KV6 crankshaft pulley

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by Ennine

... I do remember having the self same issue.

Thanks Nigel.

Originally Posted by mh007

Looks like It's been apart before looking at the crank pulley bolt & the tippex marks.

No it hasn't been apart before Mike. The first owner was elderly so all service was at an MG Rover main dealer. He provided all the invoices (the car was under 6 years old and low mileage).
What you've assumed is Tippex is actually chalk and I put that on to make it possible to see the 'Safe' mark.

Can you see any notch on the innermost part of the pulley?

No I can't.

Originally Posted by Arctic

Is it me or does this picture on rimmers show a notch about 1oclock
https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-LHG000070L

Thanks Steve and I also see a notch there on that Land Rover part.

Originally Posted by Jim Jamieson

I would try sanding the rust off the pulley.

What you see in the photo is after the wire brush treatment Jim but there's no evidence of any kind of marking.

I’ve just completed my timing belts on my V6 project with auto box.

Did your engine have a notch on the crankshaft ancillary belt pulley?

Originally Posted by Mike Noc

Just put the pulley bolt back in with a spacer (a large nut, some washers or a socket) and you can turn the engine to where you want it Simon.

Now why didn't I think of that? Thanks Mike!

Originally Posted by Lovel

With the crank pulley lined up with the Safe timing mark, I have found the speech bubble behind the pulley on the oil pump housing does not line up ...

Oh no, it gets worse!
Thanks for the link to your experience but I have a question. With your ancillary belt pulley lined up with the 'SAFE' arrow, could you insert the locking pin and were the camshafts' rear sprockets then lined up?

Simon

[Lovel]

Originally Posted by SD1too

Oh no, it gets worse!
Thanks for the link to your experience but I have a question. With your ancillary belt pulley lined up with the 'SAFE' arrow, could you insert the locking pin and were the camshafts' rear sprockets then lined up?

Simon

Yes the rear sprockets lined up with the locking pin engaged. Well almost
I was able to find some slack in between all the components and depending on the technique I used it was possible to improve the line up of the sprockets. In my link above, post #11 user Bolin suggests a technique to improve the alignment. However a tiny bit of misalignment is probably factored into the design and will not be detrimental as I could not imagine Professionals in the filed spending too much time on timing up the engine. Especillay when it is insitu.

It has apparently been experienced that the inner part of the crankshaft pulley has moved in relation to the inner as the rubber may have deteriorated hence the timing mark would be out if this were the case. So the best check will always be the flywheel locking pin IMO. Or theoretically a dial gauge on the piston tops would be even better!

[Jim Jamieson]

I’ve just checked mine and yes the notch is on the outer rim with the word Safe then I assume the part number of the pulley.

I’ve got mine all nicely painted as those who know me, I don’t do rusty surfaces

[marinabrian]

Originally Posted by SD1too

No, there's definitely supposed to be a notch on the ancillary belt pulley. It's described and illustrated in RAVE plus I have a photograph posted by a KV6 Freelander owner.

You're right Gordon that there's a notch on the crankshaft sprocket which aligns with the 'speech bubble' hidden behind the pulley. But once the pulley has been removed to expose this, it is no longer possible to turn the engine if the setting is wrong.

Simon

Not possible to turn the engine?

You simply refit the bolt with a suitable washer once you've removed the torsional vibration damper,and turn to your heart's content

Don't let that put you off

Brian

[Bolin]

My old (presumably original) pulley has the notch on the outer part, exactly as per the LR part.

Looking at your photos, it could be at about 1 o'clock or 5 o'clock. I suggest a bit more cleaning up and having a closer look and try running a fingernail all around.

As the others say, the locking pin is the most accurate way. MGR issued a Technical Bulletin or Tip instructing dealers to start using it (in 2002?). I did post somewhere about reasons why it is the most accurate way (less build up of manufacturing tolerances).

I have found inserting the pin a bit of a pain, it helps to shine a light and look to see if the hole on the DMF is aligned with the crankcase hole. Also, the pin doesn't go all the way in and stops at a random point. I stuck some tape around my pin when it was absolutely fully in so next time I know when it has gone far enough in.

If you need to borrow any of the KV6 tools just ask.

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by Bolin

My old (presumably original) pulley has the notch on the outer part, exactly as per the LR part ...

Thanks Colin. I seem to have something unusual then. There is no trace of any lettering on my pulley. I have performed the fingertip test several times! There is a tiny nick on the outer rim but with the rear sprockets on both banks perfectly aligned, this nick is 120 degrees in advance of the ‘SAFE’ arrow!

I have found inserting the pin a bit of a pain, it helps to shine a light ....Also, the pin doesn't go all the way in and stops at a random point. I stuck some tape around my pin ..

Thanks for these tips. The next task is to actually find the hole! Neither manual reveals what needs to be removed to expose it.

Simon

[kaiser]

There is a little line in the pulley, which is supposed to align with the safe mark.
The easiest is to let a helper press a locking pin into the hole, while you turn the pulley slowly.
The pulley is rusted, but I think your mark is 3 minutes past the white line on pic two. Clean - and all will be revealed!
And yes, of course the marks on the rear sprockets align(ish), if your engine is correctly timed!

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by kaiser

... but I think your mark is 3 minutes past the white line on pic two.

Three minutes? No, I can assure you kaiser that there is nothing there, but thanks for your interest.

Simon

[marinabrian]

Just a thought Simon, you may have the crankshaft 180 degrees past the mark, bearing in mind the valve gear runs at a different speed to the grankshaft, and you are looking at an alignment mark on the camshaft gear in your original post.

Why not remove the pulley, and clean it up properly to see if the mark isn't simply filled up with rust, and then if nothing else you will know if you are anywhere near as the "woodruff" key aspect of the timing gear will be pointing toward 27 minutes past the hour.

You seem to be proceeding with more caution than is strictly necessary, it won't bite you

Brian

[jn12]

Originally Posted by marinabrian

Just a thought Simon, you may have the crankshaft 180 degrees past the mark, bearing in mind the valve gear runs at a different speed to the grankshaft, and you are looking at an alignment mark on the camshaft gear in your original post.

Why not remove the pulley, and clean it up properly to see if the mark isn't simply filled up with rust, and then if nothing else you will know if you are anywhere near as the "woodruff" key aspect of the timing gear will be pointing toward 27 minutes past the hour.

You seem to be proceeding with more caution than is strictly necessary, it won't bite you

Brian

Take the pulley off for a look! It's in the way anyway

If you find the pulley does not have the mark for some bizarre reason, I have a good used one you can have FOC if you feel inclined to swap it.