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Old 4th June 2020, 18:00   #21
Arctic
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All that is needed is a 3mm hole through the body of the splitter box and a cable tie to pull it together enough to stop it from spreading open, thus stopping the cable clip from pulling through.

1

On the car its self.
2

3

The other two cable ties are if it did ever pull through or one of the cable snapped I could remove the wheel arch section grab the cable ties and pull the outer bonnet cable through for access.

4

The black block needs to be able to move freely inside the box.

In the past I have cut a little section out for the cable tie to hold the clip in tight.
5

Also what Sonic as suggested above was thought to be a good idea, that is until you need to remove the black splitter box from within the wheel arch, you cant because of the cable tie going through the inner body wing.
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Last edited by Arctic; 5th June 2020 at 08:56.. Reason: Photo Editing
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Old 5th June 2020, 11:21   #22
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The easiest way of preventing the cables from pulling out of their slots are a couple of simple jobs.

Remove clean and grease the cable boxes, and oil the cable ends.

The easiest and definitely the least intrusive aesthetically modification, is to wind on a few turns of insulating tape onto the outer ferrule of the single cable until it is at such a diameter that any movement is transferred to the car body, rather than relying on it's retention by the keyhole slot in the plastic housing.

In addition to turning the shuttle so the open cable slots face the opposite way, but refraining from the temptation to secure the box to the inner wing with a cable tie, job done

Before closing the bonnet, have an assistant operate the bonnet pull, and ensure the striker plates in the latches move smoothly and cleanly before closing the bonnet.

I agree with the reinvention of the wheel being put on hold for the moment though

Brian
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Old 5th June 2020, 12:16   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marinabrian View Post
The easiest way of preventing the cables from pulling out of their slots are a couple of simple jobs.

Remove clean and grease the cable boxes, and oil the cable ends.

The easiest and definitely the least intrusive aesthetically modification, is to wind on a few turns of insulating tape onto the outer ferrule of the single cable until it is at such a diameter that any movement is transferred to the car body, rather than relying on it's retention by the keyhole slot in the plastic housing.

In addition to turning the shuttle so the open cable slots face the opposite way, but refraining from the temptation to secure the box to the inner wing with a cable tie, job done

Quote:
Before closing the bonnet, have an assistant operate the bonnet pull, and ensure the striker plates in the latches move smoothly and cleanly before closing the bonnet.

I agree with the reinvention of the wheel being put on hold for the moment though

Brian
Hi Brian.
Unless you have arms like an Orangutan and can reach from the front of the car

https://youtu.be/PlTKzqU1gzw
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Old 5th June 2020, 12:22   #24
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Originally Posted by suzublu View Post
Don't forget after ppd, the plastic used for these boxes was a lot thinner(and cheaper) than the early ones.

Hadn’t noticed that Ronnie, will have to look into that one...
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Old 5th June 2020, 17:27   #25
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My ZT apparently had a bonnet latch failure prior to my ownership if the remaining damage is any indication. Seems they used a Sawzall (Jab saw I think to you brits) to cut the catch pins off, leaving saw marks on the bonnet, grille and slam panel.
I have serviced the box and done the zip tie mod but think I will get one of the boxes being discussed to check out. I have used some of the seller's parts and have been impressed and for the price it should be worth a good look.
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Old 5th June 2020, 18:43   #26
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Id be interested in trying one and if decent and reasonably priced I would fit to all my cars.
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Old 6th June 2020, 10:05   #27
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Originally Posted by mark-h View Post
Id be interested in trying one and if decent and reasonably priced I would fit to all my cars.
I've got one and it's a lot tougher than the original. Look how thick the end walls are.





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Old 6th June 2020, 11:38   #28
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Quote:
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I've got one and it's a lot tougher than the original. Look how thick the end walls are.





Hi Simon.
Thank you for the photos, what is to stop the main cable end from pulling out of the box should the plates gets stuck etc.

It looks as though they only push into the box whereas the original box allows them to clip in.

Have you tried to fit it yet and pull on the front cable to see if it comes free from the box?
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Old 6th June 2020, 13:01   #29
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I haven't fitted it yet Steve but I think the answer is nothing - i.e. the 3 white nylon ends don't clip into the housing. Does it matter anyway - if one of more of the cables comes out of the shuttle block everything fails either way.

EDIT: blue text in above para is inaccurate - see post 30.


Iirc, the MGR housing is fairly bendable. Jack's one is extremely rigid - I can't compress it at all lengthways (by hand), or stretch it.

https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID001773





Last edited by Blink; 7th June 2020 at 11:30.. Reason: Info correction
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Old 7th June 2020, 11:17   #30
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More info Steve. I've just got the instruction sheet from Jack (I forgot it before!) and it says the sockets are tapered so the white ferrules are locked in position. Here's a ferrule pic (from Rimmers).



So I think the tapered holes will stop the single cable being pulled through the end wall of the box by the shuttle block. Also, the thickness of the end walls/tapered holes means that the cables are held firmly in line, which should eliminate the risk of them popping out of the shuttle block during operation.

I've borrowed this pic from Jack's guide.



A comparison pic of the flimsier MGR box is at post 9 here.
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