Flywheel Locking

[Frogmella]

I need to do my first cambelt change (on any car).



I know I can loosen the crankbolt using a breaker bar and cranking the engine but I really don't like the sound of that so I intend to get a flywheel locking tool. ( I have enough Ebay nectar points to get a Draper one for free).


I believe the procedure is: Remove the starter motor, position and bolt the flywheel lock on to the mounting holes provided (I haven't looked, there ARE threading mounting holes?).


Questions.
1.) What size bolts will I need at hand to secure the lock?
2.) Anything else I need to know?
3.) Any special points to note on an automatic?


Thanks in advance as always.

[marinabrian]

Originally Posted by Frogmella

I need to do my first cambelt change (on any car).



I know I can loosen the crankbolt using a breaker bar and cranking the engine but I really don't like the sound of that so I intend to get a flywheel locking tool. ( I have enough Ebay nectar points to get a Draper one for free).


I believe the procedure is: Remove the starter motor, position and bolt the flywheel lock on to the mounting holes provided (I haven't looked, there ARE threading mounting holes?).


Questions.
1.) What size bolts will I need at hand to secure the lock?
2.) Anything else I need to know?
3.) Any special points to note on an automatic?


Thanks in advance as always.

You are considering one like this perhaps?

LINK

The starter is secured with M12 bolts, so machine screws of M12 are required to secure the locking tool.

Have fun

Brian

[COLVERT]

There's a special spanner that locks the crank at the flywheel ( Damper. ) end so no force is put on the crankshaft at all.

Don't end up doing any sort of damage to the crankshaft as it is NOT designed to take you on the end of your breaker bar.----

[COLVERT]

PS. Cranking the engine--


No--No--No.--- Now go stand in the corner.

[marinabrian]

John, the OP has an 1800 not a stone crusher, the diesel crank locking tool won't fit

Brian

[COLVERT]

Originally Posted by marinabrian

John, the OP has an 1800 not a stone crusher, the diesel crank locking tool won't fit

Brian

Damn it. That will teach me to read all of the info. Still it might help someone.---

[Frogmella]

Originally Posted by marinabrian

You are considering one like this perhaps?

LINK

The starter is secured with M12 bolts, so machine screws of M12 are required to secure the locking tool.

Have fun

Brian

Not that one Brian, it doesn't fit the 75, Laser 4522 is for the 75.

[marinabrian]

Originally Posted by Frogmella

Not that one Brian, it doesn't fit the 75, Laser 4522 is for the 75.

I used the 12-70 locking tool today on the Freelander, fitted a treat.

Despite one of the engine mounting bolts being seized, the whole job took me two hours from start to finish.

There is less room to work on the 75, but it's not difficult take your time it's not a race.

Have fun

Brian

[T-Cut]

Originally Posted by Frogmella

1.) What size bolts will I need at hand to secure the lock?

I use the bolts that hold the starter motor

EDITs:
To slacken the crank bolt I used a cheap mains impact gun. It simply spun it out easier than I could have wished for.

To torque up the bolt afterwards, I got hold of a 600mm long half inch drive extension (good quality essential) to take the impact socket, a stout log and a metre length of steel pipe (torque wrench extension). If you were doing this every week you'd have a heavier wrench.





I stabilised the driver bar with some right angle plastic brackets. No shimmy or shifting and provided perfect support. A 200ftlb-plus job needs a bit of prepping.



TC

[marinabrian]

Originally Posted by T-Cut

I use the bolts that hold the starter motor

EDITs:
To slacken the crank bolt I used a cheap mains impact gun. It simply spun it out easier than I could have wished for.

To torque up the bolt afterwards, I got hold of a 600mm long half inch drive extension (good quality essential) to take the impact socket, a stout log and a metre length of steel pipe (torque wrench extension). If you were doing this every week you'd have a heavier wrench.





I stabilised the driver bar with some right angle plastic brackets. No shimmy or shifting and provided perfect support. A 200ftlb-plus job needs a bit of prepping.



TC

151 ft/lb just in case the OP is wondering, or 205 NM

Brian