Cavity Wall Insulation - Page 3

Gemsathome · 23rd February 2015, 22:12

There's been some excellent advice here. I would also add, as an estate agent of 28 years, we see damp around windows all the time, which can be caused by a) poor fit or b) unsuitable material i.e old double glazed plastic coated aluminium. Once the moisture is in the room with heating on, evaporation takes the warmer moist air to congregate at the coldest points, often corners or tops of walls. Similarly, check your loft insulation, if the material is damp or there are signs of moisture running off the roof felt against the tiles, your loft may need vents to allow the moisture to disperse. (Please wear gloves if you are touching fibreglass insulation).
One final point, some PVC soffat companies, as Dave alluded to with cwi engineers, are paid bonus to whack plastic soffat/barge boards under the roof line without always putting in air vents. This happened to my father in law and his loft roof felt was running like it was dipped in water, he paid £1200.00 for additional roof and wall vents all over his bungalow to vent it.
Awful for you and your kids, it may also be worth speaking to the regulatory body to see if they can recommend a free visit from a reputable CWI installer who can assess the overall problems with your house.
Good luck, Mike

Pistonbroke666 · 24th February 2015, 07:55

This has been a very interesting read.

I live in a terraced, 20 year old house that's had cavity wall insulation and double glazing fitted in the last 5 years by the previous owner.

Condensation is a problem - I've been using a mini dehumidifier to keep the mould at bay but it's not a long term solution.

The following link takes you to a firm that sells ventilation gear.
Any recommendations?

http://www.envirovent.com/home-venti...uld-solutions/

HarryM1BYT · 24th February 2015, 09:30

CWI is working fine here....

What was a cold, damp and draughty 1950 semi. It was always cold - winter was a matter of huddling around a gas fire and mold on some walls ice formed on the inside of the glass.

The cavity was cleared of debris in around 1980 and CH installed around 1985. It was warmer with the CH, but not entirely comfortable, due to the cold windows and walls.

I had installed alloy DG around 1987, that was renewed around 4 years ago. Blown CWI installed in around 1995.. Over the years, I added forced ventilation, at locations moisture was created and stopped any clothes being dried in the main house. Cooker hood and an automatic bathroom fan, utility room with drying lines, a dehumidifier and an air circulation fan. Clothes on the drying lines dry over night, avoiding the need to use the dryer.

The utility is a double brick add on, no cavity, but with its own radiator. A dehumidifier is essential to prevent mold forming when drying clothes in there. It takes several pints out a night, when the lines are full. A wall mounted oscillating desk fan, ensures the dried air is circulated around the room.

The CH barely fires now, even in the very coldest weather. My weather station logs the inside temperature - with the CH shutting off at midnight to 8am, even with it sub zero outside, the indoor temperature rarely drops more than 1 deg C. Indoor humidity is always recorded between 30 and 40 percent.

The house is warm through out, none of the cold outside walls we used to suffer. The gas fire hasn't been used in 30 years, apart from to test.

It is no good sealing a house up and hoping for the best. Moisture has to be pumped out at source or deliberately condensed out to drain (dehumidifiers).

HarryM1BYT · 24th February 2015, 09:42

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pistonbroke666

This has been a very interesting read.

I live in a terraced, 20 year old house that's had cavity wall insulation and double glazing fitted in the last 5 years by the previous owner.

Condensation is a problem - I've been using a mini dehumidifier to keep the mould at bay but it's not a long term solution.

The following link takes you to a firm that sells ventilation gear.
Any recommendations?

http://www.envirovent.com/home-venti...uld-solutions/

I tend to stay away from companies with a big advertising budget and that company seems to have a massive advertising budget

The end customer pays...

Find out where the moisture is being put into your homes environment and tackle it at source. Lids on pans, cooker hoods, bathroom extract fans - all relatively cheap fixes.

HarryM1BYT · 24th February 2015, 10:11

When looking at passive heat recovery, its worth looking at how it actually works..

Extracted warm air is used to warm a surface and the cold incoming air is passed along the other side of that surface gaining some heat along the way.

So lets suppose the extracted air is at 22degC and the cold incoming air 10degC, the best you can expect is a rise of 50% even if the system is 100% efficient, so your 10 degC air becomes 16degC.

The smaller ones use a convoluted surface, to transfer heat between the two air flows. The larger commercial ones use a massive heavy revolving alloy wheel - even these only manage 30% efficiency in heat transfer.

These things are never 100% efficient, especially not the tiny ones, so draw your own conclusions.

One further point to consider - At the moment I'm measuring an indoor humidity of 34% and an outdoor one of 81%. Drawing that moist air into the house would make it much more moist.

Stay away from schemes which make ridiculous efficiency claims.

Pistonbroke666 · 24th February 2015, 10:19

Quote:

Originally Posted by HarryM1BYT

I tend to stay away from companies with a big advertising budget and that company seems to have a massive advertising budget

The end customer pays...

