Clutch cost

[marinabrian]

Originally Posted by steve1975

Why would it last longer if the subframe was dropped to do it

Because if you remove the subframe, you can remove the gearbox from the car, allowing inspection and cleaning, along with easy fitting of the replacement slave cylinder, and if you drop the subframe at one side, you can only move the gearbox to one side meaning you......

1 cannot clean out the bellhousing of dirt and detritus
2 cannot check the input shaft sleeve and seal for wear, nor clean it
3 run the risk of damaging the body of the slave by stressing it where the pipework is connected
4 the clutch assembly cannot be seen during installation
5 the flywheel cannot be inspected for damage or wear satisfactorily

6 the opposite side subframe bolts are usually bent out of shape

Now bear in mind the slave is the usual culprit in clutch failure models in the 75 and ZT, why for the sake of a little extra work would you want to risk having to do the job again in short order

I've done the job both ways, and I would never again use the method where the subframe is dropped on one side only and not removed completely, it is nothing more than a shortcut employed by people who don't particularly care about what they are doing



Brian

[steve1975]

Originally Posted by marinabrian

Because if you remove the subframe, you can remove the gearbox from the car, allowing inspection and cleaning, along with easy fitting of the replacement slave cylinder, and if you drop the subframe at one side, you can only move the gearbox to one side meaning you......

1 cannot clean out the bellhousing of dirt and detritus
2 cannot check the input shaft sleeve and seal for wear, nor clean it
3 run the risk of damaging the body of the slave by stressing it where the pipework is connected
4 the clutch assembly cannot be seen during installation
5 the flywheel cannot be inspected for damage or wear satisfactorily

6 the opposite side subframe bolts are usually bent out of shape

Now bear in mind the slave is the usual culprit in clutch failure models in the 75 and ZT, why for the sake of a little extra work would you want to risk having to do the job again in short order

I've done the job both ways, and I would never again use the method where the subframe is dropped on one side only and not removed completely, it is nothing more than a shortcut employed by people who don't particularly care about what they are doing



Brian

But the box was completely removed from the car to do it,with the subframe still in place...so I'm lost as to what your point is lol

[marinabrian]

Originally Posted by steve1975

But the box was completely removed from the car to do it,with the subframe still in place...so I'm lost as to what your point is lol

I wonder how that was done then, as there is insufficient space to get the gearbox out with the subframe fitted, unless riving and tearing was employed

I do know of one operator in particular who bodges the job this way, and I've seen the results of his unique brand of "workmanship"

As I say I hope it works out for you, but there is evidence to the contrary that clashing a clutch into these cars in such a fashion, leads to premature failure of the hydraulic circuit......the forum is littered with such tales of woe

Brian

[FLYING BANANA]

Redfive had to have a new clutch along with the DMF. And the gear selector cables were very badly worn, the bushes and pins were non existent. The creaking on the near side was thought to be the top mounts, turns out that the drop link was seized, the drop link on the offside was totally knackered. And the front pads plus discs needed replacing.
Add the cost of the 14 hours labour.

Drives like a new car now, the clutch is ever so light, seems lighter than Banana’s.

[rab60bit]

Originally Posted by marinabrian

Because if you remove the subframe, you can remove the gearbox from the car, allowing inspection and cleaning, along with easy fitting of the replacement slave cylinder, and if you drop the subframe at one side, you can only move the gearbox to one side meaning you......

1 cannot clean out the bellhousing of dirt and detritus
2 cannot check the input shaft sleeve and seal for wear, nor clean it
3 run the risk of damaging the body of the slave by stressing it where the pipework is connected
4 the clutch assembly cannot be seen during installation
5 the flywheel cannot be inspected for damage or wear satisfactorily

6 the opposite side subframe bolts are usually bent out of shape

Now bear in mind the slave is the usual culprit in clutch failure models in the 75 and ZT, why for the sake of a little extra work would you want to risk having to do the job again in short order

I've done the job both ways, and I would never again use the method where the subframe is dropped on one side only and not removed completely, it is nothing more than a shortcut employed by people who don't particularly care about what they are doing



Brian

Would you consider all the above essential for a diesel but perhaps not for the V6. Do DMF's complicate the wear and tear aspects of related components like input shaft sleeve and seal.
Not tried but is the sub frame, especially original jobs 14 or so years in situ, a big addition on labour and extra parts.

[marinabrian]

Originally Posted by rab60bit

Would you consider all the above essential for a diesel but perhaps not for the V6. Do DMF's complicate the wear and tear aspects of related components like input shaft sleeve and seal.
Not tried but is the sub frame, especially original jobs 14 or so years in situ, a big addition on labour and extra parts.

Yes, it's just as essential to check all of the things on the V6 and 1800 as it is on the diesel.

None of the models irrespective of engine size, can the gearbox be removed without using copious amounts of brute force, unless the subframe is removed first.

To put it into context, it takes around an hour on a lift to remove the subframe, and a similar amount of time to reinstall, factor in the risk of damage caused by shortcuts and the amount of time and money spent in doing the job correctly the second time around, then it becomes less attractive to save those extra two hours.

I know there are operatives that will change a clutch on your driveway in two or three hours, but be warned speed is not of the essence in this job, but care and attention, along with good quality parts.

It would take me a leisurely and careful six hours to do this on a two post lift , as it did a couple of weeks ago, and maybe a couple of extra hours if doing the job on axle stands on my driveway as I did in December 2017.

The difference being the replacement clutch will likely outlast the car in my case.

Brian

[MagicMadjeski]

I'm currently looking at changing the slipping clutch on my CDTi and have been quoted £708 including VAT for the parts and labour but came across this today...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FOR-ROVER...xaVD:rk:2:pf:0

Could anyone advise whether this is a too good to be true clutch kit or experience of buying one?

[trikey]

Not the best brand, for a few £ more you could have LUK or borg & beck.

[Ross R75]

Originally Posted by MagicMadjeski

I'm currently looking at changing the slipping clutch on my CDTi and have been quoted £708 including VAT for the parts and labour but came across this today...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FOR-ROVER...xaVD:rk:2:pf:0

Could anyone advise whether this is a too good to be true clutch kit or experience of buying one?

Why would you even think of it when the Genuine MGR one is only £2 dearer?

https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-ZUA001321