Compensator under the car

T16 · 22nd July 2018, 16:04

Anyone got any tips for doing this?

Ive a load of stuff dropped from under the car, and now is the perfect time to switch the compensator.

What is the technique? I cannot for the life of me get the old one out.

I saw "rotate by 90" degrees on here, and arguably from looking at it, you want to rotate the thing 90 towards the back of the car, rather than left to right.

Getting very frustrated, but want to get it done as I've good access from the underside.

Ps Ive done it once before, but this time I am truly stumped.

clf · 22nd July 2018, 16:31

Quote:

Originally Posted by T16

Anyone got any tips for doing this?

Ive a load of stuff dropped from under the car, and now is the perfect time to switch the compensator.

What is the technique? I cannot for the life of me get the old one out.

I saw "rotate by 90" degrees on here, and arguably from looking at it, you want to rotate the thing 90 towards the back of the car, rather than left to right.

Getting very frustrated, but want to get it done as I've good access from the underside.

Ps Ive done it once before, but this time I am truly stumped.

Can you do it from under?

Sent from my SM-A310F using Tapatalk

wullie480 · 22nd July 2018, 18:04

Have you removed the plastic retainer that keeps the cable in place?

T-Cut · 22nd July 2018, 18:09

Quote:

Originally Posted by clf

Can you do it from under?

I believe that's the official method. There's a small access panel. Very small.

TC

T16 · 22nd July 2018, 18:55

Yeah Im aware of Arctics amazing guide.

Its just that with a load of suspension work, heatshield replacement, fuel tank straps, exhaust maintenance etc, now is the ideal time to tackle the compensator.

I literally have no idea, been trying it for over an hour, no success!

I think it would be easier if the balls were further towards the front, mine are quite far back, but I can just about get access to the cables with my finger, just cant find a way to prize it out.

I'd rather not strip out the interior just now either, as it is packed full of stuff.

Car is a good two feet off the ground, my hands are small-ish, what gives?! If there was another 10mm vertical room, you could rotate the thing 90deg towards the back and I think just slide it forward.

The closest I have got is to angle side to side so that one ball is pretty much in the hole, but cannot get further than that.

I'm a stubborn old NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-, and I want to do it this way. Even more annoying how this is the "official" method too.

T16 · 22nd July 2018, 18:57

Quote:

Originally Posted by wullie480

Have you removed the plastic retainer that keeps the cable in place?

Yep!!

Front cable off no problem, it is the two rear balls that have got me stymied.

suzublu · 22nd July 2018, 19:15

Have you slackened the nut on the handbrake

Arctic · 22nd July 2018, 20:36

I have yet to see proof of this being done the way you are trying, I tried way back in 2011 but gave up as soon as I saw the size of the rubber bung, my fingers would never even be able to fit.

And what a nightmare you have to move the exhaust and the heat shield out of the way, as you say you are already working under there but even so I would personally spend the time you are using up trying to fit the compensator through that daft hole on the rest of the work you are carrying out.

It will only take you about 25-40 minutes if you decide to do it from within the car good luck hopefully you may succeed

T16 · 22nd July 2018, 21:21

The balls of the cables keep getting trapped in the holes.

2hrs wasted pretty much.

I think last time I did it I must have used a lever to pop the balls that final fraction.

Dont really fancy that again if risking any damage.

For those few who have done it from below, please chip in with your technique, before I set fire to the car :p

I dont mind scraped knuckles/blood/pain as long as something is possible, but I can only get two fingers into the access, if that. I slackened off the Handbrake adjusters at the drums about 20 notches, gave a couple of mm extra on the cables, but that was it.

Not one to be defeated, Im too curious as to what the secret method is from underneath.

Stupid design. Why not put a proper alloy cover like the top one underneath.

Edit:- I think I had a logic fail.. SLACKENING the shoes at the rear wont have helped. Tightening them against the drums will give some extra length to the cable no?

T-Cut · 22nd July 2018, 22:38

Quote:

Originally Posted by T16

Not one to be defeated, Im too curious as to what the secret method is from underneath.

Just checked in RAVE.

