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Old 2nd June 2009, 14:00   #21
Bernard LPG
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Originally Posted by Bernard LPG View Post
That photo with the pencil is exactly the same as one we have removed from a ZTT today. Any ideas why this should happen?

Has anyone found the equivalent bearing races so that they can be replaced without having to buy the complete hub?
I have since confirmed, with the aid of a press, that the outer race is machined into the hub and so the whole unit has to be changed. There is no cheap fix for this one! This question was raised again a couple of weeks ago but I can't find the thread now.
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Old 2nd June 2009, 19:07   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bernard LPG View Post
I have since confirmed, with the aid of a press, that the outer race is machined into the hub and so the whole unit has to be changed. There is no cheap fix for this one! This question was raised again a couple of weeks ago but I can't find the thread now.
???? By pure coincidence, I had the rear discs off the other week to servive the handbrake mech, and discovered the N/S/R wheel bearing was a bit noisy (sounded dry).
I removed the hub/bearing assembly, and found (on my car at least) that both races could be removed from the hub, using just fingers to pull them from the hub - the inner & outer races "click" together into a plastic retaining ring.

Inside the hub I found the original grease had completey dried out, more like candle wax. No sign of damage to the races though, so I re-packed the hub with LM grease and it's now all is quiet and smooth running :-)

I wonder if dried-out grease could eventually damage the races?
OR - I wonder if the factory didn't always rotate the hub whilst tightening the hub nut, causeing indentations in the races?

Great thread Podge, I wish I'd thought to take so many good piccies!
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Old 2nd June 2009, 20:10   #23
Bernard LPG
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Livermpj View Post
???? By pure coincidence, I had the rear discs off the other week to servive the handbrake mech, and discovered the N/S/R wheel bearing was a bit noisy (sounded dry).
I removed the hub/bearing assembly, and found (on my car at least) that both races could be removed from the hub, using just fingers to pull them from the hub - the inner & outer races "click" together into a plastic retaining ring.

Inside the hub I found the original grease had completey dried out, more like candle wax. No sign of damage to the races though, so I re-packed the hub with LM grease and it's now all is quiet and smooth running :-)

I wonder if dried-out grease could eventually damage the races?
OR - I wonder if the factory didn't always rotate the hub whilst tightening the hub nut, causeing indentations in the races?

Great thread Podge, I wish I'd thought to take so many good piccies!
Looks like there may be some differences between models and/or year.
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Old 2nd February 2011, 21:03   #24
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Thanks to Podge's how to I had a pleasant surprise today. Ordered rear bearing from Best of British at 3:30 yesterday .(Not using car since finding out Sun. bearing rough) .I was looking at how to by Podge before i had lift to work. Bearing delivered at 9:0 this morn fast. Even faster son came home from work at 9:10 at 9:47 had a text from him saying bearing done. He walked in seen Podge's how to left on laptop looks easy done that's fast . Found out reason for failure bearing hub cover not over nut gone . Must have been at last tyre change came off with wheel .CHECK YOURS My thanks go to Podge for doing how to ,Best of British for the v.fast delivery and finally to my son Craig at moment a 600 owner but cannot wait to change to a 75 he is always on this site gaining knowledge . Regards Alan
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Old 3rd February 2011, 07:08   #25
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Whats the purpose of putting the wheel back on before undoing the hub nut ? ive done 3 of these (faulty bearing failed in 6K) - Ive got it down to half an hour a side now

Just one thing to beaware of the grease cap should be changed as well as thats the seal to prevent water ingress
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Old 23rd May 2016, 23:22   #26
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Dragging up an old thread, but was just looking in the how to section, is the nut holding the bearing on definitely a 32mm? As I looked on Rimmers for a new 1 and 1 of them says that it's 36mm? I'll need to buy a socket for this so want to make sure I get the right size... Thanks.
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Old 24th May 2016, 10:24   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bikerdude666 View Post
Dragging up an old thread, but was just looking in the how to section, is the nut holding the bearing on definitely a 32mm? As I looked on Rimmers for a new 1 and 1 of them says that it's 36mm? I'll need to buy a socket for this so want to make sure I get the right size... Thanks.
Purchased my last bearing from Eurocar Parts, and the nut was 32mm, if that's any help.

Cheers

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Old 24th May 2016, 11:30   #28
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Thanks, I'll buy a 32mm socket then. I'll be getting the bearing from DMGRS as that seems to be the cheapest, and I need a couple of other bits from there.
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Old 26th June 2016, 14:27   #29
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First-time poster on here although I've been lurking for over a year, so please be gentle - I'll get round to writing an 'intro' post shortly.

I was just about to remove one of mine to investigate what I suspect is a dry/damaged bearing (before I order up a replacement) but I fell at the first hurdle. The retaining nut is definitely larger than 32mm as I already have a single-hex that size in my kit. It looks about 36mm but I can't find my vernier caliper to check so can anyone confirm that the alternative size is definitely 36mm before I go and order the wrong-sized socket?

Thanks in advance.

Last edited by DB55; 26th June 2016 at 14:30..
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Old 26th June 2016, 21:55   #30
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There are two sizes of nuts. I took off 36mm nuts and the bearing from Europarts came with 32mm nuts.
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