Rear suspension upper arm.

[Best_of_British]

My saloon has been off the road for 2 years, I've finally got the motivation to get it on the road (Sun is shining). It's a Y plate and the rear suspension has had it, I've slowly been collecting discount parts for a full rebuild. I had a good look at it today and the corrosion on the bolts but the fear of god into me and make me think that breaking it down will be anything but simple.

I've done my research on many excellent threads on here and the PDF that a member kindly put together. I started today with plus gas, heat and a decent 6 point socket to try and get the ARB off to Refurb, the 10mm bolts came off on the exhaust side, but the other side one just rounded. Does anyone have experience of them Irwin bolt extractors? getting this 10mm bolt shifted, if so I will invest in some.

Shock absorber bolts cracked easy but the inboard upper arm bolt which is enclosed looked a problem, I was thinking the best solution would be to buy a deep 15mm 6 point socket, would this fit?

I know it may be easier to drop the whole thing, but as the car is off road I am just plugging away an hour at a time, littrally a bolt at a time. I would like to get them loosened, but will resort to plan B if the captive nuts spin and drop it. I would get photos of how bad it is up but not done since PB demise.

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[Steady Eddy]

Yes I invested in a set of Irwin bolt extractors, they have got me out of jail a few times, essential bit of kit when working on old or classic cars, which are weathered.Get some you won't be disappointed.

[chris75]

Originally Posted by Steady Eddy

Yes I invested in a set of Irwin bolt extractors, they have got me out of jail a few times, essential bit of kit when working on old or classic cars, which are weathered.Get some you won't be disappointed.

Seconded ! They are good

[Arctic]

very helpfully tool to have in your kit, used them quite a few times

[steveharvey2001]

I had the same issue and I used the second smallest, and then the smallest, of this set to remove the old bolts

https://www.screwfix.com/p/irwin-bol...et-5-pcs/96028





Then replaced them with 20mm M8 Flange head stainless steel bolts

[KWIL]

I am not sure that is a good idea, S/S bolts in a loaded location??
Personally I would stick with the "proper" High Tensile steel ones.

[steveharvey2001]

Originally Posted by KWIL

I am not sure that is a good idea, S/S bolts in a loaded location??
Personally I would stick with the "proper" High Tensile steel ones.

That is an interesting point to make,

I had followed the idea from this thread..

Are the bolts under much tension when the wheels are on the ground?

[KWIL]

Of course they are in tension, they are holding the bushes in a fixed, non rotating position, apart from that, they are torqued to the correct load (hopefully) and are hence in tension anyway.

You are of course welcome to "follow any thread", but that does not mean the contents are necessarily correct. its an old myth that using S/S stops corrosion, but S/S in contact with rusty steel is quite likely to rust. S/S is corrosion resistant, not proof. Try putting a few bits of wire wool in your S/S sink and see what happens!!

[klarzy]

Originally Posted by KWIL

Of course they are in tension, they are holding the bushes in a fixed, non rotating position, apart from that, they are torqued to the correct load (hopefully) and are hence in tension anyway.

You are of course welcome to "follow any thread", but that does not mean the contents are necessarily correct. its an old myth that using S/S stops corrosion, but S/S in contact with rusty steel is quite likely to rust. S/S is corrosion resistant, not proof. Try putting a few bits of wire wool in your S/S sink and see what happens!!

I use stainless steel for body panels etc that you want to look nice, but grease the treads first to stop them picking up in the steel elements they are going into and never use them on brakes, suspension or steering elements...

[Mike Noc]

Originally Posted by KWIL

Of course they are in tension, they are holding the bushes in a fixed, non rotating position, apart from that, they are torqued to the correct load (hopefully) and are hence in tension anyway.

Talking of torque, the stainless bolts will be under too much tension if you have tightened them to the same torque as you would the original high tensile bolts.