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29th November 2020, 10:46 | #21 |
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Rovers 75 & 25 Join Date: Oct 2010
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I've always been sceptical of the reason behind the number of reported early failures of the clutch slave cylinder. The clutch on my Rover 25 went pop at a little over 55,000 miles, I did not replace it myself but I gather that the cause of the failure was the disintegration of the release bearing. But the guide sleeve was also damaged and needed replacing too and I do wonder if this began to fail first leading to excess force required to operate the clutch with the resulting damage to the release bearing. The car with hindsight came to me with the clutch failing but I did not know until after it was replaced. I thought the mechanic had done something wrong because after replacement the pedal was so light that it went straight to the floor without no resistance, or so it seemed to me in comparison to what I was previously used to when driving the car. It took me a few days to get used to it before it began to dawn on me that it was how it should be and what had been going on before clutch replacement.
I think that in my case the root cause of the failure was lubrication failure of the guide sleeve possibly compounded by excessive clutch dust in the bell housing, clutch dust apparently being a known problem with Rover 25 according to the mechanic who did the job. My Rover 25 does not have an hydraulic clutch system, but if it did my money would be on the slave cylinder seal failing because of the excessive force needed to operate the clutch when the release bearing begins to bind on the guide sleeve due to lubrication failure. |
29th November 2020, 14:34 | #22 |
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Rover 75 CDTi, 2x MG ZS180 Join Date: Jun 2011
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Ah, the good old Tazu debate.
We have good facts and figures we've collated to try and work out patterns and causes - the Master Cylinder (sold by XPart, but made by Tazu) seems to be very reliable overall and the copper pipe is fine as long as it's routed carefully. The Slave Cylinder is where we've had issues, not helped by the extra noise the copper pipework fitted transmits (when used with a Metal Slave this is quite a lot worse) - there's a very fine line between a noisy bearing that's on the way out, and this extra noise transmitted once the rather attenuating plastic pipework is in the bin. We'd love to have a solution to these, but the overall design seems to be a constraint we don't think we'll be able to work past - it's rather fundamentally flawed in terms of the seal / bearing design, and to be honest while we're absolutely confident in the quality of the Rear Upper Arms, redesigning a Slave Cylinder that includes a bearing is probably well above our skill level. The OEM-Q Slave Cylinder we sell (we've been using this supplier for a couple of years now) seems to do the trick, but as with any Slave Cylinder for our cars they're not perfect and we do still have the odd failure reported to us. Alas, that's just something we feel we'll have to live with - especially given the LUK item, Borg & Beck part and every other we've tried hasn't had a perfect record. A massive shame for our cars, but in my eyes it's just one of those foibles we're stuck with. On the bright side, we've still got buckets and buckets of the original AP Master Cylinder at around half the cost of the Tazu - these last like the originals, so should be good for 5+ years even with regular use: https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/products/gen...04274fdc&_ss=r
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2nd December 2020, 08:58 | #23 |
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My clutch pedal has hit the floor this morning after the clutch was replaced a few months ago. Dipping the reservoir with my finger, it is dry. I suspect the brand new LUK slave has sprung a leak.
The clutch is the one common issue I have had to contend with over 6 years of ownership.
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2nd December 2020, 14:42 | #24 | |
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14th December 2020, 11:07 | #25 | |
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The good news is the manufacturer of these is a large OE supplier for many brands - so they're subject to the same quality control and tolerances as original parts made by the same company. We've got a set being fitted and assessed in the UK today by a specialist - with any luck this will be another 'glowing' review such as we've had from the last person to have a look at them.
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14th December 2020, 11:14 | #26 |
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Right, an update!
A change from our previous posts is the metal thickness - we've been in talks with the OE supplier manufacturing these for us and agreed we can marginally increase the thickness without raising concerns elsewhere. It's not a huge difference - the arm will weigh around 300-400g more than the original - but every little helps as they say. We're expecting a full review from an MG Rover specialist who is fitting our engineering sample set today - we've already had them test-fitted elsewhere and received glowing reviews, however another can't hurt. The big update is that pricing has been confirmed, and can be viewed here: https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/products/com...4962-rgg104972 Club discount will of course be available as usual, and with the already-competitive pricing these will hopefully help keep our fine cars on the road.
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14th December 2020, 12:52 | #27 |
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seems a very good price for a pair of upper arms, well done
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14th December 2020, 22:29 | #28 |
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Excellent work chaps, very well done on sorting this, I'm sure everyone in the club appreciates all your efforts
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15th December 2020, 00:07 | #29 | |||
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Would it not be better if the gap marked out with yellow dots and arrows were welded across completely not just a spot weld ? 1 Do we know who the UK MG Rover Specialist is, and what test are they carrying out please, and under what circumstances etc.
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15th December 2020, 00:24 | #30 | |
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In answer to your first question, I would say yes. I certainly have done so on every arm I've fitted to any of my cars, but then again every (Indian) arm I've fitted has required the rose joint yolk pulled into shape, which meant the tack weld had to be removed. From the pictures these look to be a much better prospect than reworking the Indian ones, however I've yet to see one in the flesh. Brian |
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