Great EGR bypass kit

[Robson Rover Repair]

Hi folks.

Didn't even notice this happening, yes the "cooler" pipe as Arctic mentions seems to be fitted on some cars and not others. I've found it inconsistent myself having owned over 2 dozen diesels now in the last 13 years. Rover parts bin strikes again no doubt.

I do mention this fact in the guide, showing the difference between the two and advising how to bypass it should you need to do so.

I've also done an update later showing either bypassing at the block or like the original just bypassing the with the "penny" washer blocks as such. Again I prefer the block myself.

https://youtu.be/1H0Sec06Tc4

With regards the cooler pipe the reason I bypass at the block is exactly because of it. I've had them fail randomly in just about every car I've done the "plunger" style bypass on eventually, no doubt due to age however I know some are content with it.

Personally I feel bypassing at the block should you choose to do so is the best method even if it is extremely awkward, but at the same time I appreciate people who choose to keep it original as factory, or bypass the factory lump.

Plenty of options out there, I just share my experience like others in the forum.

[Arctic]

Originally Posted by Robson Rover Repair

Hi folks.

Didn't even notice this happening, yes the "cooler" pipe as Arctic mentions seems to be fitted on some cars and not others. I've found it inconsistent myself having owned over 2 dozen diesels now in the last 13 years. Rover parts bin strikes again no doubt.

I do mention this fact in the guide, showing the difference between the two and advising how to bypass it should you need to do so.

I've also done an update later showing either bypassing at the block or like the original just bypassing the with the "penny" washer blocks as such. Again I prefer the block myself.

https://youtu.be/1H0Sec06Tc4

With regards the cooler pipe the reason I bypass at the block is exactly because of it. I've had them fail randomly in just about every car I've done the "plunger" style bypass on eventually, no doubt due to age however I know some are content with it.

Personally I feel bypassing at the block should you choose to do so is the best method even if it is extremely awkward, but at the same time I appreciate people who choose to keep it original as factory, or bypass the factory lump.

Plenty of options out there, I just share my experience like others in the forum.

Hi Colin.
All Auto diesel should have the water cooler inline with the exhaust EGR pipe, no matter what age, the manual as we/you know if just the pipe, i was and am not knocking in any way you feel fit to do the bypass mod each to their own as you say, i was just pointing out the fact that with the EGR support remove for the pipe work it creates a weak point.

I have removed several over the years for members whom wished to block at the head.

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Cooler on the Auto diesels.
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You could of cause use the Freelander 2 bypass part which you do not have to remove the whole pipe work it slides into position

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[MissMoppet]

Blimey (again) Steve. Have you ever been so right so soon? Here's the cooling pipe after just A DAY! All I could do was take it off and shim the orifice + a smear of Loctite Blue. Please don't tell me this is wrong and another catastrophe is coming down the track?

[Arctic]

Hi Dave.
Sealing it the way you have should be ok to stop it leaking, but which there is always one, again because there is no support at the front end of the cooler where your short pipe as been removed it can and most likely will put pressure on the rear concertina pipe as in the link below, and fail at the weakest point.

https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-WAP101260A

https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID001956

This was why i recommended that any aftermarket EGR bypass still had the support as does the original.

You may end up have to either replace the front concertina pipe, and an EGR with the support, or having to remove the cooler to block of at the head, then have to re-route the cooling hoses, fingers crossed the support bracket on the cooler will be enough to stop any vibrations weakening the rear ? which will be the less of the two evil's

Replacing the front pipe now and the EGR with support or waiting for the worst to happen, so not good news really sorry.
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[Robson Rover Repair]

Very unfortunate, I maintain these are the weak link in the system and its why I blank at the block as often as possible as seen on the 2nd video.

Id so as Arctic says that's quick solution, did you kit come with 4 round blanks instead of 2?

If so, try the other two blanks where you remove the fluted / corcentina pipe and its jubilee clip type grooved cover.

I learned the hard way tightening one up, and not realised I'd actually been causing it to twist and fracture, so a kind hand from that point onwards!

[MissMoppet]

Now I am confused. Here's where I've added the shim. It seems rock solid to me?

[Arctic]

Hi Dave.
I did write this above ( fingers crossed the support bracket on the cooler will be enough to stop any vibrations weakening the rear ?) so you maybe ok, the only place left to block after that point is at the block pointed out by Colin above should the rear let go.

In my opinion for any others members thinking of purchasing an aftermarket bypass is to get one with the support end attached.

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Not really much more i can add cheers Arctic.