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Old 28th September 2018, 18:53   #1
MGJohn
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Question Sub-frame drop and 1.8T Gearbox removal question.

Only a few minor fasteners to enable me to drop and remove the sub-frame to allow gearbox removal. Before doing so, I have a question ... about partial removal of the sub-frame. Here it is.

If I loosen all six sub-frame main 15 mm long bolts, remove those three on the Gearbox side, can that side of the sub-frame be lowered sufficiently to allow the gearbox to be lowered and removed that way?

I attach a few images of work in progress today. I leisurely coupe of hours in the superb sunshine. I include a wide angle image of the gearbox area which makes me suspect it can now be removed that way.
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Old 28th September 2018, 20:29   #2
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You can drop the subframe as you suggest by removing the three passenger side bolts and loosening the other three. This will give you room to get the gearbox in and out.

But.....


If you want to do it the easy way with no swearing, take the subframe off completely, I do this now on every clutch change as it makes life so much easier.
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Old 28th September 2018, 22:40   #3
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You can drop the subframe as you suggest by removing the three passenger side bolts and loosening the other three. This will give you room to get the gearbox in and out.

But.....


If you want to do it the easy way with no swearing, take the subframe off completely, I do this now on every clutch change as it makes life so much easier.

Thank you trikey, that's the sort of advice I seek.

All things considered, having renewed the clutch on a number of MGs and Rovers over the years, I would prefer to do TWO clutch jobs on Rover 620ti rather than one 1.8T 75/ZT.

So much gubbins to remove. I think it would be easier to do it taking the engine out. The last 1.8T ZT clutch job I did was with the engine out. A doddle then in comparison..

That video posted elsewhere in this club was useful. Howver, would I be right in thinking it's easier on the Diesel 75s and ZTs?
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Old 29th September 2018, 20:33   #4
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Question Progress is slow. Another hold up.

Was able to set aside an hour under the car today. Every item connected to the sub-frame has been removed or detached. Only the six long 15 mm Bolts now hold the Sub-frame in place and those have been wire brushed, sprayed with good penetrating fluid and loosened. Now fully ready to drop and remove.

However the well known Law of Zod plays its part .. again. Part of the rear of the Sub-frame straddles the front part of the Exhaust Pipe containing the Catalytic Converter. That will surely be a problem for clearance.

I will need to release the whole exhaust system from its rubber hangers and move rewards to allow sufficient clearance before the Sub-frame can be lowered and away. Before doing all that, a question. Can it be lowered only at the front allowing sufficient clearance to remove the Gearbox? I have in mind removal of the two front pairs of 15 mm Bolts, loosening the two rear most bolts and dropping the Sub-frame down at the front.

Otherwise, I will have to raise the rear of the car to allow sufficient access to the Rubber Exhaust Hangers.

Images attached show what is involved.
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Old 29th September 2018, 20:35   #5
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would I be right in thinking it's easier on the Diesel 75s and ZTs?


Nope, its definitely easier on a 1.8, you can get to most things (Including removing the driveshaft bearing and the lower engine mount) From above!

Plenty of room to get to everything
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Old 29th September 2018, 20:38   #6
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[QUOTE=MGJohn;2673462]
Can it be lowered only at the front allowing sufficient clearance to remove the Gearbox?[QUOTE]

Remove the exhaust at the front downpipe, remove both cross braces under the gearbox tunnel, drop the front exhaust rubbers off, you can then lower the exhaust, leaving it on the rear rubbers and move it to the side of the car.

I secure it to the axle stand with a bungee
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Old 29th September 2018, 20:39   #7
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Nope, its definitely easier on a 1.8, you can get to most things (Including removing the driveshaft bearing and the lower engine mount) From above!

Plenty of room to get to everything
Thanks for that input.

Please see my previous post two minutes before yours. Another hold up delay.
Ahah ... now seen your 20:38 post thanks.

Good grief, I do wish I had a pro-spec high lift so I could work under the car standing up.
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Last edited by MGJohn; 29th September 2018 at 20:51.. Reason: Spelling and other stuff
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Old 29th September 2018, 20:42   #8
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God grief, I do wish I have a pro-spec high lift so i could work under the car standing up.
Same here, all mine are done at ground level too, I feel your pain!
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Old 29th September 2018, 21:01   #9
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Cool

Answered the phone since that last hurried post ~ another car enthusiast wanting a chat ..

This afternoon I did spend time under the car looking at ways to address that Exhaust Pipe clearance problem. I had anticipated something like that needing to be done. You have provided confirmation trikey. Thank you again. I had already removed the Downpipe. That was easy as I had "disturbed" those pesky 15 mm Elbow Stud Nuts when fitting the MG6 engine a few years ago. They were easy to remove because of that.

When time allows, I'll be under the car again removing those pesky rubber exhaust hangers. Deep Joy ... not! They look like the ones it left the production line with.

K 1.8 Easier than the Diesel you say ... Good grief! Massive amount of stuff to remove, dismantle or set aside. That has taken a huge amount of time.

Progress updates will follow.

Getting there .... s l o w l y..
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Old 30th September 2018, 11:44   #10
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John

My clutch change saga thread may help answer some of your questions as you go along - I definitely recommend complete subframe removal, even though some 'experts' say it is not necessary. Keep up the good work !


https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s...d.php?t=260334

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