Anyone know anything about Jags?

moonstoneboy · 24th April 2009, 08:02

A friend has just bought a Cobra replica fitted with a modest 5.7L Chevy lump, which gives a rather nice power to weight ratio.

It uses a Jag rear set up which is probably 20 years old but could be younger.

When I checked it the other night one of the rear wheel bearings is loose. I understand that these are adjustable. However, before adjusting them I need to know the method of correctly adjusting them.

Do any of you know how? Loathe to adjust them without this – it is not unknown for things to shear due to bearings being adjusted too much.

Thanks

Paul

James.uk · 24th April 2009, 17:15

Dependant on model, it is probably a tapered bearing and adjusts as stated above. :lol:
.

Phil · 24th April 2009, 18:23

If its a tapered bearing, I've always removed and greased them, then tighten the nut by hand until the side to side movement in the wheel is all gone, then tighten a bit more,(only a bit) then back off again and tighten til the side to side movement goes completely. But not overtight, you should be able to adjust it enough with just a socket and extension bar without ratchet. I don't think I've had to do one for at least 5 years though!

Fraser Mitchell · 24th April 2009, 19:17

No, No it's not at all like the front bearing. (I assume you are talking of the IRS design which came out with the E-type in 1961. The hub bearing MUST have some play, but on the the Jag IRS setup this is set by use of a spacer on the drive shaft on the side where is goes into the hub. Jaguar used to list a variety of thicknesses for this spacer. The nut itself is then done up fully tight, once the bearing clearance has been set correctly using a dial gauge.

I know, because I have done a 1980 XJ6 rear wheel bearings, although it was some time ago. I used to have the dial gauge as well, but it's long since gone !

podge · 24th April 2009, 21:07

That sounds just like the front wheel bearings on my MGB,you have to have the hub nut tight but by using a selection of shims and a dial gauge ,the end float of the bearing is set at 2 thou.

moonstoneboy · 25th April 2009, 05:01

Many thanks for your replies.

Managed to find a manul for Jags and it is as Fraser says. The manual states using a special tool to place the inner race of the inner bearing at a set position, measure end float and then select the appropriate thickness shim.

Nice easy job!

Fraser, how did you locate the inner race so that you could get the correct shim without the special tool?

Paul

24th April 2009, 08:02	#1
moonstoneboy Posted a thing or two Rover 75 Connoisseur SE CDT Tourer - naturally in Moonstone Green Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Surrey - near Gatwick Airport Posts: 1,316 Thanks: 0 Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts	Anyone know anything about Jags? A friend has just bought a Cobra replica fitted with a modest 5.7L Chevy lump, which gives a rather nice power to weight ratio. It uses a Jag rear set up which is probably 20 years old but could be younger. When I checked it the other night one of the rear wheel bearings is loose. I understand that these are adjustable. However, before adjusting them I need to know the method of correctly adjusting them. Do any of you know how? Loathe to adjust them without this – it is not unknown for things to shear due to bearings being adjusted too much. Thanks Paul

24th April 2009, 18:23	#3
Phil This is my second home Rover 75 CDT Connoisseur SE Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Wales Posts: 12,227 Thanks: 469 Thanked 523 Times in 241 Posts	If its a tapered bearing, I've always removed and greased them, then tighten the nut by hand until the side to side movement in the wheel is all gone, then tighten a bit more,(only a bit) then back off again and tighten til the side to side movement goes completely. But not overtight, you should be able to adjust it enough with just a socket and extension bar without ratchet. I don't think I've had to do one for at least 5 years though! __________________

24th April 2009, 21:07	#5
podge I really should get out more....... Rover 75 Tourer CDT CLUB SE Copper Red Mica Dec 01 ....now deceased....replaced by2003 Royal Blue T Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: North Warnborough, Hampshire Posts: 2,398 Thanks: 9 Thanked 69 Times in 20 Posts	That sounds just like the front wheel bearings on my MGB,you have to have the hub nut tight but by using a selection of shims and a dial gauge ,the end float of the bearing is set at 2 thou. __________________ 01 75 CDT Club SE Tourer..."The Rover 75 is a British-built car to be proud of." B.M.Ws loss........OUR GAIN!!!!!!!! http://knowledgerush.com/wiki_image/...arp.300pix.jpg http://farm1.static.flickr.com/167/3...b847e1c5_m.jpg

24th April 2009, 17:15	#2
James.uk Passed Away 2002 Pale Blue. Rover 75 CDTi Connoisseur auto. 170K miles Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Near the M67. Posts: 14,509 Thanks: 199 Thanked 585 Times in 397 Posts	Dependant on model, it is probably a tapered bearing and adjusts as stated above. :lol: .

24th April 2009, 19:17	#4
Fraser Mitchell Gets stuck in Rover 75 2.5 V6 Club Auto Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Crewe Posts: 898 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	No, No it's not at all like the front bearing. (I assume you are talking of the IRS design which came out with the E-type in 1961. The hub bearing MUST have some play, but on the the Jag IRS setup this is set by use of a spacer on the drive shaft on the side where is goes into the hub. Jaguar used to list a variety of thicknesses for this spacer. The nut itself is then done up fully tight, once the bearing clearance has been set correctly using a dial gauge. I know, because I have done a 1980 XJ6 rear wheel bearings, although it was some time ago. I used to have the dial gauge as well, but it's long since gone !

25th April 2009, 05:01	#6
moonstoneboy Posted a thing or two Rover 75 Connoisseur SE CDT Tourer - naturally in Moonstone Green Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Surrey - near Gatwick Airport Posts: 1,316 Thanks: 0 Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts	Many thanks for your replies. Managed to find a manul for Jags and it is as Fraser says. The manual states using a special tool to place the inner race of the inner bearing at a set position, measure end float and then select the appropriate thickness shim. Nice easy job! Fraser, how did you locate the inner race so that you could get the correct shim without the special tool? Paul