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15th May 2019, 21:34 | #1 |
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To change or not to change this flywheel?
Hi!
I have just removed my gearbox to change the clutch (which was slipping) and the slave and master cylinders (bought new ones from DMGRS) on my ZT-T cdti Mk2. I did it the long way by removing the subframe. Now that I can see the flywheel, I am wondering if I should keep it or not. It has a lot of thermic marks (cf. pics). However, it has only two teeth of play and very little radial play, maybe 1mm. So the question is, can I safely avoid buying a new flywheel? Thanks |
15th May 2019, 22:05 | #2 |
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Hi Jacques, it's within LUK tolerances for both axial and radial play, I would be tempted to clean the face lightly with 180 grade production paper and box it up.
The clutch must have been slipping quite badly? Brian |
15th May 2019, 22:20 | #3 |
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I would also use a straight edge and the thinnest possible feeler gauge to check if the surface is not warped or has high/low spots.
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16th May 2019, 09:09 | #4 |
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Thanks a lot for your answer, guys
Yes Brian, this clutch has been slipping and then not slipping for more than a year. But now, with a caravan in the equation, I had no choice but change it. The worse time it had, was the day we brought the caravan in the garden for the first time. Lots of manoeuvres and a big smell of hot clutch. Other than that everytime it really slipped on the road, often in 5th gear, picking up from 80km/h with too much pressure on the right pedal, I always lifted my foot to prenvent it to slip. So yeah, it has slipped on many occasions even though I was cautious not to accelerate too much. Soon, I'll reenjoy the pleasure of that infamous 160 upgrade in 5th gear So my plan is to clean the flywheel surface and check for high/low spots as suggested by slovcan. |
16th May 2019, 20:15 | #5 |
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Is that a replacement driven plate you are taking out? The one I have just removed from my 133,000 mile 2001 CDT appears to be the original, springless, German made one. It only slipped slightly on hard acceleration (still 114bhp). It had worn the rivet heads off on one side, and broken them through the thin, remaining friction material on the other side, so the friction material was effectively free floating, causing bad judder at take-off. While there is some heat marking on the flywheel, and 1, light diagonal score line, it looks nothing like as severe as yours. I am still not sure how much damage was done by the garage mechanic who "tested" my clutch by holding the car on the brakes, and increasing the throttle pressure as he let the clutch out oh so slowly until it started smoking and slipping, fully out, at which point he stopped the test, and confirmed that my clutch was knackered. Brought a whole new meaning to heel-and-toe! And meant I didn't engage his services for the clutch change.
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16th May 2019, 20:42 | #6 | |
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Quote:
My rules is to never manoeuvrer with it attached to the car, I use the mover for that, or push it by hand, or use a hand winch to get it up my drive.
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Harry How To's and items I offer for free, or just to cover the cost of my expenses... http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...40#post1764540 Fix a poor handbrake; DIY ABS diagnostic unit; Loan of the spanner needed to change the CDT belts; free OBD diagnostics +MAF; Correct Bosch MAF cheap; DVB-T install in an ex-hi-line system; DD install with a HK amp; FBH servicing. I've taken a vow of poverty. To annoy me, send money. Last edited by HarryM1BYT; 16th May 2019 at 21:26.. |
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17th May 2019, 23:12 | #7 |
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Memories of my dad, trying to turn around a Bedford CA Dormobile and caravan at the dead end of a farm lane, in the dark, somewhere in the wilds of Northumberland. After burning out the clutch, he walked back to the farmhouse we had passed earlier, and eventually, we were towed into a garage yard in Hexham, full of crashed cars off the A69, where we spent the night in the caravan.
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28th December 2019, 16:56 | #8 |
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By the way, I decided to keep the flywheel and everything is working well
However I think I put too much glue on the clutch disc because when I first started the engine on neutral, I couldn't engage any gear. My solution was to turn off the engine, engage the 4th gear, fully press the cluth pedal and starting the engine. This was enough to unglue the disc from the flywheel! Thanks for your help and tips. This forum and the people who participate are gold!! |
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