Cavity Wall Insulation

[lady zed]

Has anyone had it removed and how much did it cost?

I had it put in nearly 5 years ago and it's the worst thing I ever did. Since it went in I'm plagued with black mold in the bedrooms, it's dreadful. I've been in this house nearly 15 years and didn't have any damp issues before the cavity walls were done. And needless to say my little boys bedroom is the worst, plus it's freezing

[Les4048]

Originally Posted by scooterchick

Has anyone had it removed and how much did it cost?

I had it put in nearly 5 years ago and it's the worst thing I ever did. Since it went in I'm plagued with black mold in the bedrooms, it's dreadful. I've been in this house nearly 15 years and didn't have any damp issues before the cavity walls were done. And needless to say my little boys bedroom is the worst, plus it's freezing

If it's done under the government scheme it should've been checked if the cavity was suitable. I asked for it done here but when they were boring the walls the cavity wasn't even so he said they're not doing it as he'd be back in two years removing it. The cavity has to be even to stop cold spots and condensation then mould forming. I'd say you've a case against who installed it as the property sounds as though it's not suitable. Hope this helps

[stocktake]

You should have received a CIGA 25yr guarantee.

As Field Service Manager for a major player within this industry. You will have a PM shortly Anna

[lady zed]

I'd agree. in hindsight I don't believe the property is suitable, tge house was built around 1920. unfortunately I can't remember who done it and I can't find the guarantee

[Stu67]

Ok, I'm a building surveyor, where do I start?

What age is your house, what is the cavity construction ( brick/block or brick/brick)? Why was cavity insulation fitted in the first place?

Unfortunately we tend to seal houses much more than we used too as we like to walk around in our t shirts and pants indoors. The reason you have mould is primarily due to the humidity within the house. It's not enough to heat a house you also need "air change" so that still, warm and humid air doesn't condense on the coldest surface. You will normally find mould is worse on North facing walls (coldest) and behind things like wardrobes as there is no air movement.

So what can you do? First off make sure that your washing machine, tumble drier and dishwasher are well ventilated. Next get some air movement ie make sure air bricks and trickle vents in windows are open. If your house is pretty old and has double glazing fitted crack open the windows and air the place. I know it's counter intuitive but you need to get the place vented properly.
There can be loads of reasons for mould, not necessarily down to the cavity insulation par sa. If I wasn't at the other end of the country I could put some damp meters on the walls and set up some humidistats to see if there were any specific problems.
Stu

[lady zed]

hi stu, the mold is equally bad north, East and south, west escapes cos its a semi. the house was built circa 1920. the mold is along the very top of the walls where wall meets ceiling, not blocked by anything at all, I don't have wardrobes. its only upstairs affected, downstairs has no signs of damp at all.

[Stu67]

Right Ok, upstairs bathroom / shower? Is your upstairs considerably warmer than downstairs? Do you use supplementary heating over the normal central heating? Ie gas heaters
You can get cheap little humidistats from the likes of Maplin's it would be interesting to know if there is a big difference in both humidity and temp between both floors.I know this may be simplistic but are all your gutters / fascias in good clear condition? You could be getting damp walls if not. In a similar way if the outside of your house is rendered is it in good condition? Water could be getting down the back of the rendering. Also might be worth clearing some of your loft insulation in a particular room to see if this helps.
It would suggest if this is the only place where it is occurring then there is some form of "cold bridge" it's all about getting the differentials in temperature across the various materials down. It may be the fact that they didn't fill the cavity all the way.
Stu

[sikelsh]

Are you getting damp on wall items, such as picture frames?

I rent out a few houses, and damp is often caused by lack of ventilation and not using heating.

Windows slightly open, bedroom doors open heating set on low using the thermostat, after using HG mould remover spray

Simon

[stocktake]

Damp caused by lifestyle will also show itself on the DG and other areas. I would suggest that if the mold has only shown itself post CWI then that is the cause and the property is unsuitable or it has been installed incorrectly.

Rubble in cavity, cold spots caused by incorrect fill, ( backed up by the drill pattern not conforming to BBA standards), lack of ventilation or existing being sealed , porous external brickwork, failed mortar, these can all contribute. If the mould is high level then it could simply be inadequate fill causing the cold spot but I doubt it. Worth checking if the cavity has headers and if there is any overspill in the loft.

Would you know. Is it 1st I.P or Kanauf who where the system designer? that should tell us the material, it may also give a clue to the installer.

Currently our prices are around £22 to £26 per square meter to remove CWI. Usually the extraction equipment can be operated from a correctly secured ladder ( And operator ) but sometimes scaffold is reqd.) Then you have to find out the cause of the problem. You may need a cavity whip to remove rubble, you may need to have it removed in two stages if is it too wet.
You really need to get your hands on the CIGA doc.

Thanks for the info on the PM

[lady zed]

Originally Posted by Stu67

Right Ok, upstairs bathroom / shower? Is your upstairs considerably warmer than downstairs? Do you use supplementary heating over the normal central heating? Ie gas heaters
You can get cheap little humidistats from the likes of Maplin's it would be interesting to know if there is a big difference in both humidity and temp between both floors.I know this may be simplistic but are all your gutters / fascias in good clear condition? You could be getting damp walls if not. In a similar way if the outside of your house is rendered is it in good condition? Water could be getting down the back of the rendering. Also might be worth clearing some of your loft insulation in a particular room to see if this helps.
It would suggest if this is the only place where it is occurring then there is some form of "cold bridge" it's all about getting the differentials in temperature across the various materials down. It may be the fact that they didn't fill the cavity all the way.
Stu

The living room and my bedroom are very warm, the boys bedroom (they don't sleep in there) is freezing. It's also the room most worse affected by the mould. I have to leave the door open so it gets the warmth from the rest of the house, if I keep the door closed it's like Siberia despite the radiator burning. It's the upstairs gable end room. Yes the bathroom is upstairs but always has been with no mould prblems from 2000 - 2010.......until the CWI was done