link to how-to rear front arm bushes.

hinged_bap · 28th March 2016, 10:35

a year or so ago, someone posted a how-to of changing the front arm rear bushes in situ ( the awkward ones ) and with the car sat on ramps and no spliiting of joints etc. i thought i subscribed to the thread but i can't find it there or in the official how-to section. Does anyone else remember it and can point me to it please.

marinabrian · 28th March 2016, 10:46

Something along these lines perhaps?.....

Brian

I have explored every different method of doing this job and using the following method with the car driven onto ramps, both sides can be replaced in under an hour, lying on your back on your drive.

Tools Needed
18mm combination spanner
'Large' ring spanner
18mm flexible head ratchet spanner
10" Shifting spanner
Lump hammer
Piece of timber (as a wedge)

The two securing bolts are best undone by fitting the 18mm combination spanner upside down and another large ring spanner looped through the jaws to gain extra purchase.

Once you have cracked the two bolts, undo them by a couple of turns and spray some releasing oil on the bolts and on the hexagonal end of the lower arm where it goes through the bush.

Leave it all to soak.

Tighten the rear bolt back up, then undo the front bolt. You can wind it up by around 3/4" using the ratchet spanner, but no further as you'll get the spanner stuck on the anti roll bar

Wind the front bolt out the rest of the way with your fingers

Now undo the rear bolt.

The arm at this point will now be free to articulate, so with your piece of wood, wedge it in place against the subframe.

The old bush can now be knocked rearwards off the arm.

Clean up the lower arm and noting the place where the old bush was located, lubricate it with a water soluble product, Liguid soap, swarfega, etc.

Now fit the new bush to the lower arm, aligning the fore and aft position with the clean part of the lower arm. Orientate it correctly on the hexagon so the mounted position is correct. Position bush holes to match subframe.

Next fit the rear bolt into the subframe, when entering the bolt, rotate anticlockwise until a click is heard, then with fingers only, tighten it to ensure it's not cross-threaded

Once you're sure it's entered correctly, it can be tightened down to a "just nipped" position, which while holding the bush absolutely parallel with the subframe, will allow it to be rotated around the bolt.

Here is where it becomes slightly tricky. Open the jaws of the shifting spanner to place it over the parallel sides of the loop of the bush housing.

This allows for easy alignment for the front bolt. Drop the bolt into the bush and wiggle the housing until the bolt enters the subframe hole.

Again, rotate the bolt anticlockwise until the click is heard and start off with fingers until you're sure it's not cross threaded. Spanner it down tight.

Since you won't be able to apply the torque wrench, use the 18mm combination spanner with another looped through the jaws to apply the final nip. Make it as tight as you can.

hinged_bap · 28th March 2016, 10:49

aha TYVM Brian, thats the one, i now recall the phrase 'shifting spanner' making that the article i was looking for .

olliesgrandad · 28th March 2016, 11:53

Brilliant. ! Ill be doing mine soon.

thanks Brian

freck · 28th March 2016, 11:55

Quote:

Originally Posted by olliesgrandad

Brilliant. ! Ill be doing mine soon.

thanks Brian

Yep, me too. Top job as always, thanks Brian.

And thanks for asking the question David, saved me searching.

macmalon · 2nd April 2016, 17:53

Hi,

My driver side rear front arm bushe was dead. I managed to remove the old one quite easily but now I am stuck at refitting the new one on the arm. Everyone says it just slides, but mine doesn't

I used tons of washing up liquid, but to no avail. I even heated the bush with a hair dryer hoping it would make it softer and expand the hole, but didn't change a thing.

I am out of ideas.
Does anyone have a clue about how to refit this stupid bush!!?

Thanks!

EastPete · 2nd April 2016, 18:04

Make sure the arm is clean - some people even file the ends to make the bush go on more easily. Silicone grease or something like KY jelly is often better for getting stubborn rubber suspension bushes to go in place, rather than washing up liquid. Are you using a large socket to drive the bush onto the end of the arm ? - this is a good way to get the bushes in place (I can't remember the socket size that is best, but it needs to be slightly fatter than the arm, and the diameter of the inner steel ring on the bush to work well).

Pete

macmalon · 3rd April 2016, 11:25

Thanks for the advices Pete. I tried your suggestions, but this stupid bush still resists. There's no way I can push it in position.

I'm thinking about unmounting the arm, but it seems quite complicated.
I'm also thinking the bush might not have the right dimensions.

This is very frustrating!!

