Rear wheel arch liner removal - stud spinning

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Here's the wheel arch with all 8 studs drilled out and waiting for the rivet nuts.



Actually, I was wrong earlier and Kwil was right- some of those studs do go through to the boot, two on the arch itself (low down) and one in an open box-frame section just in front of the arch (you have to get into the boot to see it).

A third one goes through to the cabin, it appears under the seat side bolster piece.

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Originally Posted by bl52krz

..... I bought some expanding foam in a can, and sprayed it from the inside of the tube until it came out in the wheel arch. I then levelled it off and sealed it with under seal.

Yes, I mentioned expanding foam earlier (see post 17) - it's the only way I can think of.

Where did you spray the foam from? Did you just stick the nozzle down the tube from the wheel arch end and squirt?

My tube goes straight through the arch, turns 90 degrees ish and disappears - I can't find the other end, either from inside or outside the car. Where the hell does it go?

[Arctic]

Originally Posted by Blink

Yes, I mentioned expanding foam earlier (see post 17) - it's the only way I can think of.

Where did you spray the foam from? Did you just stick the nozzle down the tube from the wheel arch end and squirt?

My tube goes straight through the arch, turns 90 degrees ish and disappears

go?

Hi Simon.
it should go into the fuel tank if you lift the inspection hatch you will see the wires etc.

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Originally Posted by Arctic

Hi Simon.
it should go into the fuel tank if you lift the inspection hatch you will see the wires etc.

Hi Steve,

I thought the tube had two visible open ends - one in the wheel arch (which we see in the above pic) and the other inside or underneath the car (which I don't see at all). So where is the other open end? The tube can't open directly into the fuel tank, can it?

If I squirted foam into the tube from the wheel arch end, where would it stop?

[Arctic]

HI Simon.
I am not 100% but I think the other open end is just under the seat floor if you look at the photo I added above you can just make out the plastic conduit with which the wires would be in, best plan would be to lift the fuel pump access plate and take a quick look

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Originally Posted by Arctic

HI Simon.
I am not 100% but I think the other open end is just under the seat floor if you look at the photo I added above you can just make out the plastic conduit with which the wires would be in, best plan would be to lift the fuel pump access plate and take a quick look

Ok, I'll whip the plate off and have a look.

Meanwhile, I've drilled out the 8 offending rusty studs and have ended up with 8 holes that are almost perfect for M5 rivet nuts. But the flange on an M5 bolt isn't really big enough to cover the pre-cut holes in the liner - it would need a washer to do it.

The flange on an M8 bolt however is big enough to cover the holes without adding a washer. So I'm not sure whether to stick with M5 and use washers - or enlarge the holes to M8. What do you think?

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PS. As far as I can tell, the hole size for an M8 rivet nut needs to be 11mm (actual diameter of the rivet nut is 10.93mm)

[Arctic]

Hi Simon
Stick with your M5 rivet nuts, and M5 bolt but use a 3/4 rubber tap washer on the bolt I find these better as they grip the wheel arch liner better I have used them on my FL2, if and when I had to the job you are doing inside the wheel arch I would use them there as well, they can be bought from any Wilko shop or B&Q plumbing place.

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Originally Posted by Arctic

Hi Simon
Stick with your M5 rivet nuts, and M5 bolt but use a 3/4 rubber tap washer on the bolt I find these better as they grip the wheel arch liner better I have used them on my FL2, if and when I had to the job you are doing inside the wheel arch I would use them there as well, they can be bought from any Wilko shop or B&Q plumbing place.

Ok, will do Steve.

Btw, I whipped the fuel pump access plate off and found the 'other end' of the tube, just as you said. Re using expanded foam to seal the tube, I need to find a way of stopping it from going beyond the first 2 or 3 inches (in from the wheel arch end) otherwise it'll be a nightmare if those fuel wires/pipes ever need replacing. I've used Soudal foam before and it sets like rock - it would be impossible to get it out of the tube because of that 90 degree turn, hence the wires/pipes would effectively be concreted in (and the tube permanently blocked).

[Arctic]

Originally Posted by Blink

Ok, will do Steve.

Btw, I whipped the fuel pump access plate off and found the 'other end' of the tube, just as you said. Re using expanded foam to seal the tube, I need to find a way of stopping it from going beyond the first 2 or 3 inches (in from the wheel arch end) otherwise it'll be a nightmare if those fuel wires/pipes ever need replacing. I've used Soudal foam

Personally I would just use clear silicone round the wheel arch wire/conduit entrance highlighted in the photo below with orange circles.

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