Cost of replacing an oil seal

[Avulon]

It'll be obvious to many here that the gear oil will need draining before removing the drive shaft from the housing - (or maybe I'm wrong) - for the sake of completeness and for the unitiated it might do to just insert

'drain gearbox'

somewhere into the instructions and later on....

'refill gearbox'



Excellent set of instructions Brian (barring the ommision) I do wonder how much tea and biscuit flew across the room at the mention of a £430 3/4" drive torque wrench though. I mean, 3/4" It's not a combine harvester or ships engine room! I rarely even find the need for 1/2" sockets. At £430 might be cheaper to buy a new car....

[Jakg]

Originally Posted by Avulon

Excellent set of instructions Brian (barring the ommision) I do wonder how much tea and biscuit flew across the room at the mention of a £430 3/4" drive torque wrench though. I mean, 3/4" It's not a combine harvester or ships engine room! I rarely even find the need for 1/2" sockets. At £430 might be cheaper to buy a new car....

If you need to do something up tight, it's your only choice... driveshaft nuts on my Megane are 280nm and it's the cheapest way I could find of doing them up.

Makes tightening up everything else easier though as it's much longer.

[macafee2]

Originally Posted by Avulon

It'll be obvious to many here that the gear oil will need draining before removing the drive shaft from the housing - (or maybe I'm wrong) - for the sake of completeness and for the unitiated it might do to just insert

'drain gearbox'

somewhere into the instructions and later on....

'refill gearbox'



Excellent set of instructions Brian (barring the ommision) I do wonder how much tea and biscuit flew across the room at the mention of a £430 3/4" drive torque wrench though. I mean, 3/4" It's not a combine harvester or ships engine room! I rarely even find the need for 1/2" sockets. At £430 might be cheaper to buy a new car....

£430? £230. I think £213 is the cheapest

macafee2

[marinabrian]

Originally Posted by Avulon

It'll be obvious to many here that the gear oil will need draining before removing the drive shaft from the housing - (or maybe I'm wrong) - for the sake of completeness and for the unitiated it might do to just insert

'drain gearbox'

somewhere into the instructions and later on....

'refill gearbox'



Excellent set of instructions Brian (barring the ommision) I do wonder how much tea and biscuit flew across the room at the mention of a £430 3/4" drive torque wrench though. I mean, 3/4" It's not a combine harvester or ships engine room! I rarely even find the need for 1/2" sockets. At £430 might be cheaper to buy a new car....

Have another read

I mention placing a clean container under the diff to collect any oil that is lost during removal of the shaft, refilling that into the gearbox once reassembled, then after a test drive to ensure all is oil tight, to drain the gearbox completely and refill with fresh oil.

The reasoning behind this is not wasting a couple of litres of new MTF94 if you don't succeed in curing the leak when replacing the seal.

I am a tightwad after all

In respect of the bottom ball joint the exhaust U clamp is fixed around the bottom arm and a bar placed underneath the lower arm through the exhaust clamp then downward force applied to the bar which will separate the bottom balljoint without risk of damage to the joint or it's rubber boot.

The track rod end, which doesn't necessarily need to be removed. if you don't possess a decent ball joint splitter, another wizard wheeze is to apply a little downward force to the joint with a bar placed over the top of the track rod end and acting under the centre subframe mounting bolt after slackening, but not completely removing the nut.

A sharp tap to the cast iron ring it passes through on the swivel hub with a suitably sized hammer will shock it sufficiently to break the joint without damage to the track rod end or it's gaiter

Anyway enough of the frivolity, I'm sure there is enough wiggle room to manoeuvre the outer CV joint from the drive flange without the need to remove the track rod end

Brian

[macafee2]

Things not going to well, pinch bolt has seized. I have the nut undone and I assume the pinch bolt does not locate in a slot in the lower arm. I think there is a thread where another member had the same problem and had to remove the suspension.
I need to follow that thread as he cut the bolt then used a drift to remove it. This could be the way I will have to go. I was not prepared for this so wish me luck.
Will try again today to remove pinch bolt. Time is not on my side.
Caravan booked in for service and a weekend away all depends on my car being up and running. Aint going anywhere this weekend of for the foreseeable future

macafee2

[Avulon]

Originally Posted by marinabrian

Have another read

...

Brian

Sorry, was speed reading .... tightwad? saving money for hobnobs I hope

[Avulon]

I can find a Teng torque wrench 90-450Nm at £158 and that's Halfords price.

[macafee2]

Originally Posted by Avulon

I can find a Teng torque wrench 90-450Nm at £158 and that's Halfords price.

Don't tell my wife I ordered a Draper one and as she could not get it cheaper then £213 I got away with ordering it.

macafee2

[macafee2]

Thing now going well, pinch bolt out and parts arrived today.

macafee2