Front hub nuts - torque question

[marinabrian]

Originally Posted by Blink

Ok thanks Steve, I'll try that tomorrow - rain has stopped play for today.

I did get the RH strut & swivel off though - and what a pain that was! The exhaust U clamp method didn't work and neither did the 2x2 method. I even tried both methods together - i.e. belting the 2x2 with a club hammer while standing (or rather crouching) on the 30" crowbar, which was held in place by the U clamp. It still wouldn't budge!

In the end I had to resort to this.



I hope I haven't damaged the drive shaft (?) - I was having to whack this thing pretty hard. Anyway, it worked, even if it has wiped out the ball joint in the process (not really important 'cos I've got new lower arms to go on).

This is the RH now. That shaft looks to me like it's been overheating. Look at the colour of the area just inboard of the thread - that's in line with the outside of the bearing. I wonder if it's connected with the RH hub nut being done up too tight (as mentioned in post 47).



Time for a cuppa.

That bottom arm is wrecked now, never use the type of taper ball joint splitter on a parallel joint, in fact throw it in the bin it's a bodger's tool.

The CV joint is fine not overheated, the bluing is from the original heat treatment to the splines.

Oh and another thing, the driveshafts are not tubular, but solid, you are going to make a lot of unnecessary work for yourself by attempting to remove the inner and outer joints, and the intermediate support bearing on the offside shaft, and create balancing and harmonic problems by having them blasted.

My thoughts are if the boots are not perished, leave them alone replacement CV boots are seldom of the same quality as the originals, and similarly the stainless straps securing the boot to the joint.

If you want them to look good and have them nicely painted, after you refit the legs, use emery tape to take off what will be surface rust on the exposed areas of the shafts, treat with Kurust, then brush paint with a direct to rust satin finish paint.

For what it's worth, attempting to replace parts to the suspension in the manner you are approaching the job, you will ultimately end up with the car behaving like an old banger, they really don't like it........the standard of the replacement bread and butter components are to put it bluntly, not as good as they should be.

Inveterate fiddling is not always the best approach to achieve the best results, I've just replaced one of the original lower track control arms on my own car, and I know the replacement will not be of the same quality as the one I removed, although made by a reputable manufacturer

Brian

[macafee2]

Originally Posted by Blink

PS. Rimmers driveshaft page is fairly useless now - most of the key parts have been deleted from the listing.

see my thread about bookmarking a web site

macafee2

[macafee2]

Originally Posted by Arctic

Hi Simon.
A small flat blade screw drive under the clip edge marked with the yellow dots will lift the part that's got the tags showing through.

The use screw driver in the clip that as been squashed together to make them tight. green arrow pointer

1

PS a few of these maybe of use to you as well, they must be good before putting the drive shaft back in, also when removing the drive shaft pull it out in a straight line no downward or upward movement as the seals are easy damaged, then when you come to refit the drive shafts you will have a leak.

https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-TDL100170

Arctic, any tips of putting a new circlip on without bending outwards quite a lot

mcafee2

[COLVERT]

Originally Posted by macafee2

Arctic, any tips of putting a new circlip on without bending outwards quite a lot

mcafee2

Use a cable tie.

[macafee2]

Originally Posted by COLVERT

Use a cable tie.

? explain cos I don't understand. when I changed mine it did not seem to want to spring back "closed" but stayed in the forced open position.

Do you mean close it back up by tightening a cable tie around the circlip?

macafee2

[Steven211]

Use cable tie as said, place the cable tie around the clip and tighten as much as you can and the shaft should fly on, the tie should come off once the shaft is knocked on.

[marinabrian]

Originally Posted by macafee2

Arctic, any tips of putting a new circlip on without bending outwards quite a lot

mcafee2

Push the circlip over the end of the shaft Ian, that is the way they are designed to work

Once the circlip is in the groove, pack around the clip with a small amount of grease and then centralise the circlip on the shaft.

This will allow the shaft to be entered into the differential without the circlip jamming and damaging the splines.

For those who have suggested a cable tie might be employed, may I ask a question..........how is the cable tie removed past the oil seal?, as the tie would need to remain in place until the shaft is entered into the differential gear

Brian

[Blink]

Originally Posted by macafee2

see my thread about bookmarking a web site

macafee2

Thanks Ian - I keep forgetting about that website (link). I didn't realise they had everything listed whether or not the part is NLA.

As for Rimmers, I've started to make a pdf of every page I visit now, before they de-list even more parts. Pdf-ing every page is a very tedious exercise!

[COLVERT]

Originally Posted by macafee2

? explain cos I don't understand. when I changed mine it did not seem to want to spring back "closed" but stayed in the forced open position.

Do you mean close it back up by tightening a cable tie around the circlip?

macafee2

I was referring to Artics post No 83.--Ditch the metal and use plastic.---

[Blink]

Originally Posted by marinabrian

That bottom arm is wrecked now, never use the type of taper ball joint splitter on a parallel joint, in fact throw it in the bin it's a bodger's tool.

The CV joint is fine not overheated, the bluing is from the original heat treatment to the splines.

Oh and another thing, the driveshafts are not tubular, but solid, you are going to make a lot of unnecessary work for yourself by attempting to remove the inner and outer joints, and the intermediate support bearing on the offside shaft, and create balancing and harmonic problems by having them blasted.

My thoughts are if the boots are not perished, leave them alone replacement CV boots are seldom of the same quality as the originals, and similarly the stainless straps securing the boot to the joint.

If you want them to look good and have them nicely painted, after you refit the legs, use emery tape to take off what will be surface rust on the exposed areas of the shafts, treat with Kurust, then brush paint with a direct to rust satin finish paint.

For what it's worth, attempting to replace parts to the suspension in the manner you are approaching the job, you will ultimately end up with the car behaving like an old banger, they really don't like it........the standard of the replacement bread and butter components are to put it bluntly, not as good as they should be.

Inveterate fiddling is not always the best approach to achieve the best results, I've just replaced one of the original lower track control arms on my own car, and I know the replacement will not be of the same quality as the one I removed, although made by a reputable manufacturer

Brian

Yes, I know the taper splitter has wrecked the ball joint. I didn't have much choice though - nothing else would shift it, even using the 2x2 method and the U clamp method at the same time wouldn't do it. The primary reason for all this is to get the subframe off and de-rust it so the ball joint had to come off one way or the other.

Re the driveshafts, I see what you're saying - I can treat them in situ. The CV boots look fine but I was hoping to see if anything is amiss underneath them (see next post). Can the original stainless straps be re-used once they've been undone? I don't think they were ever available separately - it looks like they were part of a boot & strap kit.