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9th November 2018, 14:58 | #11 |
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10th November 2018, 00:36 | #12 |
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Bracket can be fabricated from a PC blank photo's below
1 2 3 4 Drill 2.5 hole for a self tapper drill 3mm deep only 5
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10th November 2018, 07:53 | #13 |
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Nice fix...
That is a ingenious fix. My ‘plate’ had rusted off just at the bottom so I had a decent face to drill a hole into and then I deburred the hole and used a decent cable tie. I did think about drilling but was unsure what if any weakness I may add into this seemingly structural member.... I like the use of the PC Card blank, very smart.
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23rd August 2019, 11:24 | #14 |
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Just in case someone else has this issue ...
I have just had to fix my front Xenon level bracket as the weld failed between the rusty steel bracket and the aluminum arm (and slot it fits into).
I was going to go down the excellent solution by Steve (Arctic) above, but thought I would try glue first. I found an epoxy glue - "GorillaWeld titanium bond epoxy" - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/332453011170 I needed to free the arm as it had seized on one ball joint (probably why it broke what was left of the weld?). Used WD40 and some persuasion then cleaned up the rust, greased it back up and now moving freely. I cleaned up the arm so it was degreased as much as possible. I used a file to remove surface flakes from the steel bracket and the weld material. You simply squeeze equal parts of the resin and hardener on to a disposable surface and using a disposable spatula mix the 2 for 30 seconds then applied it the back of the steel bracket and in 10 - 30 minutes it will set. Full cure is 24 hours. https://photos.app.goo.gl/akcWYaiiCmonEqfw5 First photo - The drive shaft rubber damper made a purpose built rest, whilst it set. Second photo - End result - all back together. Have gone for a drive and job is a good 'un and holding firm. Last edited by first-things-first; 23rd August 2019 at 11:54.. Reason: Added photos. |
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