|
||
|
24th May 2021, 18:39 | #121 | |
This is my second home
MG ZT CDTi Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: carrick
Posts: 7,859
Thanks: 3,494
Thanked 2,657 Times in 1,973 Posts
|
Quote:
Thinking about (and discussing) it, only to dismiss both practical and accepted practice, before even gaining personal practical experience is just ridiculous in this application. Forward planning too, also helps. Doing a number of jobs in the one area can mean it beneficial to do one large job for thoroughness. Perhaps a subframe refurb whilst most of the components are out? Sent from my SM-A600FN using Tapatalk
__________________
It is not gloss primer .............. it is duct tape silver! Last edited by clf; 24th May 2021 at 18:41.. |
|
25th May 2021, 05:26 | #122 |
Gets stuck in
75 Tourer Automatic conn, 75 Saloon Automatic Conn, The Monograme Spice Tourer Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Johnstone
Posts: 670
Thanks: 57
Thanked 231 Times in 151 Posts
|
I knew I had seen a link to this topic at last I have found it. Sadly drop links is what drop links are. Back in the distant past I bought a set of drop link spanners. I think it was from Frost they were a company who sold quality stuff for classic car repairers. ie engine enamel paint that was nice and thick so that an engine coated with three coats really looked the part. A very deep thick solid colour, lots and lots of pigment, they also sold the full range of Dinitrol products. and a very diverse range of specialist tools from suspension cone compressors to thread gauge plates to specialist access spanners. One of their special offers was for a set of drop link spanners. I duly ordered the spanners and also a set of crows feet spanners a set of thread gauge plates and a set of standard thread gauges to round the order up to a totally obscene amount I had added on a set of easyouts I think the whole lot came to about £200 by the time the excise man got his cut. most of the tools were American made the drop link spanners looked like my home made ones but were to a much higher finish. A set of spanners with different angled cranks either end each spanner had two ends both of which were the same size and the spanners covered most of the common sizes in which drop links came in. As I remember the metric spanners were twice the price of the imperial ones, and there was one size missing that I could relay have used on a cat a few years back seem to remember it being 18mm though I am not certain. the thickness of these spanners was just s nats whisker over 2.4mm whilst the jaw surround was not much over 4mm. they were made from Nymonic plate which was what gave them their strength whilst allowing them to be incredibly thin. whilst being incredibly strong.
For the man with the problem of fitting a spanner in on the shank of the drop link today the cheep option is to grind down the thickness of a suitable spanner on the bench grinder until the spanner fits easily on the flats of the link pin with out damaging the rubber boot. I have also seen kits where they have a selection of boots which are cut open in a straight line these you popped around the offending joint then applied a glue down the face of the cut edge when the two edges touched they were permanently stuck in that position, I guess it was a case of each to their own. Sadly, there is no easy way to do this job you pick which ever method you prefer and Bob's your Auntie. Best of luck to every one doing this job. Alan |
25th May 2021, 07:04 | #123 | |||
Doesn't do things by halves
Rover 75 2.5 Connoisseur Auto (1999) Dealer launch model. Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Former Middlesex
Posts: 20,342
Thanks: 1,587
Thanked 3,749 Times in 3,181 Posts
|
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Simon
__________________
"Whatever is rightly done, however humble, is noble." Sir Henry Royce. |
|||
25th May 2021, 07:15 | #124 | ||
Doesn't do things by halves
Rover 75 2.5 Connoisseur Auto (1999) Dealer launch model. Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Former Middlesex
Posts: 20,342
Thanks: 1,587
Thanked 3,749 Times in 3,181 Posts
|
Quote:
Quote:
Simon
__________________
"Whatever is rightly done, however humble, is noble." Sir Henry Royce. |
||
25th May 2021, 10:03 | #125 | |
This is my second home
MG ZT CDTi Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: carrick
Posts: 7,859
Thanks: 3,494
Thanked 2,657 Times in 1,973 Posts
|
Quote:
As far as the bolts go, I know they are replaceable, but a snapped bolt in the subframe would be inconvenient to say the least. Sent from my SM-A600FN using Tapatalk
__________________
It is not gloss primer .............. it is duct tape silver! |
