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Old 14th July 2019, 21:46   #11
HarryM1BYT
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75 Contemporary SE Mk II 2004 Man. Sal. CDTi 135ps, FBH on red diesel, WinCE6 DD

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Originally Posted by bendrick View Post

The problem of poor and dangerous installation work by untrained or increasingly very poorly trained 'competent persons' is huge, aided and abetted by successive governments constant dropping of standards in this country in order that politicians can boast that they have trained up x amount of engineers and all is well.

The lowering of standards is true unfortunately, in so many once proud UK industries.



We are turning out 'engineers' where standards are lowered so disinterested people can manage a qualification, with corrupt companies helping these people to pass the basic requirements.



I am glad to be out of it now, increasing poor standards were causing me a lot of stress.



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How To's and items I offer for free, or just to cover the cost of my expenses...

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...40#post1764540

Fix a poor handbrake; DIY ABS diagnostic unit; Loan of the spanner needed to change the CDT belts; free OBD diagnostics +MAF; Correct Bosch MAF cheap; DVB-T install in an ex-hi-line system; DD install with a HK amp; FBH servicing.

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Old 15th July 2019, 18:23   #12
madeupname
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Rover 75 Connie Mk2 1.8 (Mo)

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I'm planning on replacing the kitchen floor, which will also involve putting a bed of concrete over the soil/rubble, followed by a damp proof membrane, then the new floor.
I didn't like electric cookers so got a nice gas oven from a workmate. Then had a proper fitter put it in.
I was thinking that because it has a flexible hose it would be easy to disconnect, move out of the kitchen, do the work, reconnect and carry on as normal.
I am so gratefui to Bendrick for the very important information you have shared with us.
I now need to update my plans
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Old 15th July 2019, 20:52   #13
bendrick
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I really don't mean to alarm anyone on the cooker bayonet front they were a huge improvment on the old lead and copper pipe rigid connections and 99.9% of the time seal fine and they re designed for easy disconnection and reconnection by non professionals in exactly the scenario that you are talking about.

In the unlikely event that it doesnt quite seal off as you are living in the house no doubt you would smell any gas.

You can also get a drop of diluted fairy liquid in a cup and look up under the bayonet connection and dab some soapy water on the sealing brass plate to check if you're not too sure.

The very occasional problem is that the spring snaps the chamfered sealing plate shut slightly off centre once in a blue moon and it usually just takes a push up once or twice with your fingers to snap it shut in the correct position if it is slightyly passing.


Same with the cooker hose. Many customers get angry when an engineer insists on using and charging for a new cooker hose instead of taking the old hose off an existing cooker when a customer buys a new cooker. The reason is that over time as explained above, the line where the rubber goes into the brass collar on either end of the hose can sometimes start to leak.

I do strongly emphasis that these occurances are really in the very minority of cases and i only mention it because dealing with thousands of cases I and other engineers would have come across these scenarios many times simply because of the volume of bayonets and cooker hoses that we have worked on over the years.


Householders do not need to panic or assume that their connections are or will be faulty if disconnected virtually all of them will be fine.

If in doubt call an engineer.


Oh by the way, the worst ones for leaking are the awkward rigid connections on gas cooker hobs. The connections are so awkward tucked away in the corner recess of the hob that they are are a swine to tighten up and there's loads of leaks found on those connections.

Last edited by bendrick; 15th July 2019 at 20:57..
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Old 15th July 2019, 20:58   #14
madeupname
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Ah, ok thanks. I know about the 'no bubbles, no troubles' mantra.
But from what you had put it seemed like the likelihood of a poor reconnection was high.
Either way, it's not worth messing about with. I can get in touch with a few gas safe registered people. Better to be safe than sorry.
Thanks again.
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Mo was born Tuesday, 22nd June 2004 @ 08:32:41
This vehicle was the 99,307th 75 to run off the production line, out of 112,381
This vehicle was the 5,377th 75 1.8 Connoisseur to be made out of 6,033
This vehicle was the 783rd 75 in Firefrost Red (code: CEV) to be made out of 2,089 Firefrost Red 75s
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Old 16th July 2019, 07:38   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roverbarmy View Post
Don't get me started on "Gas safe"! I'm in the middle of a situation with a condemned boiler, caused (in my opinion) by faulty fitting of parts during a fan installation. Can't comment further as yet due to "investigations" by the company (who shall, at the moment, remain un-named).
Here you can find something like this: https://www.allicdata.com/
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Old 16th July 2019, 15:44   #16
HarryM1BYT
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75 Contemporary SE Mk II 2004 Man. Sal. CDTi 135ps, FBH on red diesel, WinCE6 DD

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Quote:
Originally Posted by bendrick View Post

Householders do not need to panic or assume that their connections are or will be faulty if disconnected virtually all of them will be fine.

If in doubt call an engineer.

Oh by the way, the worst ones for leaking are the awkward rigid connections on gas cooker hobs. The connections are so awkward tucked away in the corner recess of the hob that they are are a swine to tighten up and there's loads of leaks found on those connections.

I do a regular and rough pressure drop test on my caravan and home. Turn everything off, then isolate the gas then leave it isolated for a few hours without turning anything on. When you reopen the isolating valve slowly listen carefully, there should be no hiss. The hiss indicates that pressure has been lost so there is some leak on the system somewhere.



It is not a replacement for a qualified gas engineer, but is a check which can be made quickly and easily.






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Harry

How To's and items I offer for free, or just to cover the cost of my expenses...

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...40#post1764540

Fix a poor handbrake; DIY ABS diagnostic unit; Loan of the spanner needed to change the CDT belts; free OBD diagnostics +MAF; Correct Bosch MAF cheap; DVB-T install in an ex-hi-line system; DD install with a HK amp; FBH servicing.

I've taken a vow of poverty. To annoy me, send money.

Last edited by HarryM1BYT; 16th July 2019 at 15:47..
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Old 17th July 2019, 12:56   #17
cb750chris
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Just to add an alternative to Harrys rough pressure drop test, for my caravan I tend to do something similar, I pressurise the pipes (enable the bottle), then isolate the bottle valve and leave for a few hours.
But then instead of trying to hear a hiss as the system is re-pressured, I turn on a hob burner, and check pressure is left in the system - normally after 2 or 3 hours.
The reason being that I can't always hear the hiss as the bottle fills the pipes, but I can hear the gas "escape" when turning a hob on (I prefer to hear a positive "pass", rather than possibly missing a failure)
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Now offering T4 services in the Fareham area

Replacement keys programmed / supplied / cut

Diesel 135 upgrade available

IPK virginisation and T4 matching available

Sorry, due to a big change in home circumstances, I am unable to do any large jobs at present, but can still offer evening time diagnostics.
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Old 19th July 2019, 18:21   #18
daveb57
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Hi Chris.

I live around the area and can recommend a guy I have used for some considerable time.

Tom fitted us a new combi boiler last August, superb job done and he is obviously registered with all relevant paperwork etc. Clean efficient and tidy, not able to prise his work enough.

www.tomkplumbingandheating.co.uk will get you to him.

Regards,

Dave.
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