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22nd July 2019, 07:41 | #11 |
I really should get out more.......
ZT CDTi 135, ZT260SE Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Dundee
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Check the fronts too. All four corners can have an effect on the angle, depending on what ground the car is sitting on.
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22nd July 2019, 19:49 | #12 |
Regular poster
MG ZT-T Join Date: Nov 2016
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Still think its the bush mine is the same on drivers side rear all arms are solid and new matching springs ,the front sits exactly same height both sides ,this is the part I mean (Joint-rear suspension upper link ball - RHF100190 - Genuine MG Rover) on Rimmer bros parts diagram.Going to change them soon so will know for sure then.
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22nd July 2019, 20:10 | #13 | |
Gets stuck in
75 Tourer CDTi Connie SE Join Date: Jun 2017
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Quote:
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My 75 Tourer CDTi was born Saturday, 21st June 2003 @ 09:50 My 75 was the 18,749th 75 Tourer to run off the production line, out of 27,407 It was the 195th 75 Tourer CDT Connoisseur SE (135) to be made out of 2,074 and the 1,789th 75 Tourer in Wedgewood Blue Metallic (code: JEL) to be made out of 1,871 Wedgewood Blue Metallic 75 Tourers |
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22nd July 2019, 21:16 | #14 | |
I really should get out more.......
ZT CDTi 135, ZT260SE Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Dundee
Posts: 2,877
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Quote:
Its a rose-joint effectively and I have never seen one of those fail so far on a 75/ZT. Get loose yes, rattle a little yes, be broken enough to cause a 1" drop on that side of the suspension? Not yet anyway! |
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22nd July 2019, 21:18 | #15 | |
I really should get out more.......
ZT CDTi 135, ZT260SE Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Dundee
Posts: 2,877
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Quote:
When I had two sets of rear springs side by side, the ZT spring was almost exactly 1" shorter than the 75 spring. |
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23rd July 2019, 09:03 | #16 | |
Gets stuck in
Ex CDT Auto Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Barry
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Quote:
I had the same thing about 8 or 9 months ago....... after reading and seeking advice ( which of course is difficult for those not able to inspect the car in person ) I decided to replace the upper rear suspension arms which were, as most of them are, looking and feeling a bit crusty. As the car was 16 years old I decided to go the whole hog and replace upper arms, lower arms and all attendant bushes after reasoning that after 16 years and 140,000 miles it wouldn't do any harm for ride quality and safety to do the lot despite the extra cost of doing so. I recieved a call from the garage doing the work that the two rear dampers were seen to be in a bit of a state after the dismantling of the arms etc. One side had the extendable shiney plunger rod corroded down to about half of its original circumference and the other damper was clearly U/S so I changed both of them as well. Ironically after inspecting the old rear upper arms they looked as if they could do another 140,000 miles after a good rust clean up and spray with plenty of strength left in them so i don't think that the gap difference would have been down to them becoming weakened and starting to fold in. But all in all I feel a bit better that the lots been done for the future despite the extra cost. The difference in gap between the two sides disappeared after the work which I now put down to the shot dampers although I have read on here that this shouldn't make any difference to the gap on the wheel arches. |
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27th July 2019, 21:30 | #17 |
Gets stuck in
Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: May 2015
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I received a new KYB rear damper, will install it tomorrow and write the result here, maybe will help others in this situation too, and as stated, springs are in perfect condition, and btw, did not notice the color code of them, didn't look for them because, as I said before, this problem only appeared in the last 2-3 months and slowly developed.
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28th July 2019, 18:37 | #18 |
Posted a thing or two
75 Conn CDT Tourer, 75 Conn SE V6, 75 Conn V6, 75 Conn CDTi Tourer, ZS 180 Join Date: Jan 2014
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Unless a damper (standard type, not self-levelling) is seized completely solid in an extended position, they have absolutely no effect on ride height. All they do is dampen the bounce effect from the road spring, exactly as the name suggests
However, self levelling dampers on a 75 do give an upward lift in addition to the springs (the springs are a lower rate to prevent the car sitting too high)
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28th July 2019, 19:31 | #19 | |
Gets stuck in
MG ZT-T Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Horsham
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Quote:
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My garage. 03/53 MG ZT-T+ CDTi auto in XPG. 232k and much to do! 21/21 MG ZS ev. Daily. 85/C Capri 2.8i Special. Mine 29+ years. 82/X Talbot Tagora SX V6. Restoration project. 11/11 Hyundai I Load CRDi. Van....... nuff said. |
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30th July 2019, 23:03 | #20 |
Gets stuck in
Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: May 2015
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Hmm... now all of this got me thinking. Basically, and logically, there are only 2 possibilities in a lower on one side case, shocks and springs, and maybe shocks bushes (mountings)? Analysed every other poasibilty and none of them could affect the ride height on one side or the other as much as it did in my case.
Now to get to what I wanted to say, wanted today to replace the shock absorber and got stuck right at the beggining lol, and this never happened to me not even when I stripped down the whole engine, now get ready, this will be the dumbest question I've ever asked around here: how the h*ll can I remove the rubber protection that convers the shock mounting above the wheel arch? Stripped the boot cover away and got stuck right after that lol, that rubber protection is literally stuck there like it's glued, even though everything looks like new in there, tried twisting, pulling, prying from below with a flat screwdriver and still no chance |
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