 9o'clock at 75oC, starts climbing at 115oC and the red warning comes on when it reaches 12 o clock which is 120oC.


The KV6 is a lovely engine that rarely causes problems, but if you are unlucky enough to have heating and/or coolant issues then it's a bit of a maze trying to figure out the cause (most often leaking pipe, leaking thermostat, air lock, failed fan resistor, and occasionally dropped liner or head gasket, even a faulty coolant filler cap). Persevere, use advice from this forum and if a garage tells you that because it's a Rover it must be head gasket so scrap the car - they are probably wrong so change garage. The KV6 rarely suffers HGF due to the design and materials used, unlike the four cylinder and if a garage can't tell the difference between a 4 cylinder and a V6 then they shouldn't be working on your car.
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Old 4th November 2018, 00:12   #14
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I’m having pretty much the same problem with my MG ZT-T (KV6). But where does all the coolant go then?? I filled some four or five litres on a 1,000 km trip, and it must have gone somewhere. I mean, if it’s an airlock fault, how can it be consuming coolant?

Certainly don’t want it to be HGF but what other explanations are there?
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Old 4th November 2018, 08:47   #15
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I’m having pretty much the same problem with my MG ZT-T (KV6) ... Certainly don’t want it to be HGF but what other explanations are there?
Hello Jonathan and to the club.

The most common explanation is a leak through the thermostat housing 'O' ring and possibly the others in that area too. Remove the engine acoustic cover to check for dried antifreeze deposits or even ponds of coolant in the 'V'. The seals on the expansion tank cap flatten over time and lead to coolant loss. Failure of the radiator fan slow speed results in higher than normal running temperatures (the gauge won't warn you). Press the windscreen demist button immediately after a cold start and listen at the bonnet grille to check.

Overheating and coolant loss can follow an air lock created when the cooling system is drained for repairs and not refilled and bled according to the special MG Rover procedure. A sign of this can be erratic heater performance.

If you would like specific help with your own symptoms Jonathan, it would be a good idea to start a new thread for clarity.

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Old 4th November 2018, 09:25   #16
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Thank you very much for your kind reply!
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Old 4th November 2018, 10:59   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ricebridge View Post
I’m having pretty much the same problem with my MG ZT-T (KV6). But where does all the coolant go then?? I filled some four or five litres on a 1,000 km trip, and it must have gone somewhere. I mean, if it’s an airlock fault, how can it be consuming coolant?

Certainly don’t want it to be HGF but what other explanations are there?
Four litres plus is a huge amount - assuming the system was filled and bled beforhand you woul seem to have a serious issue - ignore it and you will cook the engine.
As mentioned, oil cooler feed pipes behind the rad, water pump, thermostat in the vee, plastic t piece in the vent pipe, radiator and plastic feed pipe elbow - any more anyone?
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Old 13th November 2018, 09:28   #18
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Just to add my three penny worth. My V6 had a new radiator a few months back and was running perfectly. A week or so ago I noticed that it suddenly started to lose coolant rather quickly (about half a pint on an eleven mile round trip to the station and back). First port of call was of course the V, where I noticed some liquid had accumulated. Using my hi-tech tool to identify it (a tightly rolled piece of kitchen roll inserted through the gaps in the manifold and dipped in the liquid. If it turns pink it's coolant. If it comes back brown it's probably mouse urine as a result of the little blighters once more nesting in the bonnet soundproofing). To my disappointment but without any real surprise it came back pink.

My first thought was, naturally enough, some part of the thermostat housing assembly. Quite annoying really as I'd been half way to it when swapping out my rattling inlet manifold chamber only a week or so earlier. The thought occurred to me that maybe I had knocked it while congratulating myself on getting the chamber off without detaching the throttle body.

I mentioned it to a mechanic friend who suggested I come round and let him have a look before I started taking it apart again. Once we got in there with a bright light and some mirrors it became apparent that the real culprit was a failed clip attaching the top hose to the thermostat housing. The coolant was leaking from the hose, down the back of the manifold and into the V, accumulating next to the thermostat housing.

A five minute fix after that.

Evidence once again of my favourite observation that water flows anywhere except in straight lines
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