Crankshaft pulley removal-made easy!!

[COLVERT]

Using the OP's method I understood that putting all that strain through the crankshaft itself was not advised.---

[rustymotor]

Originally Posted by COLVERT

Using the OP's method I understood that putting all that strain through the crankshaft itself was not advised.---

I'm not a mechanic but would agree with you there, some folk take their cars to a local garage and have them slack it off with a windy gun and nip it back to make it easier. Have heard cases of the bolts shearing.

[Don.Hasi]

Is it necessary to block the engine when the new pulley will be mounted?

I cant figure out whether the block of the flywheel is just for the heavy amount of force needed to get the old one off or if it is necessary both ways?

Thanks in advance

Don

[planenut]

(sorry for what may be a hijack)

Again, my query would be in relation to tightening.......if one uses an air wrench to remove, or just break the grip, how does one ensure you can tighten to 151ft/lb torque?

[Andy_with_a_screwdriver]

Originally Posted by Don.Hasi

Is it necessary to block the engine when the new pulley will be mounted?

I cant figure out whether the block of the flywheel is just for the heavy amount of force needed to get the old one off or if it is necessary both ways?

Thanks in advance

Don

I would say it needs locking both ways.

Originally Posted by planenut

(sorry for what may be a hijack)

Again, my query would be in relation to tightening.......if one uses an air wrench to remove, or just break the grip, how does one ensure you can tighten to 151ft/lb torque?

A Torque wrench and then some sort of angle measurer.



I've just tried this myself and had to give up, it was just too tight. I've popped it into the garage to be changed. I'm collecting tomorrow (see thread https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...d.php?t=292950) hopefully about £70 for labour only.

According to Haynes and/or RAVE the tightening sequence is 100 N/m plus 60 degrees plus 60
degrees plus another 30 degrees. In other words 100 N/m then another 150 degrees of a turn or very ****** tight.

Seeing as the whole engine turned easily when the crankshaft bolt is turned I would assume it needs to be locked both ways. as it'll never be tightened sufficiently. Ideally from experieince the car needs to be high enough on ramps, to have the locking tool and a long breaker bar pointing downwards as this is where there is enough room to rotate the tools.

[T16]

The OP is correct, if you are using an extension, then you must make sure its at least 3/4" or 1", or as he has done a massive pipe.

Using the castellated pulley tool is the ONLY legitimate way to do the job IMO, the high levels of torque are therefore not transferred as much through the crank. Locking the flywheel is not the way I would do it.

Having springy extensions and springy breaker bars just makes the job an utter pain. I was bouncing on 5ft of Scaffold near the rear of the car to get one off before, and I had the exentension resting on an axle stand, wrapped in towels in case the joint decided to shatter.

Don't waste your time with this stuff, get some 1" drive breaker bars/socket/extension, or do what the OP did if you have a welder.

In this day and age with the internet and deliveries, you can have all you need in terms of tools for under £150 (except for the castellated pulley tool)

There is a 40" 1" drive breaker on Amazon rated at 1800ft/lbs :p Thats the sort of peace of mind you need for this job.

Furthermore, NO-ONE in there RIGHT MIND should purchase ANY other pulley except for the Corteco, this was the OE Fitment to the MGRover and BMW M47 engines, and some sellers would actually supply pulleys with the BMW letters rubbed off for legal reasons.

The post above is why you should ONLY use the Castelleted tool for the pulley!

[COLVERT]

Originally Posted by T16

The OP is correct, if you are using an extension, then you must make sure its at least 3/4" or 1", or as he has done a massive pipe.

Using the castellated pulley tool is the ONLY legitimate way to do the job IMO, the high levels of torque are therefore not transferred as much through the crank. Locking the flywheel is not the way I would do it.

Having springy extensions and springy breaker bars just makes the job an utter pain. I was bouncing on 5ft of Scaffold near the rear of the car to get one off before, and I had the exentension resting on an axle stand, wrapped in towels in case the joint decided to shatter.

Don't waste your time with this stuff, get some 1" drive breaker bars/socket/extension, or do what the OP did if you have a welder.

In this day and age with the internet and deliveries, you can have all you need in terms of tools for under £150 (except for the castellated pulley tool)

There is a 40" 1" drive breaker on Amazon rated at 1800ft/lbs :p Thats the sort of peace of mind you need for this job.

Furthermore, NO-ONE in there RIGHT MIND should purchase ANY other pulley except for the Corteco, this was the OE Fitment to the MGRover and BMW M47 engines, and some sellers would actually supply pulleys with the BMW letters rubbed off for legal reasons.

The post above is why you should ONLY use the Castelleted tool for the pulley!

All the above correct and safe.

You should never put this high type of shock through the crankshaft whether by locking the flywheel or using the starter motor.

Could be very,very expensive if the crank breaks.---

[TeeCee]

When I did mine I just stuck the 'leccy impact gun on it and held the trigger until it came undone (about 30 seconds).
Reversed that for reassembly and its still there five years on.

[COLVERT]

Originally Posted by TeeCee

When I did mine I just stuck the 'leccy impact gun on it and held the trigger until it came undone (about 30 seconds).
Reversed that for reassembly and its still there five years on.

But you didn't say if you used the correct locking tool or not.---

[Rover 75 Tourer]

I used 3/4 inch buzz gun and nothing else worked fine both on and off. Not the purists way but works