Cooling Fan Not Working - P0481 Error

[Aldeburgh]

Thanks, Simon. Will let you know how I get on! Won't be today though as it's granddaughter's birthday

[Aldeburgh]

Hi Simon,
I've got the bumper off this morning and the first thing I've found is that the fan blades are just sort of flapping about! Clearly something has come off somewhere. I'll see what else I can find.

[vitesse]

Remove the fan blades and re-test with Toaf and remember to move the slider.

Regards

Rimmer's still have new fan blades https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-PGG100932, although not supposed to reuse I do and have at least four used ones in the attic

[Aldeburgh]

Thanks - I have done that now. Tested both speeds in TOAF and could here the relay clicking on both occasions. However, there was no sign of life from the fan.

Also did the VIS balance and got the required eight clicks.

[vitesse]

Originally Posted by Aldeburgh

Thanks - I have done that now. Tested both speeds in TOAF and could here the relay clicking on both occasions. However, there was no sign of life from the fan.

Also did the VIS balance and got the required eight clicks.

Doesn't sound too positive, you could always try opening the control box and substituting the relays but I've always found them quite reliable. The two speed fan motors I've opened in the past have all had good brushes, compared to the three speed fans, but if substituting relays doesn't help then I think you'll have to open the fan motor and have a look. Arctic has a how to video on Youtube. You did move the slider midway I hope?

Sorry, don't understand the balance and eight clicks. You should hear 4 sweeps, a sort of wish/wash sound as the motor runs and completes its sweep, just clicking usually indicates that it's dead. Have you tried the power motor?

Regards

[Aldeburgh]

Thanks - looks like I'm going to need to take the rest of the front off to get to the fan. I can then try some more tests like applying voltage direct etc.

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by SD1too

But if everything is intact we'll get started on some electrical measurements.

Hi Richard,

When you have access to the control box locate the small relay and place your positive meter probe on the relay terminal with a thick purple wire. Connect the black meter probe to battery negative.

Do you see +12v? It's not necessary to switch on the ignition or have the engine running.

If you get nothing, move the positive meter probe to one of the two thick black wires on the LARGE relay base. Do you see +12v? If not, move the probe to the other THICK black wire. Is there +12v shown now?

If you don't get anything locate the blue/red thin wire on the LARGE relay base. Connect this to battery negative then switch on the ignition. Does the relay click followed by the fan motor running noisily? If not you'll have to open it up to find out why.

Richard, I'd advise you NOT to attempt applying voltage directly unless you understand how the circuit works. Besides, the current involved is huge and we don't want any fireworks!

Best wishes,

Simon

[Arctic]

Hi Richard.
You can re-connect the fan blade with a grub screw for security once you have twisted the fab blade back on, i have done the same security job on all the refurbished fans i have at the moment.

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You will need a thin walled 15mm socket to fix the fan blade back on.

[Aldeburgh]

Thanks for all the tips so far. It's taken until now to get the slam panel off (Torx bolts were stripped plus a couple of extra bolts at the bottom (it's an Auto so I'm guessing ATF cooler)) but I couldn't have done it without your guide. Will update when I've got to control box.

[Aldeburgh]

Right, latest news.

I've got down to behind the fan now and it looks a right mess:


As you can see it's very rusty and it appears to have been rubbing against the A/C condenser/radiator as there are loads of "shavings" from that around. There was no gas in the a/c system when I took the pipes off.

I did the first of the suggested voltage tests. Thick purple wire to -ve terminal was roughly 10 volts.

Given the state of the fan (and my general lack of fitness) would a new one work if I just swapped it in? And should I fit a new condenser while I'm there?