Find out where the moisture is being put into your homes environment and tackle it at source. Lids on pans, cooker hoods, bathroom extract fans - all relatively cheap fixes.

I've been trying to suss out the source.
I cook with the extractor fan on and open the kitchen window when necessary.
I keep the bathroom door closed and the extractor fan stays on for a while.
I shall keep searching...

HarryM1BYT · 24th February 2015, 10:28

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pistonbroke666

I've been trying to suss out the source.
I cook with the extractor fan on and open the kitchen window when necessary.
I keep the bathroom door closed and the extractor fan stays on for a while.
I shall keep searching...

How do you dry washing?

Polly · 24th February 2015, 11:39

I'm intrigued by why one room is significantly colder than the remainder of the house.
I know the room will FEEL colder if it's damp, but IS it colder, and if so why?
Am I correct in thinking the room is heated by a central heating radiator? Does it work correctly? Many people touch the top of a radiator, and say yes it's lovely and warm, but the proper test, is touch the bottom. Is the whole of the radiator hot?

lady zed · 24th February 2015, 11:52

Quote:

Originally Posted by Polly

I'm intrigued by why one room is significantly colder than the remainder of the house.
I know the room will FEEL colder if it's damp, but IS it colder, and if so why?
Am I correct in thinking the room is heated by a central heating radiator? Does it work correctly? Many people touch the top of a radiator, and say yes it's lovely and warm, but the proper test, is touch the bottom. Is the whole of the radiator hot?

Yes the radiator works properly and is burning hot all over. It's position isn't great, obviously to save money the previous owners had it installed just inside the room instead of underneath one of the windows (there are 2, dual aspect). I'm considering converting it into 2 bedrooms, it's currently a good sized double, could make 2 small singles, both with their own window. That would involve re-siting the radiator and installing another one. Would probably solve the cold issue, not sure about the mould though

Phil th Barrow · 24th February 2015, 12:04

Quote:

Originally Posted by scooterchick

Has anyone had it removed and how much did it cost?

I had it put in nearly 5 years ago and it's the worst thing I ever did. Since it went in I'm plagued with black mold in the bedrooms, it's dreadful. I've been in this house nearly 15 years and didn't have any damp issues before the cavity walls were done. And needless to say my little boys bedroom is the worst, plus it's freezing

I feel for you. Not pleasant at all.. There as been a lot of sound advice on thread.

My take is this. I was a builder for 15 years. So in my opinion I wouldn't recommend wall insulation ever. It stops th house from breathing. Iv seen many neighbours and friends regret my advice.

Mold is caused by moist warm air condensing its water out on a cold surface.

Iv rented and owned property also and had problems due to this when its occupied. I fitted some cleaver vents that only let out warm moist air but no cold in, with success. One difficulty I came across though was also explaining that how people should treat there house's. Some don't heat all th house equally (ish) so less chance of cold condensing area's. Open windows and have extractor fan going when you have a shower/bath. Don't dry clothes on radiators. Vent kitchen when cooking and washer/drying.

One thing we carnt control is th pint or so of water we expel every night in our breath.

Because im a bit obsessive about moister I have in every room a temperature and humidity readers. Mine at this time are reading between 31 and 42 % relative humidity. Outside its 78% (Down side my tongue is some times stuck to roof of mouth on awakening!!!

) Yes this is to dry I hear you all say and I agree but a dry house is a warm healthy house.

Regarding wall insulation removal.... Sadly I would not be willing to take such a job on at any price if I were to guarantee total removal.

My advice would be to warm and vent house as efficiently as you can.
Too slow mold I would use weak mixture of bleach in water using rubber gloves of course. Test bleach water mix on a un seen place first to check for no adverse reaction.

Good luck

Phil

24th February 2015, 09:30	#23
HarryM1BYT This is my second home 75 Contemporary SE Mk II 2004 Man. Sal. CDTi 135ps, FBH on red diesel, WinCE6 DD Join Date: May 2010 Location: Leeds Posts: 17,273 Thanks: 2,160 Thanked 2,061 Times in 1,586 Posts	CWI is working fine here.... What was a cold, damp and draughty 1950 semi. It was always cold - winter was a matter of huddling around a gas fire and mold on some walls ice formed on the inside of the glass. The cavity was cleared of debris in around 1980 and CH installed around 1985. It was warmer with the CH, but not entirely comfortable, due to the cold windows and walls. I had installed alloy DG around 1987, that was renewed around 4 years ago. Blown CWI installed in around 1995.. Over the years, I added forced ventilation, at locations moisture was created and stopped any clothes being dried in the main house. Cooker hood and an automatic bathroom fan, utility room with drying lines, a dehumidifier and an air circulation fan. Clothes on the drying lines dry over night, avoiding the need to use the dryer. The utility is a double brick add on, no cavity, but with its own radiator. A dehumidifier is essential to prevent mold forming when drying clothes in there. It takes several pints out a night, when the lines are full. A wall mounted oscillating desk fan, ensures the dried air is circulated around the room. The CH barely fires now, even in the very coldest weather. My weather station logs the inside temperature - with the CH shutting off at midnight to 8am, even with it sub zero outside, the indoor temperature rarely drops more than 1 deg C. Indoor humidity is always recorded between 30 and 40 percent. The house is warm through out, none of the cold outside walls we used to suffer. The gas fire hasn't been used in 30 years, apart from to test. It is no good sealing a house up and hoping for the best. Moisture has to be pumped out at source or deliberately condensed out to drain (dehumidifiers). __________________ Harry How To's and items I offer for free, or just to cover the cost of my expenses... http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...40#post1764540 Fix a poor handbrake; DIY ABS diagnostic unit; Loan of the spanner needed to change the CDT belts; free OBD diagnostics +MAF; Correct Bosch MAF cheap; DVB-T install in an ex-hi-line system; DD install with a HK amp; FBH servicing. I've taken a vow of poverty. To annoy me, send money. Last edited by HarryM1BYT; 24th February 2015 at 09:34..

