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12th May 2021, 09:30 | #71 |
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Simon, this is wholly incorrect. It is dangerous to suggest also that you have proved mgr and their advisors (who would have been engineers in synthetic rubber manufacturer and production for automotive applications) incorrect.
You have had experience of one vehicle driven by mainly you, with your own service regime and driving style. And I have said it before, I have done precisely the same as you, and in fact, I have never changed a cam belt on any car I have had, except for necessity. But not for one minute would I suggest I proved a schedule to be incorrect or advise others on a critical element. The drop link is not a critical element of the suspension (in the event of a failure). It is for this reason that an educated guess can be advised at the level of torque to be applied to the drop link. I urge you to obtain some practical experience with fitting the drop link and you will appreciate where everyone is coming from in its fitment. This has drawn on for weeks now, with only your theoretical arguments against (I am trying to avoid sounding like brian, but I now understand his frustration). The struts can be fitted with the drop link in place, and is as easy to do as fitting the strut without. On assembley, it would have been done in this way, but with as a complete subframe.assembley. My current thinking is that you should leave your car at a competent garage, who will have the experience and tools to do the job. At least this way you will have recourse should it fail in service. Sent from my SM-A600FN using Tapatalk
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12th May 2021, 10:03 | #72 | |
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A cable tie or a couple of turns of masking tape to lash it to the leg makes it behave.
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12th May 2021, 10:37 | #73 | |
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It really is that simple Simon, You will have to list it in your lessons learned for next time. If I change a spring I usually remove/grease and refit the drop link to ensure easier removal should they need changing Fitting a drop link on the car is more awkward, as others have said cutting thread off makes this achievable and providing it clears the locknut is an acceptable practice. As for tightness providing the tension is within the elastic limit of the bolt torque is not critical , again an acceptable practice To most people they are a fit and forget until they start rattling again with a worn out ball due to either lack of grease or poor manufacture Last edited by TourerSteve; 12th May 2021 at 10:45.. |
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12th May 2021, 12:06 | #74 | |
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12th May 2021, 13:06 | #75 | |||
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In any case, as you say, this doesn't help when the time comes to remove the link. Shortening the link's thread may work on the nearside but it won't on the offside. I'm saying that a crow's foot attachment is a better choice because it doesn't require shortening the thread and it enables the use of a torque wrench so, if you'll forgive the pun, it kills two birds with one stone! Simon
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12th May 2021, 13:10 | #76 | |
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This thread is about the anti-roll bar links. Can I ask you to refrain from posting off-topic please? You will find the answer to your point in the archive but since you have a diesel, are you really interested in this? Simon
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12th May 2021, 14:30 | #77 | |
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I wasnt aware that you were replacing two broken springs and the Bush. But Now I am.eeven more at a loss at your issue of torquing down the drop link. If you are replacing the spring, the strut will.have been removed. Remo al of the strut means youhave full access to.the strut and it can now be adequately torqued to within 2 or 3 per cent of the required torque. My comment was not meant to be disrespectful, it was meant as genuine advice, as this post was made out of a lack of confidence (which is what I do when I do not have the confidence). It has stretched on so much now, that even with the similar advice of many, youare choosing to refuse. This suggests you no longer have the confidence in others,who have the experience of fitting these items. A third party (a garage) who will have the experience.and more importantly, the liability insurance, would therefore be a better place to go. Sent from my SM-A600FN using Tapatalk
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12th May 2021, 19:16 | #78 | |
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I accept the fact though that we're all getting old. and grouchy. PS. I'm a solid forum member and as such I'm interested in ALL forum posts.----I don't discriminate in any way at all.--- Last edited by COLVERT; 12th May 2021 at 19:24.. |
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13th May 2021, 06:24 | #79 | |
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Really You don’t even need it in the vice, you could have just compressed your spring Sat the spring on the floor and positioned your strut through the spring ,the way I changed a front spring on a VW a couple of months ago , Either way you you had the opportunity to easily fit the drop links while the spring was removed Last edited by TourerSteve; 13th May 2021 at 06:29.. |
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14th May 2021, 06:26 | #80 |
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I cant recommend a particular make of drop link, Though I am happy to tell you how I have got around the problems.
where the thread is too long I have cut the excess of with a 1mm cutting disc then using a taper cone cutter make a quick buzz down the top of the threads making starting the nut a breeze. I have a set of thin walled 3/8 drive crows feet spanners which are fantastic for holding the hex on the threaded part of the Joint. I have a set of American made thin "S" spanners and a set of offset crank spanners from the same tool company these are about half the thickness of a UK sold Spanner. I remember working at three Gyms that had 25 spin bikes each the boys needed some very walled spanners this was achieved with the bench grinder and we ground three sets of spanners made by Britool down until they were only 2.5mm thick this way each engineer had the correct tools to work on the spin Bikes the boys even went as far as plastic coating the handle of the spin bike tools in an orange covering making it easy to identify their hook pullers and bottom Bracket spanners even their 1.2 meter screwdrivers easy to find in there boxes. We even ground down a box of M8 threaded nuts to half their original size just so it was much simpler to reassemble one of the areas of the Bike. The correct tool for the job makes the task much simpler. Keep up the good work. Alan |
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