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11th September 2013, 22:42 | #1 |
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powerflex front arm rear bush how to guide
just fitted my self some new powerflex bushes to my front suspension arms. here are some pics and some info on how to tackle the job. this job requires quite a lot of tools and reasonable mechanical skills. please use a proper hydraulic jack and some axle stands to be safe when under the car.
1: jack vehicle up remove wheel and rest on axlestand on front subframe. the bushes being replaced in this guide are the front wishbone rear bushes. 2: remove the 2 18mm bolts securing the bush casing to the subframe. i found it easiest using a flex end ratchet spanner. it allowed me perfect access. if the bolts are too tight lock another spanner on the end to increase your leverage. 1 of my bolts was extremely tight and the spanners slipped. these cars bite back so be careful 3: you then need to slide the bush off of the wishbone. they do not rotate because there is a hexagon on the arm and in the bush. the only way to remove is with brute force and ignorance. i normally just cut them off with an angle grinder but when using powerflex bushes you need to keep the casings. i tried using hammer and chisel to knock the bushes off the arms but it does not work. the easiest way is to lubricate with wd40 then use a big bar to prise them off. im lucky enough to have a massive gorilla bar. 4:with bushes removed you then need to remove the inner rubber bush from the steel casing. i dont have a press but luckily the outer layer of the rubber bush is only plastic. so i cut in 2 places using a junior hacksaw blade. this relieved the tension and enabled them to be beat out with a hammer and a bit of pipe and/or chisel 5: once the old bush is out your now ready to fit the outer casing of the powerflex. initially i used fairy liquid and tried to press the bush in using a vice. it was not working and was only going to damage the bush. so i found it easier to powerfile/file the leading edge of the casing to allow the new bush better access and less chance of cutting it. i still used fairy liquid. do not use oil or grease as the bush may slip. fairy liquid dries out and has no lasting effect on the bush. i used a vice and a piece of wood and it easily went in. make sure the rib of the bush is fully pushed through all the way round. also make sure you get the bush in the correct way round as pictured 6: now you need to fit the purple part of the bush to the lower arm. it simply taps on with light use of a hammer and a socket. be sure to hit it as far as it goes. do not lubricate it. note: the fatter end goes toward the front. 7: now put copper grease in the outer casing of the bush and fit it on. it slides easily into place over the purple bush. refit the 2 18mm bolts and tighten. once both sides are done refit wheels and it may be worth checking the wheel alignment as a final measure. the first bush i did took about 3 hours but the second took about 1.5 hours. but with this guide and know how hopefully you can do it more easily. hope it helps Disclaimer: You are responsible for any work or modifications carried out on your car and you undertake any such work at your own risk. Neither The 75 and ZT Owners Club nor the original author of these How-To's can be held liable for anything that may happen as a result of you following these How-To's. Any modifications should be reported to your insurance company.
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11th September 2013, 23:02 | #2 |
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Nice one Gary Thank you
Copied to here for posterity Thread has been moved to the General Forum as it is not a request for Help. However the How To has a link back to the live thread
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12th September 2013, 06:29 | #3 |
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That is fantastic, I recently changed mine for eBay cheapie ones, if it turns out they don't last I will certainly give them a try.
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12th September 2013, 09:15 | #4 |
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Front Control Arm rear bushes
A Good How To but i would advise that the bolts on each housing are so tight that, if they were done up by the factory
it is likely that a ratchet spanner will break if used to loosen them. I would advise an angle headed ring spanner to start them off and then use the flexi headed ratchet spanner to undo them completely. (I had to use a two foot length of scaffold pole as extra leverage to undo my bolts). Last edited by wuzerk; 12th September 2013 at 09:19.. |
12th September 2013, 09:49 | #5 |
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mg zt-t 190 lpg Join Date: Jan 2013
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ride
Not driven it.yet. literally done them last night in the rain under the gazebo. Will report back on ride comfort. I changed them because one started to make a sqeaking noise as the suspension moved.
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12th September 2013, 13:09 | #6 |
Precise
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RAVE Torque figure for the two bolts is 150Nm, perhaps for a purpose?
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12th September 2013, 15:57 | #7 | ||
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Quote:
Quote:
Are you still going to Sunday's meet?
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Previously owned- MG ZT V6 160 Y plate Lpg, MG ZT 190 2003 In Rare Celestial Factory Ordered Lpg MG ZT 190 2004 lpg Last edited by Dragrad; 5th March 2015 at 23:37.. Reason: Consecutive posts - Use the edit ;-) |
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12th September 2013, 21:04 | #8 |
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See post #2 (as quoted by your good self)
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12th September 2013, 21:16 | #9 |
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There was talk of someone seeing "daylight" through the powerflex bushes a while back and some folk were shocked & surprised but it's quite normal!
If you put the steering on full lock, the geometry is such that the lower arm end has to move towards the edge of the bush housing. Something has to flex to allow for the castor angle and the softest item in the geometry chain in the bush whichever type it is. Try it on full lock and observe what happens
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12th September 2013, 22:23 | #10 | |
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Quote:
See the light: http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...d.php?t=123419 TC |
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