Temp gage Went Red whilst in a traffic jam

[gizmo_the_great]

Hi

I got cuaght in a traffic jam today (thanks to the football traffic in Derby!!) and was either stationary or very slow moving for about 40 minutes. All of a sudden I noticed the temp gauge shot up to red!

I have recent experience with my BMW that had a burst hose that red generally means "stop the god dam engine!!" and it nearly melted the head!

So, somewhat paniced by the red light, I spun back round and went home in the non-traffic-jammed direction. What I noticed though (unlike the BMW with the burst hose) is that the gauge immediately went back down to normal (middle position) within about 10 seconds of moving. Now with an enigne that has no water in it, even moving forward doesn't always stop it overheating, as I learned with the beamer.

So I am assuming that the temp gages on these cars are perhaps more sensitive than normal, or does the red light indicate there is problem? My Dad had the entire coolant system replaced about a year ago when he owned it and I checked it was topped up about a month ago and it hasn't been used much since.

So my question is just one of gaining familiarity with the ZT. Do others expereince red lights with them when they are stuck in long jams? Are they quite sensitive to temp rises? Or do you suspect there's a problem?

[stocktake]

You need to put in your profile that you have a KV6 2.5 otherwise people will not be able to help.

The temp gauge on our cars is useless it stays in the middle from 75 to 115 deg if it goes above this temp then it quickly rises but the damage may have been done. The KV6 can withstand overheating sometimes, it's the luck of the draw.

Cooling fans are known to fail there is a specific test to check of your is working.

Fan test: Start engine select demist and the cooling fan at the radiator should be running continuous.

Next issue is water loss, Thermostats are known to fail, these are situated in the v of the engine look for water in the V. lower rails are known to corrode on later models. water pumps are another known leak point
How often do you check oil and water? it may be you have a tiny leak and the water level simply dropped too low.
Make sure you follow the correct procedure when refilling the system with coolant to avoid air locks.

D...

[KWIL]

I got stuck on Dartmoor in traffic and had the Red light syndrome. Yes the engine (2.5KV6) was exceptionally hot. Let it cool to normal and drove carefully. Fan motor had given up entirely. Drove 180 miles home the next day on ram cooling only. Replaced the fan and motor.

[Zircon]

Hello,

Had the same experience a few years ago and it was caused by the failure of a brand new water pump that has been replaced at the same time as is generally advised as the V6 cambelts. All was sorted out with no apparent long-term damage to the engine .

All the best, Nicholas/Zircon

[COLVERT]

Gismo. Yes you have a problem.--

It should never do what it did if everything is working OK.

My advice is---------------------------------------------------Panic.---






PS. Follow the advice given in this thread.

[Dallas]

Originally Posted by gizmo_the_great

My Dad had the entire coolant system replaced about a year ago when he owned it and I checked it was topped up about a month ago and it hasn't been used much since.

What parts did he have replaced, what brands and from what supplier?

As Stocktake has suggested, your radiator fan may not be working, which is allowing your engine to overheat when stuck in traffic. You can perform a quick test, start engine, press the 'Demist' button on the climate control, walk round to front of car to see/hear if the large 18" fan is turning.

Otherwise some of those newly replaced parts maybe already failing, or the job was not done correctly. Check the thermostat, the water-pump, check all pipes for leaks. Have you checked the coolant level in the expansion tank since the car overheated?

I had all three parts fail on me, the thermostat and water-pump had a slow leak, plus my radiator fan had packed up. Its not a case of 'IF' its a case of 'WHEN'.

As yours is a 2002, you will most probably have the silly square water oil-cooler, it maybe blocked. Its at the front left-side of engine, two pipes going into it.

Good luck.

[gizmo_the_great]

Just dug out the invoice that my Dad had. It is dated 05/03/15 by Auto Services in Grimsby and it says :

"Investigate coolant loss and intermittent over heating
Carry out replacement of radiator
Flush and bleed cooling system
Replacement of cooling fan assembly : £160
Replacement of Anitfreeze : £25"

With VAT etc, total cost was £222

I can confirm the fan is in working order. It kicks in and spins, and I noticed it was on when it overheated.

The coolant tank looks like this : http://www.aronline.co.uk/blogs/wp-c...-75-engine.jpg

When topping up, I have noticed that the level seems to creep - I pout in fluid and I hear it trickle through the system a bit and the level lowers, so I pour more in and eventually it stops. But yeah - few days later it seems to be empty again.

So looks like I have a leak somewhere, but nothing noticeable under the car. I guess I need to jack it up, remove any under car covers and then top it up and see if it pours out.

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by gizmo_the_great

Replacement of cooling fan assembly : £160

Hmmmm. At that price, it isn't an MG Rover part (unless it's second-hand). I wonder what they fitted, and whether it is wired properly.

I can confirm the fan is in working order. It kicks in and spins, and I noticed it was on when it overheated.

Check that it starts running when the temperature reaches 100°C.

When topping up, I have noticed that the level seems to creep - I pout in fluid and I hear it trickle through the system a bit and the level lowers ..

It sounds as if the garage didn't bleed the system properly. They almost certainly didn't raise the expansion tank which is essential. Here's the correct MGR procedure for the 2.5 engine.

Simon

[gizmo_the_great]

Sorry - to be clear, the £160 was for all 4 of the things in the top list. It was listed as 4 hours work.

Will act on your other suggestions, thanks.

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by gizmo_the_great

Sorry - to be clear, the £160 was for all 4 of the things in the top list.

So the total paid was £180 before VAT, for four hours labour including antifreeze, a radiator and a cooling fan? I'm now even more concerned.

Simon