Upper rear arm fail @ 3 years!!!!!

[minimutly]

I changed two sets of rear upper arms three and something years ago. My daughters turbo zt, which had failed, them mine as a precaution.
Well recently while up in North Wales I looked long and hard at my rear wheel.
It was pointing out, and leaning in at the top, guessing 4 degrees or more.
I took the wheel off and had a look at the arm, it had surface rust all over but looked OK. So I made a wire template, following the curve allong the side of the front seam and compared it to my daughters now unused version. That confirmed it, arm buckled.
So I changed the arm, job sorted.
Now, I know parts aren't what they were, but (just under) 3 years? These were bought from a leading Rover (and other BL makes) retailer, cost £99 each, and I would have expected 10 years minimum?

[roverbarmy]

Must have failed the Mr Kipling test methinks!

[marinabrian]

The Indian arms are not fit for purpose as supplied.......end of story..........

Hopefully the new supplier will be better quality, I'm holding off replacing a pair on Mrs MB's car until I've had a chance to inspect the new stock when it arrives.

Brian

[stocktake]

Wow, that would imply that no amount of protection against rust would help extend the life of something that is simply not up to the job from the start.

[marinabrian]

Originally Posted by stocktake

Wow, that would imply that no amount of protection against rust would help extend the life of something that is simply not up to the job from the start.

Dave, the Mr Kipling test alludes to the go/no go gauge I made from the top of a jam tart box.

This was to demonstrate to the QA department at XPart the fact that of nine spot welds securing the two halves of the arm together at the outboard end of the arm, none were actually connected.





https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/a...1&d=1576007878



I spent hours fettling, reshaping shaping and welding these arms before I was prepared to fit them to my own car, and that was only after I'd painted them properly.

When paying for genuine parts, the premium you pay should ensure they are of sufficient quality to be fitted out of the bag.............not the case here

Brian

[mbonwick]

I filled as much of the gap on mine up with weld, will be nowhere near the quality of what Brian did, but hopefully might help....

[Blink]

Originally Posted by minimutly

.... I looked long and hard at my rear wheel. It was pointing out, and leaning in at the top, guessing 4 degrees or more.
I took the wheel off and had a look at the arm, it had surface rust all over but looked OK. So I made a wire template, following the curve allong the side of the front seam and compared it to my daughters now unused version. That confirmed it, arm buckled. ....

Have you got any pics of the buckled arm?

[Comfortably Numb]

Watching this, as I recently fitted a Rimmer's upper arm. Car seems to be behaving.

[minimutly]

Originally Posted by Comfortably Numb

Watching this, as I recently fitted a Rimmer's upper arm. Car seems to be behaving.

It will be fine for 3 years, or possibly longer if its a Rover rather than an MG.

[minimutly]

Originally Posted by Blink

Have you got any pics of the buckled arm?

No, but I could take one - not much to see though, it looks like any three yr old arm that relied on factory paint protection, just that the normal curve is slightly exaggerated - hard to see with the naked eye.