My rear seat back won't secure

Boltonboy · 21st November 2020, 19:44

My rear seat back won't secure on one side any ideas the part also where it slots in at the bottom keeps coming out

LeRich · 21st November 2020, 20:00

I assume the car is a saloon as the latch mechanism on saloon rear seats is rubbish. Within the seat back are metal bars that engage with the latch to lock the seat in place and are release when the shoulder buttons are pushed down.

The bars often misalign so won't engage with the latch, instead blocking the seat back from pushing all the way back into their upright position.

If you drop the seat back forward you will see the bars - give them a tweak to see if they move.

Boltonboy · 21st November 2020, 20:14

Thank you mate will try it

suzublu · 21st November 2020, 20:20

The how to forum has all the answers you need 😎 can't do a link as I'm on the phone 😉

Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk

edwardmk · 21st November 2020, 20:27

I had a proper struggle with my saloon rear seat. The latches were mis-aligned and in trying to 'persuade' them to work, one side got jammed. When I finally got everything released, I noticed some white plastic had disintegrated on the lower rear pivot joints where the backrest hinges on the floor pan. This meant in my case the backrest had dropped just enough to throw it out. I honestly can't remember what I did to fix it, but it took some time and patience. On the odd rare occasion when I need to drop the backrest, I take particular care to baby the mechanism

Synchromesh · 22nd November 2020, 17:02

To release the seat back you pull on the two pieces of black webbing the ends of which are lying in the gap between the seat back and the squab. The pieces of webbing should move unhindered to allow the wire loops at each side of the seat back to spring up to lock the seat back in position. The wire loops perform two functions. They engage with the plastic covered metal hooks on the bulkhead and they act as springs. The wire loops sit in groves in the plastic housing so the wire is twisted like a torsion bar. On my 75 the wire loop had come out of the grove in the plastic housing so it was not springing back. I drilled out the pop rivets to remove the plastic housing. Relocated the wire loop into the groove then refitted the plastic housing with nuts and bolts. However if your wire loop(s) is not springing back it is not necessary to drill out the pop rivets when you know that the wire loop sits in a groove. You should be able to push it back into the groove with pliers. I still found it difficult to get the seat back to lock into position so I sprayed the hooks on the bulkhead with silicone lubricant. The hooks are tapered implying that you can just slam the seat back against them and they will deflect the wire loop but I found that not to be the case. I pulled on the black webbing to keep the wire loops down, pushed the seat back against the bulkhead then released the black webbing. After several attempts they both locked.

21st November 2020, 19:44	#1
Boltonboy Avid contributor Rover 75 classic se cdti\ mg zt 120 /rover 75 club 1.8 Join Date: Aug 2020 Location: Bolton Posts: 166 Thanks: 85 Thanked 13 Times in 10 Posts	My rear seat back won't secure My rear seat back won't secure on one side any ideas the part also where it slots in at the bottom keeps coming out

21st November 2020, 20:00	#2
LeRich Posted a thing or two Rover 75 Cont SE 1.8T Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Cheshire Posts: 1,082 Thanks: 215 Thanked 232 Times in 178 Posts	I assume the car is a saloon as the latch mechanism on saloon rear seats is rubbish. Within the seat back are metal bars that engage with the latch to lock the seat in place and are release when the shoulder buttons are pushed down. The bars often misalign so won't engage with the latch, instead blocking the seat back from pushing all the way back into their upright position. If you drop the seat back forward you will see the bars - give them a tweak to see if they move. __________________ Rover 75 1.8T Contemporary SE Auto Starlight Silver MBB

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21st November 2020, 20:14	#3
Boltonboy Avid contributor Rover 75 classic se cdti\ mg zt 120 /rover 75 club 1.8 Join Date: Aug 2020 Location: Bolton Posts: 166 Thanks: 85 Thanked 13 Times in 10 Posts	Thank you mate will try it

21st November 2020, 20:20	#4
suzublu This is my second home rover 75 1.8 vvc club se wedgwood blue Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Seaton Carew Posts: 26,906 Thanks: 65 Thanked 7,142 Times in 4,642 Posts	The how to forum has all the answers you need 😎 can't do a link as I'm on the phone 😉 Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk

21st November 2020, 20:27	#5
edwardmk Gets stuck in MG ZT 260, Rover 75 Connie SE auto Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Redruth Posts: 984 Thanks: 1,324 Thanked 399 Times in 271 Posts	I had a proper struggle with my saloon rear seat. The latches were mis-aligned and in trying to 'persuade' them to work, one side got jammed. When I finally got everything released, I noticed some white plastic had disintegrated on the lower rear pivot joints where the backrest hinges on the floor pan. This meant in my case the backrest had dropped just enough to throw it out. I honestly can't remember what I did to fix it, but it took some time and patience. On the odd rare occasion when I need to drop the backrest, I take particular care to baby the mechanism

22nd November 2020, 17:02	#6
Synchromesh Gets stuck in Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Preston Posts: 624 Thanks: 50 Thanked 44 Times in 32 Posts	To release the seat back you pull on the two pieces of black webbing the ends of which are lying in the gap between the seat back and the squab. The pieces of webbing should move unhindered to allow the wire loops at each side of the seat back to spring up to lock the seat back in position. The wire loops perform two functions. They engage with the plastic covered metal hooks on the bulkhead and they act as springs. The wire loops sit in groves in the plastic housing so the wire is twisted like a torsion bar. On my 75 the wire loop had come out of the grove in the plastic housing so it was not springing back. I drilled out the pop rivets to remove the plastic housing. Relocated the wire loop into the groove then refitted the plastic housing with nuts and bolts. However if your wire loop(s) is not springing back it is not necessary to drill out the pop rivets when you know that the wire loop sits in a groove. You should be able to push it back into the groove with pliers. I still found it difficult to get the seat back to lock into position so I sprayed the hooks on the bulkhead with silicone lubricant. The hooks are tapered implying that you can just slam the seat back against them and they will deflect the wire loop but I found that not to be the case. I pulled on the black webbing to keep the wire loops down, pushed the seat back against the bulkhead then released the black webbing. After several attempts they both locked.