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Old 7th November 2019, 13:21   #11
stevestrat
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Originally Posted by VVC-Geeza View Post
Buy a new valve and split it at the large nut so the tail and body separate.
That seemed like a good idea, would eliminate disturbing a connection outside the tank. Bought a new valve before discovering how inaccessible the pipe to valve connection is but . . . . the valve body and the threaded "tail" won't separate, the valve body just turns rather than unscrew
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Old 7th November 2019, 13:34   #12
macafee2
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[QUOTE=max1;2773636]
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Originally Posted by stevestrat View Post
Its a slightly weird, hybrid, system. Mains water feeds a combi boiler, kitchen etc, the tank seems to only feed the cold tap on the bathroom sink and toilet, maybe the shower as well I object to getting someone in for what is a simple job, its just getting at the bl00dy thing, dumb idea to put it at the back of the tank! The valve is entitled to be tired, it probably dates from when the cottages were originally renovated about 50 years ago.

From your description it would seem that your bathroom's cold plumbing is piped up as a low pressure system, ( tank fed ). This was sometimes done so that early mixer shower valves and bath mixer taps were operating on equal pressures when being used.
I assume that when the combi boiler was fitted the existing shower valve was not compatible to the new boiler, and therefore left to run on the low pressure set up.

A solution to your problem may be to change the shower valve to a combi compliant model, then reconnect your low pressure cold supply to the toilet, basin and bath back onto the cold main. You would then be able to terminate the use of the tank.

It sounds slot of work, but to connect the low pressure cold could easily be done in the roof space by redirecting the cold mains supply to the tank to connect onto the low pressure cold pipe from the tank.

Hope this makes sense.
before getting rid of cold water storage tank and connecting cistern to mains water supply check bye-laws. In the event of mains water being cut off the storage tank provides cold water to flush the toilet. Low pressure, surly is after the tank, not before it. A pressure reducing valve could be used to reduce the pressure of mains water feeding cistern and taps although both taps and syphon in the cistern may be able to cope with mains pressure.

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Old 7th November 2019, 16:51   #13
VVC-Geeza
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Originally Posted by stevestrat View Post
That seemed like a good idea, would eliminate disturbing a connection outside the tank. Bought a new valve before discovering how inaccessible the pipe to valve connection is but . . . . the valve body and the threaded "tail" won't separate, the valve body just turns rather than unscrew
You need to hold the valve body in the vertical position with a pair of mole grips or large adjustable spanner while turning the large nut anti clockwise,then they will separate.Don't forget to isolate the water supply first.
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Old 15th November 2019, 14:57   #14
stevestrat
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I now have a float valve that shuts off! Finally got a chance to have another go at it and did as you suggested Mick, separated the valve body from the tail on the new valve, removed the old valve body and swapped them over. No longer have to leave the cold tap in the bathroom sink dribbling.
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Old 15th November 2019, 20:57   #15
VVC-Geeza
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I now have a float valve that shuts off! Finally got a chance to have another go at it and did as you suggested Mick, separated the valve body from the tail on the new valve, removed the old valve body and swapped them over. No longer have to leave the cold tap in the bathroom sink dribbling.
Nice to hear Steve
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