link to how-to rear front arm bushes.

[roverbarmy]

Thanks for the "How To" Brian. It worked a treat, even for an old "gimmer" like me!
Once the bolts were freed off and the old bush was moving, I found it easier to take the weight off the wheel and wishbone on the side being changed, by carefully using a bottle jack on the jacking point (Extra supports used on subframe for safety). This allowed the wishbone to move a little more freely (I attached a large pair of mole grips) to remove and replace the bush and housing.
Mike

[FrenchMike]

[QUOTE=marinabrian;2252421]Something along these lines perhaps?.....

Brian

"rotate the bolt anticlockwise until the click is heard and start off with fingers until you're sure it's not cross threaded."

I agree Brian,could seem useless but very important

Mike

[Den]

Hi Brian
Thank you for the removal guide. I've mine to do in the next 3 months. Haynes advise new bolts is this necessary? They are not available from Rimmer. If so do you know what the pitch of the 14mm bolt is? Also the only 10.9 HT bolts I can find have a hex A/F of 22mm, would these fit?

[marinabrian]

Originally Posted by Den

Hi Brian
Thank you for the removal guide. I've mine to do in the next 3 months. Haynes advise new bolts is this necessary? They are not available from Rimmer. If so do you know what the pitch of the 14mm bolt is? Also the only 10.9 HT bolts I can find have a hex A/F of 22mm, would these fit?

No need to replace the bolts, just give them a wire brush and refit

Brian

[Den]

Originally Posted by Arctic

Hi Brian.
You didn't happen to take any photo's of said job did you ? silly question really as I know you would have posted them.

Not that I need to do this job again yet but I most certainly will give it a try this way, as the way I did mine on the tourer was off axle stands and seemed to give me a good fight, mind I did not have the aviation modified spanner at the time

Haynes state new bolts for this Task! Not available from Rimmer Bros.!! Anybody know what the 14M bolt pitch is?

[marinabrian]

Originally Posted by Den

Haynes state new bolts for this Task! Not available from Rimmer Bros.!! Anybody know what the 14M bolt pitch is?

See my post above, and yes it is fine to reuse the original bolts, otherwise I would have run into trouble with the bushes I replaced six years ago

Brian

[Den]

Haynes recommend new bolts. The only bolt I can find are 10.9 HTS with a 22MM AF. Can any member tell me what the pitch of the correct bolt is? I really don't want to muck abouts under 2 ton of metal.

[marinabrian]

Originally Posted by Den

Haynes recommend new bolts. The only bolt I can find are 10.9 HTS with a 22MM AF. Can any member tell me what the pitch of the correct bolt is? I really don't want to muck abouts under 2 ton of metal.

Dennis, Mr Haynes says use new bolts.......... apart from one, I have and I have never heard of anyone ever replacing the bolts.

And do you know why this advice is actually presented?, the original bolts are the type known as patchlok, so apply a spot of loctite to the original bolt once you've wire brushed and degreased it if you wish to replicate this.

But if you are that concerned about it, I suggest you unbolt one of the rear ones, remembering you are at some point going to have to "muck around under two tons of metal" anyway, take the bus to your nearest nut and bolt specialist and source something identical.

Why identical? because I can guarantee one thing, you are not going to be able to get a spanner in to tighten bolts that are 22mm AF

Also, I look forward to seeing what arrangement you are going to employ to ensure the bolts are tightened to 155 Nm, you could always use something like THIS or perhaps not

Let us know how you get on please

Brian

[marinabrian]

......Have a look at the attached PDF Dennis, especially regarding patchlok bolts.

A patchlok bolt is a standard fastener with an application of thread locking compound to at least 180 degrees of the engaged thread form.

So as you will likely be using penetrating oil to ease removal, this will contaminate the thread form inside the subframe, thus making new patchlok bolts ineffective.

So far better to clean thoroughly the threaded section of the old bolt, and apply a small bead of Loctite 638 to the section of bolt which actually enters the subframe.

Hope this arrived in time to prevent you having to take one of your old bolts to the shops to try and match it with a new one

Brian

[kaiser]

Originally Posted by Den

Haynes recommend new bolts. The only bolt I can find are 10.9 HTS with a 22MM AF. Can any member tell me what the pitch of the correct bolt is? I really don't want to muck abouts under 2 ton of metal.

Re-use the bolts!! You could not damage these if you wanted to. And use some grease when fitting.