Use to manipulate the cable nipples through the access post, special tool OCT4535

TC

22nd July 2018, 16:04	#1
T16 I really should get out more....... ZT CDTi 135, ZT260SE Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Dundee Posts: 2,877 Thanks: 10 Thanked 331 Times in 213 Posts	Compensator under the car Anyone got any tips for doing this? Ive a load of stuff dropped from under the car, and now is the perfect time to switch the compensator. What is the technique? I cannot for the life of me get the old one out. I saw "rotate by 90" degrees on here, and arguably from looking at it, you want to rotate the thing 90 towards the back of the car, rather than left to right. Getting very frustrated, but want to get it done as I've good access from the underside. Ps Ive done it once before, but this time I am truly stumped.

22nd July 2018, 18:04	#3
wullie480 This is my second home 1 Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Banned Posts: 5,195 Thanks: 528 Thanked 1,022 Times in 786 Posts	Have you removed the plastic retainer that keeps the cable in place? __________________ [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

22nd July 2018, 18:55	#5
T16 I really should get out more....... ZT CDTi 135, ZT260SE Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Dundee Posts: 2,877 Thanks: 10 Thanked 331 Times in 213 Posts	Yeah Im aware of Arctics amazing guide. Its just that with a load of suspension work, heatshield replacement, fuel tank straps, exhaust maintenance etc, now is the ideal time to tackle the compensator. I literally have no idea, been trying it for over an hour, no success! I think it would be easier if the balls were further towards the front, mine are quite far back, but I can just about get access to the cables with my finger, just cant find a way to prize it out. I'd rather not strip out the interior just now either, as it is packed full of stuff. Car is a good two feet off the ground, my hands are small-ish, what gives?! If there was another 10mm vertical room, you could rotate the thing 90deg towards the back and I think just slide it forward. The closest I have got is to angle side to side so that one ball is pretty much in the hole, but cannot get further than that. I'm a stubborn old NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-, and I want to do it this way. Even more annoying how this is the "official" method too. Last edited by T16; 22nd July 2018 at 18:57..

22nd July 2018, 20:36	#8
Arctic Give to Learn Freelander 2 Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: West Midlands Posts: 18,716 Thanks: 1,155 Thanked 6,407 Times in 3,874 Posts	I have yet to see proof of this being done the way you are trying, I tried way back in 2011 but gave up as soon as I saw the size of the rubber bung, my fingers would never even be able to fit. And what a nightmare you have to move the exhaust and the heat shield out of the way, as you say you are already working under there but even so I would personally spend the time you are using up trying to fit the compensator through that daft hole on the rest of the work you are carrying out. It will only take you about 25-40 minutes if you decide to do it from within the car good luck hopefully you may succeed __________________ Arctic Givology Learn to Give Everything is Achievable ad altiora tendo. Check out our Nano meet dates http://www.midlandsnanomeets.co.uk/ http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/index.php?thepage=howto " You do the work , we supply the expertise "

22nd July 2018, 21:21	#9
T16 I really should get out more....... ZT CDTi 135, ZT260SE Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Dundee Posts: 2,877 Thanks: 10 Thanked 331 Times in 213 Posts	The balls of the cables keep getting trapped in the holes. 2hrs wasted pretty much. I think last time I did it I must have used a lever to pop the balls that final fraction. Dont really fancy that again if risking any damage. For those few who have done it from below, please chip in with your technique, before I set fire to the car :p I dont mind scraped knuckles/blood/pain as long as something is possible, but I can only get two fingers into the access, if that. I slackened off the Handbrake adjusters at the drums about 20 notches, gave a couple of mm extra on the cables, but that was it. Not one to be defeated, Im too curious as to what the secret method is from underneath. Stupid design. Why not put a proper alloy cover like the top one underneath. Edit:- I think I had a logic fail.. SLACKENING the shoes at the rear wont have helped. Tightening them against the drums will give some extra length to the cable no? Last edited by T16; 22nd July 2018 at 21:43..

22nd July 2018, 19:15	#7
suzublu This is my second home rover 75 1.8 vvc club se wedgwood blue Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Seaton Carew Posts: 26,920 Thanks: 65 Thanked 7,142 Times in 4,642 Posts	Have you slackened the nut on the handbrake