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Old 15th February 2017, 16:47   #1
zaph
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Default Can't get new auxiliary driver belt on CDi

Replaced the alternator and found a chunk missing from old belt. Bought replacement belt from discount rover supplies, along with a new idler.

The problem is the belt is not even close to going on. It is the correct part number, but the amount of movement I can get with a ground down aerospace spanner on the tensoner is not enough to get it over any of the pulleys. Which ever pulley I try I have only enough slack to get round the top half of the pulley at most.

The spanner is fouling on the subframe, so there maybe more movement in the tensioner. Any ideas?
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Old 15th February 2017, 16:56   #2
HarryM1BYT
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Your suggestion that the tensioner may have more movement seems the most likely explanation. It can be difficult to get into place, have you checked if you are fitting it to the pulleys in the easiest order? There have been a few write ups of how to do it.

Have you compared the old, with the new?
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Old 15th February 2017, 17:02   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zaph View Post
Replaced the alternator and found a chunk missing from old belt. Bought replacement belt from discount rover supplies, along with a new idler.

The problem is the belt is not even close to going on. It is the correct part number, but the amount of movement I can get with a ground down aerospace spanner on the tensoner is not enough to get it over any of the pulleys. Which ever pulley I try I have only enough slack to get round the top half of the pulley at most.

The spanner is fouling on the subframe, so there maybe more movement in the tensioner. Any ideas?
I had the same problem - when tackling this from under the wheel arch there is not enough room to move the spanner through a decent arc to free the tensioner. The Rover special tool spanner has a kink in it to allow it to clear the subframe. What I do is attack the tensioner from above- you have to support the engine under the sump, then remove the upper OS engine mount (that goes over the hydramount), and ideally the tie bar that goes onto the inner wing from the engine mount, then you have lots of room to swing the spanner right back towards the bulkhead and free the tensioner off completely. I have never been successful trying to do the belts by accessing the tensioner from under the wheel arch.

Good luck

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Old 15th February 2017, 17:07   #4
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I've an adapted spanner I use to fit the belt but I release the tensioner from the top & it fits on easier. I know you say it's the correct part number have you compared the belt length to the old one?
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Old 15th February 2017, 17:10   #5
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No experience of a 75 but I did this job on my Megane recently.

There was a little link pin that goes through the tensioner to hold it in place when fully retracted.

I then had to loosen one and remove the rest of the bolts securing the tensioner to the engine, and then used the bolt head on the front of the tensioner to lever it back a bit further.

This gave me (just!) enough slack to put the belt on.

With the belt fully installed I could then put it all back and do the bolts up.
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Old 15th February 2017, 23:03   #6
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It's a bit naughty but my car was off the road.

Line the belt up... Around pulleys etc so it is just around the crank. Put a beefy screw driver between belt and pulley ... Then rotate crank to pull belt on.


A none approved method granted but needs must. Belt pulled on nicely on my second go at this.
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Old 16th February 2017, 13:10   #7
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I've an adapted spanner I use to fit the belt but I release the tensioner from the top & it fits on easier. I know you say it's the correct part number have you compared the belt length to the old one?
I use a home made spanner, applied from below. The spanner is made from a cut off end of a socket, welded onto a flat strip of bar, end of bar has some thin rope attached. That gives ample swing and once under tension can be tied to free both hands to fit the belt. A thin wedge is needed to make sure the spanner stays on the bolt head, between spanner and inner wing.
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Old 16th February 2017, 13:13   #8
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Copied from one of my previous posts:

I recently removed the belts to remove the alternator to fit new brushes and slip rings. I used a 24mm Teng combination spanner. There was just enough clearance to slide the ring end of the spanner between the tensioner bolt and the chassis. I had a piece of flat mild steel that was a perfect fit between the spanner ring and the chassis so I slid it into the gap. I used strong string from a hole in the mild steel to somewhere vertically above on the engine to stop the mild steel dropping out. I then used a ratchet strap between the open end of the spanner and the chassis to release the belt tension. It was very secure.

To clarify, I looped the strap round the shank of the spanner as close to the open end as I could get it. Don't put it in the U of the spanner as it may slip off. A strong pull was required to release the belt tension but the ratchet strap was easily capable of generating and holding the required pull. I released the ratchet strap after unseating the belts.
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Old 16th February 2017, 15:13   #9
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Getting the belt onto all the pulleys and then as much onto crank pulley as possible and then rotating the engine by hand to get the belt fully on is a good cheat method.

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Old 16th February 2017, 16:55   #10
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Have you loosened the alternator adjustment? (I think you can do that on these)
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