Rover 75 Diesel Clutch issues

[Mike Noc]

Originally Posted by macafee2

if you want a hand pm me, I owe you

macafee2

Thanks Ian - much appreciated.

Originally Posted by Sonic ZS

Hi Mike, do you have any info on the GhettoTech clutch filler ? (I've Googled it but nothing comes up....apart from rap music )

Bit like Marinabrian's Frabtel - home made stuff made up from bits laying around the garage.

I knocked it up using an old pipe fitting and some plastic hose to get through the winter the last time the slave failed (around 100k miles ago).

If anyone wants to make one don't forget to seal the vent hole in the cap.







This is the GhettoTech cold pressure tester - didn't cost a penny.

[marinabrian]

Ghettotech Industries are definitely in a similar business to Frabtel Incorporated

Behold the Frabtel clutchmastercylinderfillomatic 2000 ™



This gizmo was connected using a tube and syringe arrangement to save my back while waiting for a break in the weather to change the clutch on my dad's tourer.

It requires the condom to have a nick cut into it, and also the breather hole in the cap blocked.

A definite valuable addition to your modern lifestyle

Brian

[trikey]

I’m sure you pair had shares in Ronco way back....

[RobSun]

Originally Posted by Sonic ZS

I'm reading this thread with interest, as not by choice my current 75's are all autos, so I've not had any experience of the problems with manuals.

If the master cylinders for our cars are a weak point, is it not possible to modify a different unit from another vehicle, to fix the situation ?

My manual Discovery has done over 200k on it's original master cylinder, so they obviously can last if designed/engineered correctly

Equally, I can't remember slave cylinders being an issue back when I was selling these cars new ? So what's changed from the original design that's making some of the replacements so frail ??

Mate of mine has a Discovery and his clutch has had to be replaced a few weeks back for the second time in just over a year. Both caused by the same hydraulic problems we are having. Original clutch had done 157,000 miles last one less than 10,000 miles. He's hoping this one lasts, work was done by a local Land Rover specialist.

[mor75]

now found the issue:

no air is allowed in the master cylinder reservoir or anywhere else in the system.. i'm even going to go the extra mile and reverse bleed the system to crush the plastic Condom within the master cylinder for an extra stiff clutch

hoping after that i'll make it to the moon and get my sticker off Trikey

[marinabrian]

Originally Posted by mor75

now found the issue:

no air is allowed in the master cylinder reservoir or anywhere else in the system.. i'm even going to go the extra mile and reverse bleed the system to crush the plastic Condom within the master cylinder for an extra stiff clutch

hoping after that i'll make it to the moon and get my NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD- sticker off Trikey

So what was causing the air in the system, was it entering through the bleed screw on the slave?

When you reverse bleed the clutch, you need to be especially careful not to compress the condom in the master cylinder excessively, as there needs to be enough space left for fluid returning to the reservoir from the slave

You will feel the resistance on the syringe plunger......that is the time to stop

Brian

[mor75]

Originally Posted by marinabrian

So what was causing the air in the system, was it entering through the bleed screw on the slave?

When you reverse bleed the clutch, you need to be especially careful not to compress the condom in the master cylinder excessively, as there needs to be enough space left for fluid returning to the reservoir from the slave

You will feel the resistance on the syringe plunger......that is the time to stop

Brian

when i got the slave install with clutch plate.. the new slave did leak a tiny bit though the bleeding nipple THREAD!! solved with alittle plumbers type (but everyone was saying change the master) then when i installed the new master i never finished the bleeding off 100% correct with no air bubbles in the master cylinder reservoir, if left with an air bubble then your compressing that air bubble before it gets enough pressure to shot down the pipe line towards slave.

[BoroRover]

Originally Posted by marinabrian

Ghettotech Industries are definitely in a similar business to Frabtel Incorporated

Behold the Frabtel clutchmastercylinderfillomatic 2000 ™



This gizmo was connected using a tube and syringe arrangement to save my back while waiting for a break in the weather to change the clutch on my dad's tourer.

It requires the condom to have a nick cut into it, and also the breather hole in the cap blocked.

A definite valuable addition to your modern lifestyle

Brian

Wonderful innovation, brilliant inventive thinking. You guys really are amazing.

[macafee2]

Originally Posted by marinabrian

Ghettotech Industries are definitely in a similar business to Frabtel Incorporated

Behold the Frabtel clutchmastercylinderfillomatic 2000 ™



This gizmo was connected using a tube and syringe arrangement to save my back while waiting for a break in the weather to change the clutch on my dad's tourer.

It requires the condom to have a nick cut into it, and also the breather hole in the cap blocked.

A definite valuable addition to your modern lifestyle

Brian

I don't know if they are still available but you used to be able to get valves for motorcycle wheels that had tubeless tyres. They had a metal shaft with an external screw thread, metal base, hole up the centre for the valve and 2? "rubber" washers and a nut. These could be "bolted" into the cap, will seal when the nut is tightened and if the valve is removed fluid can flow.

https://www.racing-planet.co.uk/valv...E#.XuR7Pcvty70

Not only blank off the other hole in the cap, remove or cut the condom in the master cylinder

macafee2