Correct Oil for R75 CDTi Auto 2004 ?

[PerciUrwin]

Lots of conflicting opinions on what's what.....the Manual says 10w40 ACEA A3 B3 but doesn't specify any manufacturer NOR whether or not the Oil should be Part or Full Synthetic .

Please somebody help me ...Aaaaargh !

[suffolk boy]

as long as it meets the specs it will be fine .later cars did carry a mobil sticker as the prefered choice.just buy some half decent stuff fully synth or part and it will be fine.me i run mine on 5/30 fully synth and its great

[Arctic]

[QUOTE]

Originally Posted by PerciUrwin

Lots of conflicting opinions on what's what.....the Manual says 10w40 ACEA A3 B3 but doesn't specify any manufacturer NOR whether or not the Oil should be Part or Full Synthetic .

Please somebody help me ...Aaaaargh ![/QUOTE

]

Hi John.
This will do you fine buy two and you will have some for topping up, or for the next time you change your oil. you need 6.8 litre =12 pints. aim for 6.5 litre when refilling keep oil just below max mark
https://www.carparts4less.co.uk/cp4l...6011&0&cc5_245

[PerciUrwin]

Thanks so much.
Really appreciate the nod.

Best Rgds,

John Urwin kk 'PerciUrwin'

[Avulon]

[QUOTE=Arctic;2627016]

]

Hi John.
This will do you fine buy two and you will have some for topping up, or for the next time you change your oil. you need 6.8 litre =12 pints. aim for 6.5 litre when refilling keep oil just below max mark
https://www.carparts4less.co.uk/cp4l...6011&0&cc5_245

I expect the is to indicate that you're not serious about topping up to the max mark? Remember this is a diesel being talked about. Not that you want to fill a kv6 up past half-way either I believe from reading the forum all these years.

I never have filled any vehicle up to the max mark with engine oil .. ever. Always aim for the mid-point. This allows for the engine not being stone cold (sometimes can't be helped that it's a bit warm), also allows for being not quite level - some engines hardly change some are so far off to the side for the dipstick that a rizla under one tyre is enough to make it go from max to min. With the level in the middle of the range it's easy for regular checks to see if it's going down OR up.

[Sprinter]

[QUOTE=Arctic;2627016]

]

Hi John.
This will do you fine buy two and you will have some for topping up, or for the next time you change your oil. you need 6.8 litre =12 pints. aim for 6.5 litre when refilling keep oil just below max mark
https://www.carparts4less.co.uk/cp4l...6011&0&cc5_245

That's what I've been running mine on for the past 6 years.

Always remember to double dip the dipstick to get an accurate reading.

[alanaslan]

Originally Posted by PerciUrwin

Lots of conflicting opinions on what's what.....the Manual says 10w40 ACEA A3 B3 but doesn't specify any manufacturer NOR whether or not the Oil should be Part or Full Synthetic .



Please somebody help me ...Aaaaargh !

Motor oils have come a long way I the past 50 years. For all cars built after 1984 I would recommend a fully synthetic oil.
For some years Rovers and MGs carried the use Mobile 1 badge. At this time Mobile 1 oil was a 0w30 fully synthetic oil. Today Mobile 1 is many things.
So at the time the book contradicts itself.
You should use the best motor oil you can afford fully synthetic is best and if like me you get cold winters then the lower the numbers the better. The numbers refer as to how thick the oil is when hot and when cold.
For fuel consumption you want your oil nice and thin so you are not wasting energy dragging engine parts through thick oil the same applies for starting the thinner the oil is when cold the Less cranking power required from the starter to turn the engine over.
Sadly it is all very confusing and your local garage won't be able to help as chances are they do not know what the numbers mean.
In the uk fully synthetic with low numbers is what you should be looking for to keep your engine in top condition. It is also a good idea to add a tin of slick 50 every 50,000 miles, it is an additive that will leave a coating of a lubricant on all surfaces long after the oil has run off back into the sump, a different kind of fluid technology to that of regular oils regardless of make up.
Remember even good oils wear out and become contaminated ideally running fully synthetic in a petrol engine, you should be changing your oil every 15,000 miles or every twelve months
In a Diesel car you should be changing your oil every 10,000 miles or every twelve months again with a fully synthetic oil.
If you are running regular mineral oil then half these figures. Semi synthetic being a mixture of mineral oil and synthetic oil you are looking at 2/3 ds the distance of a fully synthetic.
I am sorry if I have confused the issue further.
Alan