24th February 2015, 10:11	#25
HarryM1BYT This is my second home 75 Contemporary SE Mk II 2004 Man. Sal. CDTi 135ps, FBH on red diesel, WinCE6 DD Join Date: May 2010 Location: Leeds Posts: 17,273 Thanks: 2,160 Thanked 2,061 Times in 1,586 Posts	When looking at passive heat recovery, its worth looking at how it actually works.. Extracted warm air is used to warm a surface and the cold incoming air is passed along the other side of that surface gaining some heat along the way. So lets suppose the extracted air is at 22degC and the cold incoming air 10degC, the best you can expect is a rise of 50% even if the system is 100% efficient, so your 10 degC air becomes 16degC. The smaller ones use a convoluted surface, to transfer heat between the two air flows. The larger commercial ones use a massive heavy revolving alloy wheel - even these only manage 30% efficiency in heat transfer. These things are never 100% efficient, especially not the tiny ones, so draw your own conclusions. One further point to consider - At the moment I'm measuring an indoor humidity of 34% and an outdoor one of 81%. Drawing that moist air into the house would make it much more moist. Stay away from schemes which make ridiculous efficiency claims. __________________ Harry How To's and items I offer for free, or just to cover the cost of my expenses... http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...40#post1764540 Fix a poor handbrake; DIY ABS diagnostic unit; Loan of the spanner needed to change the CDT belts; free OBD diagnostics +MAF; Correct Bosch MAF cheap; DVB-T install in an ex-hi-line system; DD install with a HK amp; FBH servicing. I've taken a vow of poverty. To annoy me, send money.

23rd February 2015, 22:12	#21
Gemsathome Loves to post MG ZT-T Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: Staines Posts: 433 Thanks: 138 Thanked 105 Times in 89 Posts	There's been some excellent advice here. I would also add, as an estate agent of 28 years, we see damp around windows all the time, which can be caused by a) poor fit or b) unsuitable material i.e old double glazed plastic coated aluminium. Once the moisture is in the room with heating on, evaporation takes the warmer moist air to congregate at the coldest points, often corners or tops of walls. Similarly, check your loft insulation, if the material is damp or there are signs of moisture running off the roof felt against the tiles, your loft may need vents to allow the moisture to disperse. (Please wear gloves if you are touching fibreglass insulation). One final point, some PVC soffat companies, as Dave alluded to with cwi engineers, are paid bonus to whack plastic soffat/barge boards under the roof line without always putting in air vents. This happened to my father in law and his loft roof felt was running like it was dipped in water, he paid £1200.00 for additional roof and wall vents all over his bungalow to vent it. Awful for you and your kids, it may also be worth speaking to the regulatory body to see if they can recommend a free visit from a reputable CWI installer who can assess the overall problems with your house. Good luck, Mike

24th February 2015, 07:55	#22
Pistonbroke666 Posted a thing or two MG ZT 1.8T, MG GS Exclusive Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Grays Essex Posts: 1,809 Thanks: 100 Thanked 282 Times in 205 Posts	This has been a very interesting read. I live in a terraced, 20 year old house that's had cavity wall insulation and double glazing fitted in the last 5 years by the previous owner. Condensation is a problem - I've been using a mini dehumidifier to keep the mould at bay but it's not a long term solution. The following link takes you to a firm that sells ventilation gear. Any recommendations? http://www.envirovent.com/home-venti...uld-solutions/

24th February 2015, 11:39	#28
Polly Posted a thing or two MG ZT 260 SE, ZS120, ZR105 Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Peterhead Posts: 1,375 Thanks: 203 Thanked 350 Times in 241 Posts	I'm intrigued by why one room is significantly colder than the remainder of the house. I know the room will FEEL colder if it's damp, but IS it colder, and if so why? Am I correct in thinking the room is heated by a central heating radiator? Does it work correctly? Many people touch the top of a radiator, and say yes it's lovely and warm, but the proper test, is touch the bottom. Is the whole of the radiator hot?