Alikris · 3rd April 2016, 11:41

I think you need to add to your how-to at the end: check wheel alignment. This should be done after any suspension work IMO.

My bushes are ok (I've checked them) but I'd love to upgrade them to the Powerflex ones, especially with the roads around here (the wheels 'clunk' into potholes). Sadly, after reading your 'how to' there's no way I would attempt it on my own without an experienced person with me to help.

(Hows about a North East Nano Meet sometime?)

Ali.

Arctic · 3rd February 2017, 12:10

Quote:

Originally Posted by marinabrian

Something along these lines perhaps?.....

Brian

I have explored every different method of doing this job and using the following method with the car driven onto ramps, both sides can be replaced in under an hour, lying on your back on your drive.

Tools Needed
18mm combination spanner
'Large' ring spanner
18mm flexible head ratchet spanner
10" Shifting spanner
Lump hammer
Piece of timber (as a wedge)

The two securing bolts are best undone by fitting the 18mm combination spanner upside down and another large ring spanner looped through the jaws to gain extra purchase.

Once you have cracked the two bolts, undo them by a couple of turns and spray some releasing oil on the bolts and on the hexagonal end of the lower arm where it goes through the bush.

Leave it all to soak.

Tighten the rear bolt back up, then undo the front bolt. You can wind it up by around 3/4" using the ratchet spanner, but no further as you'll get the spanner stuck on the anti roll bar

Wind the front bolt out the rest of the way with your fingers

Now undo the rear bolt.

The arm at this point will now be free to articulate, so with your piece of wood, wedge it in place against the subframe.

The old bush can now be knocked rearwards off the arm.

Clean up the lower arm and noting the place where the old bush was located, lubricate it with a water soluble product, Liguid soap, swarfega, etc.

Now fit the new bush to the lower arm, aligning the fore and aft position with the clean part of the lower arm. Orientate it correctly on the hexagon so the mounted position is correct. Position bush holes to match subframe.

Next fit the rear bolt into the subframe, when entering the bolt, rotate anticlockwise until a click is heard, then with fingers only, tighten it to ensure it's not cross-threaded

Once you're sure it's entered correctly, it can be tightened down to a "just nipped" position, which while holding the bush absolutely parallel with the subframe, will allow it to be rotated around the bolt.

Here is where it becomes slightly tricky. Open the jaws of the shifting spanner to place it over the parallel sides of the loop of the bush housing.

This allows for easy alignment for the front bolt. Drop the bolt into the bush and wiggle the housing until the bolt enters the subframe hole.

Again, rotate the bolt anticlockwise until the click is heard and start off with fingers until you're sure it's not cross threaded. Spanner it down tight.

Since you won't be able to apply the torque wrench, use the 18mm combination spanner with another looped through the jaws to apply the final nip. Make it as tight as you can.

Hi Brian.
You didn't happen to take any photo's of said job did you ? silly question really as I know you would have posted them.

Not that I need to do this job again yet but I most certainly will give it a try this way, as the way I did mine on the tourer was off axle stands and seemed to give me a good fight, mind I did not have the aviation modified spanner at the time

28th March 2016, 10:35	#1
hinged_bap Gets stuck in 75 CDT Conn SE Auto saloon Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Southampton Posts: 773 Thanks: 134 Thanked 104 Times in 81 Posts	link to how-to rear front arm bushes. a year or so ago, someone posted a how-to of changing the front arm rear bushes in situ ( the awkward ones ) and with the car sat on ramps and no spliiting of joints etc. i thought i subscribed to the thread but i can't find it there or in the official how-to section. Does anyone else remember it and can point me to it please.

3rd April 2016, 11:41	#9
Alikris Gets stuck in Rover 75 1.8 Connie SE Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: Vindolanda, Northumberland Posts: 539 Thanks: 111 Thanked 153 Times in 105 Posts	I think you need to add to your how-to at the end: check wheel alignment. This should be done after any suspension work IMO. My bushes are ok (I've checked them) but I'd love to upgrade them to the Powerflex ones, especially with the roads around here (the wheels 'clunk' into potholes). Sadly, after reading your 'how to' there's no way I would attempt it on my own without an experienced person with me to help. (Hows about a North East Nano Meet sometime?) Ali. __________________ Vicky: born Thursday, 15th April 2004 @ 08:20:55. The 95,246th 75 to be produced, and the 4,783rd 75 in British Racing Green Pearlescent.