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[Mike Noc]

Funnily enough Rover themselves never used Mobil oil. The factory was supplied by Texaco.

I have changed my oil every 15k miles as recommended in the service schedule and use a good quality 10w-40 semi synthetic.

At 396k miles the engine is still running fine, and nothing that is lubricated by the oil has ever been changed.

[marinabrian]

Originally Posted by alanaslan

Motor oils have come a long way I the past 50 years. For all cars built after 1984 I would recommend a fully synthetic oil.
For some years Rovers and MGs carried the use Mobile 1 badge. At this time Mobile 1 oil was a 0w30 fully synthetic oil. Today Mobile 1 is many things.
So at the time the book contradicts itself.
You should use the best motor oil you can afford fully synthetic is best and if like me you get cold winters then the lower the numbers the better. The numbers refer as to how thick the oil is when hot and when cold.
For fuel consumption you want your oil nice and thin so you are not wasting energy dragging engine parts through thick oil the same applies for starting the thinner the oil is when cold the Less cranking power required from the starter to turn the engine over.
Sadly it is all very confusing and your local garage won't be able to help as chances are they do not know what the numbers mean.
In the uk fully synthetic with low numbers is what you should be looking for to keep your engine in top condition. It is also a good idea to add a tin of slick 50 every 50,000 miles, it is an additive that will leave a coating of a lubricant on all surfaces long after the oil has run off back into the sump, a different kind of fluid technology to that of regular oils regardless of make up.
Remember even good oils wear out and become contaminated ideally running fully synthetic in a petrol engine, you should be changing your oil every 15,000 miles or every twelve months
In a Diesel car you should be changing your oil every 10,000 miles or every twelve months again with a fully synthetic oil.
If you are running regular mineral oil then half these figures. Semi synthetic being a mixture of mineral oil and synthetic oil you are looking at 2/3 ds the distance of a fully synthetic.
I am sorry if I have confused the issue further.
Alan


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Fully synthetic oil is simply not required in a diesel, and any 10/40 semi synthetic diesel oil meeting the ACEA specs is fine for the diesel engine.

Additives similarly are not a requirement, however I change my oil and filter at 8000 miles/three months, using Chevron 10w/40 and a quality filter.

I buy in 20 litre packs from Costco, and the last one bought was circa £42 with the VAT



So with the engine good and hot after a run, drop the oil using the sump drain, then while it's draining and with the alternator covered, to prevent any stray drips entering the windings remove the oil filter, for which you'll need a 36mm socket.

The trick with the filter is to unscrew and lift slightly and wait a couple of minutes, this allows the oil to drain before lifting out the filter.

There will be a couple of O rings with the new filter, only the large one that fits the filter housing lid well........fits, and the sump plug washers are ALU1403

A complete oil and filter change takes 6.75 litres, and the money you save on unnecessary stuff can be invested in a service kit

Don't forget to replace the PCV filter while your hands are dirty

Put simply look after the oil, and the bearings will look after themselves, and I cover more miles than most

Have fun

Brian

[Mike Noc]

John you should have all the info you need now. If you are buying a 36mm socket for the filter housing then go for a surface drive to save damaging the housing if it is tight.

My car started off as a company vehicle but still has damage on the housing from someone using a 12 point socket, and no doubt the last mechanic over tightening it on the previous service. All work carried out at a main dealer.

If you have a torque wrench then tightening the housing to 24Nm will make it easier to remove next time round.