Help, water pump replacement on a CDT

[macafee2]

Originally Posted by Mike Noc

The diesel water pumps are usually pretty long lasting - mine failed just shy of 300k miles, and the aftermarket replacement went after a further 60k miles.

Depending on how many miles your car has done it may be better to stick with the original pump. It is easier to replace the thermostat, housing seal and O ring than to change the pump.

If you are changing the water pump, the original gasket is a one piece for that side of the engine, and you will need to cut the little tabs that connect the water pump part to the rest before fitting the new gasket.

Haynes manual says I cant get to thermostat until pump removed, no idea if this is right or wrong. From what you say I may be better to refit the pump with a new gasket.
car has done 52k.

I'm a bit in panic mode over this.

macafee2

[Mike Noc]

Haynes is wrong on this one - I've changed a few thermostats with the pump in place. Just be careful you don't bend the small metal pipe that goes into the 'stat housing out of alignment, or it could leak once re-assembled.

[macafee2]

Originally Posted by Mike Noc

Haynes is wrong on this one - I've changed a few thermostats with the pump in place. Just be careful you don't bend the small metal pipe that goes into the 'stat housing out of alignment, or it could leak once re-assembled.

thank you, this would be good news as it should mean the O ring Brian mentioned should be accessible.
I wont be attempting this until the new year. I have parts on order.


macafee2

[apgandy]

This is a job I have been doing today! not to bad whilst swerving the snow storms but have managed to remove my pump without jacking the engine. The biggest NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD- was removing the last pump bolt nearest the crank pulley.

[trikey]

Stat and O ring can be done with the water pump in place, remove the two cap screws that hold the pipe (At the back of the engine) This will give you a little movement on the pipe (And it is a little) You can then access the O ring and the stat if required.

[macafee2]

Originally Posted by apgandy

This is a job I have been doing today! not to bad whilst swerving the snow storms but have managed to remove my pump without jacking the engine. The biggest NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD- was removing the last pump bolt nearest the crank pulley.

if only you had been closer i'd like to have "helped" to see how it's done.
i'm not looking forward to doing this

macafee2

[macafee2]

Originally Posted by trikey

Stat and O ring can be done with the water pump in place, remove the two cap screws that hold the pipe (At the back of the engine) This will give you a little movement on the pipe (And it is a little) You can then access the O ring and the stat if required.

thanks. may try just doing O ring to see if this cures it but it is not a job i'm looking forward to. Mike Noc has said he is willing to come over and hep which I appreciate. We will try to meet up in the new year.

macafee2

[trikey]

Originally Posted by macafee2

thanks. may try just doing O ring to see if this cures it but it is not a job i'm looking forward to. Mike Noc has said he is willing to come over and hep which I appreciate. We will try to meet up in the new year.

macafee2

If its the O ring, you will see a build up of dried coolant where the pipe fits into the stat (On the top)

[macafee2]

what other fluid is in that area that could run down the back of the engine ?

macafee2

[trikey]

Originally Posted by macafee2

what other fluid is in that area that could run down the back of the engine ?

macafee2

Not a lot really, oil from the turbo maybe, or coolant from the feed pipe that runs along the back of the block (Although i have never seen one of those fail)