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28th March 2016, 10:46	#2
marinabrian MG ZT Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Newcastle Upon Tyne Posts: 20,151 Thanks: 3,565 Thanked 10,837 Times in 5,718 Posts	Something along these lines perhaps?..... Brian I have explored every different method of doing this job and using the following method with the car driven onto ramps, both sides can be replaced in under an hour, lying on your back on your drive. Tools Needed 18mm combination spanner 'Large' ring spanner 18mm flexible head ratchet spanner 10" Shifting spanner Lump hammer Piece of timber (as a wedge) The two securing bolts are best undone by fitting the 18mm combination spanner upside down and another large ring spanner looped through the jaws to gain extra purchase. Once you have cracked the two bolts, undo them by a couple of turns and spray some releasing oil on the bolts and on the hexagonal end of the lower arm where it goes through the bush. Leave it all to soak. Tighten the rear bolt back up, then undo the front bolt. You can wind it up by around 3/4" using the ratchet spanner, but no further as you'll get the spanner stuck on the anti roll bar Wind the front bolt out the rest of the way with your fingers Now undo the rear bolt. The arm at this point will now be free to articulate, so with your piece of wood, wedge it in place against the subframe. The old bush can now be knocked rearwards off the arm. Clean up the lower arm and noting the place where the old bush was located, lubricate it with a water soluble product, Liguid soap, swarfega, etc. Now fit the new bush to the lower arm, aligning the fore and aft position with the clean part of the lower arm. Orientate it correctly on the hexagon so the mounted position is correct. Position bush holes to match subframe. Next fit the rear bolt into the subframe, when entering the bolt, rotate anticlockwise until a click is heard, then with fingers only, tighten it to ensure it's not cross-threaded Once you're sure it's entered correctly, it can be tightened down to a "just nipped" position, which while holding the bush absolutely parallel with the subframe, will allow it to be rotated around the bolt. Here is where it becomes slightly tricky. Open the jaws of the shifting spanner to place it over the parallel sides of the loop of the bush housing. This allows for easy alignment for the front bolt. Drop the bolt into the bush and wiggle the housing until the bolt enters the subframe hole. Again, rotate the bolt anticlockwise until the click is heard and start off with fingers until you're sure it's not cross threaded. Spanner it down tight. Since you won't be able to apply the torque wrench, use the 18mm combination spanner with another looped through the jaws to apply the final nip. Make it as tight as you can.

28th March 2016, 10:49	#3
hinged_bap Gets stuck in 75 CDT Conn SE Auto saloon Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Southampton Posts: 773 Thanks: 134 Thanked 104 Times in 81 Posts	aha TYVM Brian, thats the one, i now recall the phrase 'shifting spanner' making that the article i was looking for .

28th March 2016, 11:53	#4
olliesgrandad Loves to post mg zt Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Thetford Posts: 458 Thanks: 415 Thanked 72 Times in 60 Posts	Brilliant. ! Ill be doing mine soon. thanks Brian

2nd April 2016, 17:53	#6
macmalon Regular poster MG ZT-T Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: Nantes Posts: 30 Thanks: 5 Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts	Hi, My driver side rear front arm bushe was dead. I managed to remove the old one quite easily but now I am stuck at refitting the new one on the arm. Everyone says it just slides, but mine doesn't I used tons of washing up liquid, but to no avail. I even heated the bush with a hair dryer hoping it would make it softer and expand the hole, but didn't change a thing. I am out of ideas. Does anyone have a clue about how to refit this stupid bush!!? Thanks!

2nd April 2016, 18:04	#7
EastPete Posted a thing or two Rover 75 CDTi Classic saloon, MGB GT, Skoda Yeti Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Ramsey, Cambs Posts: 1,874 Thanks: 626 Thanked 635 Times in 430 Posts	Make sure the arm is clean - some people even file the ends to make the bush go on more easily. Silicone grease or something like KY jelly is often better for getting stubborn rubber suspension bushes to go in place, rather than washing up liquid. Are you using a large socket to drive the bush onto the end of the arm ? - this is a good way to get the bushes in place (I can't remember the socket size that is best, but it needs to be slightly fatter than the arm, and the diameter of the inner steel ring on the bush to work well). Pete

3rd April 2016, 11:25	#8
macmalon Regular poster MG ZT-T Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: Nantes Posts: 30 Thanks: 5 Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts	Thanks for the advices Pete. I tried your suggestions, but this stupid bush still resists. There's no way I can push it in position. I'm thinking about unmounting the arm, but it seems quite complicated. I'm also thinking the bush might not have the right dimensions. This is very frustrating!!