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18th April 2018, 06:45 | #61 | |
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That makes the maximum length difference you should expect 1.41mm between any two of our 1.76 meter long front cam belts. That takes the error down to 0.6 degrees on the sprocket.(going through the calculations with 1.41 in stead of the assumed 5mm) You must be mad to think you can adjust your sprockets with that accuracy!
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18th April 2018, 08:16 | #62 | |
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Did you get that reference for these particular belts, or is it just a general tolerance?
Variations in belt tension can also affect the timing if you don't make use of the floating cams. So Rover either added the floating cams so that the belt tolerance and tension can be accounted for independently of the timing, or it is as you stated below: Quote:
. Last edited by Mike Noc; 18th April 2018 at 08:18.. |
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18th April 2018, 08:53 | #63 |
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Has the outer part of your pulley slipped?
Good morning Gary,
I have placed my pulley horizontally in the vice and inserted the special tool into the large hexagonal recess and pushed! There is absolutely zero movement between the outer and inner parts of the pulley. Inspecting the rubber ring on both sides it has light crazing on its surface, very impressive after 19 years' service I'd suggest. It has no cracks, no evidence of separation from the cast iron parts and no shredding. I absolutely agree with you that the factory notch is in the wrong place but how did it get there?
I guess that replacement is probably a wise choice but I never like to do that unless I understand why I am doing it! Simon
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18th April 2018, 09:19 | #64 | |
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In future I'll be keeping my eye on this type of event for all the k engine types, as its a good case history and lesson learned. Last edited by Lovel; 18th April 2018 at 09:23.. |
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18th April 2018, 09:33 | #65 | |
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It would have been quite easy to miss it on the line, but QC should have picked it up when the pulley was manufactured, unless of course it was a correctly manufactured part for a different engine. |
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18th April 2018, 11:44 | #66 |
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A storm in a glass of water?.
That mark is only used to find the "safe" position. After that, no use. Go by the-cut out on the small pulley for the belts, and move on. If you like, and if the mark is really not there, make a mark in the appropriate place. The position of the engine for timing the cams is in any case determined by the peg in the flexplate, where the rear sprockets of the cams are in line. Really curios, but totally irrelevant, provided there is no de-lamination of the pulley. I would clean really well, and then check again. I would also paint the pulley, as it seems it is very vulnerable to rust. As for an earlier question regarding the tolerance of cam belts, it was a generic tolerance and not specifically aimed at our belt. No reason to believe that does not apply to our belts as well.
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18th April 2018, 12:07 | #67 | |||||
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Thanks for your interest anyway. Simon
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18th April 2018, 18:41 | #68 |
Posted a thing or two
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I have some more images somewhere but this will show you what I mean. I've found a laser line very handy when wanting to make reference marks across stepped or uneven surfaces. A dab of typex here and there using the laser line and you can always get it spot on. Trying to use a straight edge and mark a backplate or similar, whilst also trying to get ones head in a place where you can see what you are doing can be a nightmare. It was during the mark up on the V6 that I thought of it and it made life so much easier and I have reached for the laser a few times since.
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18th April 2018, 19:11 | #69 | |
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But it pales into insignificance compared with trying to get access to the two air con. compressor bolts which are inserted into the front mounting plate. Simon
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19th April 2018, 07:51 | #70 | |
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I also envisage that if an owner entrusts their KV6 or K-series to a professional outfit they for sure will not appreciate this issue, and may engage the timing pin on any random hole on the back of the flywheel (KV6). |
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