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Old 24th January 2021, 16:08   #41
Ched
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Strange as it sounds, when its dark get someone to try and start the car while you look at the fusebox for sparking, I had this happen to me and by chance I saw it sparking, replaced and it was all good.

Have you another key you can try?

Despite all the suggestions its probably worth you getting someone with a t4 to pay you a visit, it should end all the speculation and save you spending money on things they dont need replacing.
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Old 24th January 2021, 18:13   #42
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Originally Posted by Timefortea23 View Post
I checked link 3 and yes I'm getting 12v either side of that ...
Excellent Dan. So you're losing the 12v supply between fuse link 3 (underbonnet) and fuse 28 (passenger footwell) and ...
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Originally Posted by Timefortea23 View Post
... I took the fuse box out a couple of days ago ...
Take it out again and locate the brown/blue wire (between fuse link 3 and fuse 28). Look for accidental damage but remove the battery negative clamp before starting work (after your sat. nav. has shut down).

Let me know how you get on.

Simon
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Old 24th January 2021, 18:20   #43
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... its probably worth you getting someone with a t4 ... it should end all the speculation ...
There's no speculation from me David.
A T4 wouldn't help with this one.

Simon
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Old 31st January 2021, 16:03   #44
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Originally Posted by SD1too View Post
Excellent Dan. So you're losing the 12v supply between fuse link 3 (underbonnet) and fuse 28 (passenger footwell) and ...

Take it out again and locate the brown/blue wire (between fuse link 3 and fuse 28). Look for accidental damage but remove the battery negative clamp before starting work (after your sat. nav. has shut down).

Let me know how you get on.

Simon
Hi Simon.

I've had a good look under the fuse box on the brown/blue wire and I can't see any significant damage. Some ideas:

- Should I run a temporary wire from fuse link 3 to fuse 28 to test?
- Could I test cam sensor of another vehicle that I have to see if that resolves it (we've also got a 1.8 ZT)?
- How would I go about getting a wiring diagram or official workshop manual? The Haynes wiring diagrams seem limited in scope.

Another quick note, we did a test for spark and we're getting good spark.

Cheers,

Dan.
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Old 31st January 2021, 16:14   #45
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How would I go about getting a wiring diagram or official workshop manual?
Rimmer: https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-ZAA000400
They were available from the Forum Shop at one time. Worth asking.

TC

EDIT: Oh I see you have one already. Haven't you got it running yet? 'Backdating' the Win 10 clock needs a bit more cunning than Win 7/XP. I see Rimmer says their disc is for Win XP or 7 only.

Last edited by T-Cut; 31st January 2021 at 16:29..
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Old 31st January 2021, 16:38   #46
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Originally Posted by T-Cut View Post
Rimmer: https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-ZAA000400
They were available from the Forum Shop at one time. Worth asking.

TC

EDIT: Oh I see you have one already. Haven't you got it running yet? 'Backdating' the Win 10 clock needs a bit more cunning than Win 7/XP. I see Rimmer says their disc is for Win XP or 7 only.
Thanks TC I'll look into getting one. No I've not got a workshop manual, only a Haynes. Guessing the full workshop manual will have some more detail. Dan.
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Old 31st January 2021, 17:00   #47
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Originally Posted by Timefortea23 View Post
- Should I run a temporary wire from fuse link 3 to fuse 28 to test?
Hello Dan,

That's an interesting suggestion. However I have inspected the circuit more closely and if there was a break in that wire you would also lose a supply to the rear electric windows and probably the front driver's window too. So my first question is: are they working normally (fuses 30 & 34 in the passenger fusebox)?
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Originally Posted by Timefortea23 View Post
Could I test cam sensor of another vehicle ...
Your fault has nothing to do with the camshaft sensor Dan.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Timefortea23 View Post
The Haynes wiring diagrams seem limited in scope.
The Haynes wiring diagrams are terrible and no use at all. I have the official diagrams but they're not easy to follow either as they're so fragmented. I'm happy to help you with this as we're quite close to the solution now.

Simon
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Old 31st January 2021, 21:31   #48
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Hello Dan,

That's an interesting suggestion. However I have inspected the circuit more closely and if there was a break in that wire you would also lose a supply to the rear electric windows and probably the front driver's window too. So my first question is: are they working normally (fuses 30 & 34 in the passenger fusebox)?
Thanks again for the quick response .

So I've checked with the multi-meter and I'm not getting 12v to any of the right hand bank of fuse panel under the glove compartment (locations 28 to 54). Accordingly the windows, horn and radio were not operating.

As a test I bypassed 12v from FL3 to the back of the fuel pump fuse, using a spare wire. Initially this set off the horn alarming, which I was able to disable with the key fob button. In this state the windows are working, the horn and radio also. However the car will still not start, I still can't hear the fuel pump prime and there is still an engine warning light. Also the consistent hazards that where previously present have stopped.
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Old 1st February 2021, 06:47   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SD1too View Post
Hello Dan,

That's an interesting suggestion. However I have inspected the circuit more closely and if there was a break in that wire you would also lose a supply to the rear electric windows and probably the front driver's window too. So my first question is: are they working normally (fuses 30 & 34 in the passenger fusebox)?

Your fault has nothing to do with the camshaft sensor Dan.

The Haynes wiring diagrams are terrible and no use at all. I have the official diagrams but they're not easy to follow either as they're so fragmented. I'm happy to help you with this as we're quite close to the solution now.

Simon



I remember seeing / Hearing about this fault once before, the owner had unplugged a multi way plug in the engine compartment and the car ran but there was something that did not work which he just lived with. I think the plug was close to the fuse box under the bonnet and there were two of these plugs. they were a bit like a scart plug on a TV one was longer that the other.
sorry I cant remember more. the car was a light blue metallic tourer, I cant remember which engine was in her. But the bloke drove the car about with this plug unplugged. Oh I wish my memory still worked the way it used to.
Best of luck sorting out the problem. Remember a petrol engine only needs 4 things to run. Fuel, air, compression, and a spark. yes they all have to happen at the right time but she was running before she stopped. So its a fair bet that one of these 4 is missing. My money is Fuel, probably caused by an ECU fault. Is there someone out there who can give him a loan of a KV6 3 part kit ie an ECU the Box behind the light switch above the brake pedal and an transducer chip. I have one for a Diesel but don't have one for the V6. There must be someone out there who has a 3 part kit on their shelf they could give him a loan off to rule out the ECU.
Alan
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Old 1st February 2021, 09:39   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timefortea23 View Post
... I'm not getting 12v to any of the right hand bank of fuse panel under the glove compartment (locations 28 to 54).
Good work Dan!
Right, I have studied the wiring diagrams and discovered this.

The brown/black wire from engine fusebox FL3 has a splice somewhere on its route to the passenger footwell fusebox. This splice has five wires all the same colour, brown/black. The splice is a prime suspect since its five wires supply all the fuses which you report are dead.

Can you find this splice? The first place I'd look is behind the passenger footwell fusebox. The four output wires go to passenger fusebox connector C0581 pins 15, 33, 50 & 51.

Simon
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Last edited by SD1too; 1st February 2021 at 10:14.. Reason: Updated information
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