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Old 11th November 2016, 11:10   #11
first-things-first
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If you need tools (have the caliper wind back tools) or advice, give me a shout.

If the pads and discs are OK, but just not pulling up well, a clean and re-grease does wonders to bring the power and feel back.
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Old 11th November 2016, 11:12   #12
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Our calipers don't need winding back.

Don't use copper grease for sliders - use proper brake grease.

It's an easy job.
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Old 12th November 2016, 14:09   #13
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Backs are a little trickier but still straight forward, its the adjusting the hand brake shoes just right
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Old 15th November 2016, 11:09   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EastPete View Post
Based on recent experience with my car, I would recommend cracking the bleed nipple before pushing the piston back, rather than forcing old fluid back up through the ABS module into the master cylinder - this can give rise to spongy or sinking pedal syndrome, that will need a T4 bleed to sort out. The Haynes and official Rover manuals recommend this method.

Good luck -let us know how you get on

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Never thought of this one before... certainly one i'll take up in the future, i always re-bleed the lines after doing pads/discs anyway and replace the entire fluid using a pressure bleeder.
Not had any sinking pedal issues yet!
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Old 15th November 2016, 17:34   #15
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made a start today guys, got all four discs off without much trouble, one disc had actually broken into two pieces! This is on the 75 I'm restoring that had been stood for 5 years. Painted up the calipers and back plates with hammerite paint, leaving that over night to dry before fitting the pads tomorrow.

Thanks for all the help, really appreciate it
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Old 15th November 2016, 20:54   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arctic View Post
Imake sure you have a 7mm Allen key . Arctic

That's useful to know, I have 2 sets of Allen Keys and neither set has a 7mm key.... must buy one as I'm sure my pads will need changing one day....
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Old 17th November 2016, 12:08   #17
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Done the brakes and painted up the calipers, posted some pics here http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...35#post2400335

Thanks for the help all
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Old 30th November 2016, 18:52   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arctic View Post
I have quite a few photo's on the subject just never got round to doing the how to, but one little bit of advise make sure you have a 7mm Allen key and use good quality 6 sided 13mm and 15mm ring spanners or sockets.

You will also need a 5o torx, some cable ties, to hold the caliper up and out of the way while changing the discs and pads clean the sliders, brake shoes and back plates while you have the rear disc drum off.

If I get tine over the next few days I will try and load up the pics for you, but I am sure an how to as been done already. Arctic
I am doing this soon. Any suggestions where to get the good quality 6 sided ring spanners? I have all the other tools, and some irwin bolt grip things in case.

Last edited by Caulkhead; 30th November 2016 at 18:53.. Reason: Spelling
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Old 30th November 2016, 19:20   #19
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I was looking at these recently, you can buy singly to save some money:

http://www.gibbtools.com/block.php?block_id=7007

Laser do a set of combination spanners too for about £50 on Amazon
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Old 6th December 2016, 10:08   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sheraton View Post
the how-to's on here for the brakes are not the easiest to follow (no disrespect ) - i think i looked at the Haynes before doing my rear discs/pads.

it's an easy enough job - but it's nice to know what to expect before tackling these things - especially with brakes

I found a vid showing the process (on a 75) - i'm sure i done things slightly different to these guys (r.e removing the caliper etc..) but it's good for a visualisation of the task


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OZiC1nwpHbM



Paul.
Just done this and agree the how to is really not much help. No mention of the difficulty of accessing the calliper bolts or danger of rounding off etc.

The video is much better, and helps with adjusting the handbrake to help remove the disc and reset after new disc is on.

I removed the calliper before trying to remove the carrier, this gave better access to the difficult to get at carrier bolts. With the aid of a 'good' six sided spanner and a tap from a hammer they came out quite easily.

Hope Atctic does a new how to soon, as the current one is (imho based on experience of doing the job) likely to lead to members having problems.

I am only 65 and look forward to doing the job again in a few years time! But compared to brake light switch it was a doddle!
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