|
25th May 2021, 18:27 | #126 | |
Gets stuck in
75 Tourer Automatic conn, 75 Saloon Automatic Conn, The Monograme Spice Tourer Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Johnstone
Posts: 670
Thanks: 57
Thanked 231 Times in 151 Posts
|
Quote:
I have to agree with Arctic hear, over fifty years of working on classic cars both as a hobby and business I have probably done over a hundred drop links the most recent was last month when I replaced the front and rear drop links on the spice tourer. The method I used is the same as Arctic describes. Nothing is impossible some things are just a little more complex than others. Alan Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk |
|
25th May 2021, 18:41 | #127 | |
Gets stuck in
75 Tourer Automatic conn, 75 Saloon Automatic Conn, The Monograme Spice Tourer Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Johnstone
Posts: 670
Thanks: 57
Thanked 231 Times in 151 Posts
|
Quote:
Bolts and set screws on our cars are meant to be single use. Where possible you should not reuse a bolt setscrew or nut, when changing subframes on 75s I always replace the subframe bolts. And every bolt I remove I replace as a matter of course with a new one of the same or higher specification. I see from many of the posts that the grinding of spanner’s is common place. I have always said that design and construction engineers and those in the drawing offices should be made to work on and service the plant and buildings they design. They would make things in a very different way. Always when building anything think of the poor bloke who has to work on it after installation. Alan Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk |
|
25th May 2021, 19:01 | #128 |
Gets stuck in
75 Tourer Automatic conn, 75 Saloon Automatic Conn, The Monograme Spice Tourer Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Johnstone
Posts: 670
Thanks: 57
Thanked 231 Times in 151 Posts
|
Regardless of what method you find suits you stick with it we all have our quirks in the way we do things. For myself when I was younger my first concern was always can my oversize hands fit it that wee space. Now with age and health against me my first concern is can I get out of bed. Then can I walk with out my sticks.
Or is it going to be a wheel day. Everybody just keep doing what you are happy with. Happy drop link changing P.S the best way is have someone else you trust do the job. I say this after having just having done all 4 last month. I admit I am now to old. Alan Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk |
25th May 2021, 19:15 | #129 | |
This is my second home
MG ZT CDTi Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: carrick
Posts: 7,859
Thanks: 3,494
Thanked 2,657 Times in 1,973 Posts
|
Quote:
Design and construction engineers do their job, they are paid to make things as efficient and as inexpensive to manufacture. They are even thinking of the poor bloke who has to remove it, by designing dealer only tools and handbooks etc (RAVE and T4 in our case), they are even thinking also of the even poorer bloke who has to pay for the removal to the dealer lol.. I do get your point though, as we live in a disposable and convenience society, maintenance is no longer considered a saturday afternoon practice. Even checking tyre pressures is now considered 'not my job'.
__________________
It is not gloss primer .............. it is duct tape silver! |
|
25th May 2021, 19:39 | #130 | |
Gets stuck in
75 Tourer Automatic conn, 75 Saloon Automatic Conn, The Monograme Spice Tourer Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Johnstone
Posts: 670
Thanks: 57
Thanked 231 Times in 151 Posts
|
Quote:
Puzzled I am! Just did the Spice tourers back, Front, and brakes, the only thing needing done was one front bottom wishbone the rest was because I had most parts in stock. And if I haven’t done it when I did. I probably would need to put it into a garage when the parts failed, getting to old and frail. Don’t tell the wife I admitted it. All the bolts for the rear subframe and top and bottom arms including the rear trailing arm and back plate bolts cost me less than £25 fifteen of that was the 4 subframe bolts to body. When these things become a total pain is when you have to cut out sections of floor, fabricate new ones and weld the sections in exactly the right place. I am tempted to say bring back real cars where you have a chassis and everything mounts on to its own little outrigger. Take your point about them thinking about the service engineer. But wouldn’t you love to get your own back. Just once? Alan Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk |
|
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|