Peugeot intank pump - too much pressure? - Page 3

scgfull · 7th January 2009, 19:46

Like Davidm-uk, I am also confused about the pump.

I therefore had a look at the RAVE and the attached is an abstract from this.

r75 fuel tank and pumps.pdf

It would appear from this that the tube attached to the top of the external top of the pump body is actually a return and that the flow goes from the other side of the tank through connection C2.

I may be totally wrong though.

efreeti · 7th January 2009, 22:56

Neither of those diagrams seem to be fully accurate. There is another fuel circuit diagram on there which is slightly different as well.

Looking at the photos from the how to it does seem that the two pipes on top of the assembly just drop down either side of the pump so surely must be return pipes?

If work is quiet tomorrow I'm going to take the seat out and have another look. Unfortunately I just added 62 litres of fuel!

James.uk · 8th January 2009, 00:23

Treating this as a simple water pump problem -- why not put a "T" junction on the Peugeot outlet side with a simple screw valve (obtainable from any pond-garden centre) on the side of the "T" that returns liquid to the tank, and then adjusting that untill the main outlet feed (to the engine compartment) reaches the required pressure.

If no guage is availble to read the pressure you can work it out, With a length of pipe you could simply raise the pipe up in the air untill the "head" reached (height above the pump inlet level) equals the amount of output the car needs.. Any surplus could then be controlled by "leaking off" via the "T" adjuster.

Given the diameter of the pipe, and the head reached, there is a mathamatical formula for working out the pump output pressure. I don't know what that formula is, but it was on the info when I bought a pump for my garden pond.

and I used a "T" as described above to reduce the pump output to my header tank-filter to avoid it overflowing..

I will have to do that all again this summer as my old pond pump finally gave up on me, and my new pump is far more powerfull.

.

7th January 2009, 19:46	#21
scgfull Loves to post none Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: resigned - but can't get off Posts: 286 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Like Davidm-uk, I am also confused about the pump. I therefore had a look at the RAVE and the attached is an abstract from this. r75 fuel tank and pumps.pdf It would appear from this that the tube attached to the top of the external top of the pump body is actually a return and that the flow goes from the other side of the tank through connection C2. I may be totally wrong though. __________________ Steve Memeber 4069

7th January 2009, 22:56	#22
efreeti Gets stuck in ZT-T CDT 130+ (04) & 75 Tourer CDT Auto (52) & a 1998 MGF (with HGF!) Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Halifax Posts: 903 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	Neither of those diagrams seem to be fully accurate. There is another fuel circuit diagram on there which is slightly different as well. Looking at the photos from the how to it does seem that the two pipes on top of the assembly just drop down either side of the pump so surely must be return pipes? If work is quiet tomorrow I'm going to take the seat out and have another look. Unfortunately I just added 62 litres of fuel! __________________ Jim Replace in tank fuel pump with Peugeot alternative Dismantle and re-fit interior and seats Retrofit electric memory seats without the loom All followed at your own risk! Available to borrow: I have a home made (tried and tested) Cam Locking tool for M47 should anyone need it.

8th January 2009, 00:23	#23
James.uk Passed Away 2002 Pale Blue. Rover 75 CDTi Connoisseur auto. 170K miles Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Near the M67. Posts: 14,509 Thanks: 199 Thanked 585 Times in 397 Posts	Treating this as a simple water pump problem -- why not put a "T" junction on the Peugeot outlet side with a simple screw valve (obtainable from any pond-garden centre) on the side of the "T" that returns liquid to the tank, and then adjusting that untill the main outlet feed (to the engine compartment) reaches the required pressure. If no guage is availble to read the pressure you can work it out, With a length of pipe you could simply raise the pipe up in the air untill the "head" reached (height above the pump inlet level) equals the amount of output the car needs.. Any surplus could then be controlled by "leaking off" via the "T" adjuster. Given the diameter of the pipe, and the head reached, there is a mathamatical formula for working out the pump output pressure. I don't know what that formula is, but it was on the info when I bought a pump for my garden pond. and I used a "T" as described above to reduce the pump output to my header tank-filter to avoid it overflowing.. I will have to do that all again this summer as my old pond pump finally gave up on me, and my new pump is far more powerfull. .