Changed underbonnet pump - now gears heavy

steveharvey2001 · 10th April 2012, 11:44

After having an incident where the car, a 2004 CDT Tourer with 195000 on the clock, would not start in a town centre car park, but started first time after giving the under-bonnet fuel pump a clout, I decided to change the pump as a precaution.

I received the pump from MKON today and was able to fit it in about 45 minutes. I did find the bottom hose removal and replacement to be a bit of a struggle due to the restricted room for getting my hands in but it all went together without any leaks and the engine is starting an running healthily.

I have only taken it for short run so far but I have noticed that it appears to be more difficult to get the car into gear as I seem to have to push much harder on the gearstick to engage gears - especially first and reverse.

Has anyone else has this problem? Could I have interfered with the gear selection mechanism when fitting the UBP bottom hose?

Steve

kissifer1972 · 10th April 2012, 11:48

Steve

I wouldn't have thought you have disturbed the gear selection mechanism, although it isn't far from the bottom hose. I wonder if you spilt some diesel on the cables and it has removed some of the lubrication?

Hopefully someone with a bit more knowledge than me will be along to help.

Chris

Mike Noc · 10th April 2012, 12:21

Are the gears easy to get into with the engine off? If so then I'm afraid it sounds more like a clutch hydraulic issue. The hydraulic pipe that connects the master to the slave cylinder runs nearby the bottom of the UBP, but could be a coincidence that you now have a problem with changing gears.

Mike

steveharvey2001 · 10th April 2012, 14:03

Thanks for the replies....

There are no signs of diesel spillage and I have just driven the car again. I am beginning to think that I was just getting used to my Wife's Toyota Aygo over the easter weekend which has a new clutch fitted and has a very light gear change.

I know one thing that I did, when changing the UBP, was to pull slightly on the fuel feed pipe that runs to the bottom of the UBP so see if I could gain more clearance to the lower end of the pump when re-attaching the hose and clip (but the hose would not move so I did not try it again).

Another thing that I notice now is that I get a short metallic rattle noise from under the engine every time I stop the engine and it is noticeable from inside the car as well as from outside. If it persists, I will drop the under-tray at the weekend and have a better look.

Steve

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike Noc

Are the gears easy to get into with the engine off? If so then I'm afraid it sounds more like a clutch hydraulic issue. The hydraulic pipe that connects the master to the slave cylinder runs nearby the bottom of the UBP, but could be a coincidence that you now have a problem with changing gears.

Mike

mikesmith2 · 10th April 2012, 17:20

When i changed mine I removed the metal plate that holds the battery box and fuel filter in place, that gave me plenty of room to get at the bottom pipe on the pump.

10th April 2012, 11:44	#1
steveharvey2001 Loves to post Mini Cooper SE Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Worcester Posts: 369 Thanks: 39 Thanked 40 Times in 32 Posts	Changed underbonnet pump - now gears heavy After having an incident where the car, a 2004 CDT Tourer with 195000 on the clock, would not start in a town centre car park, but started first time after giving the under-bonnet fuel pump a clout, I decided to change the pump as a precaution. I received the pump from MKON today and was able to fit it in about 45 minutes. I did find the bottom hose removal and replacement to be a bit of a struggle due to the restricted room for getting my hands in but it all went together without any leaks and the engine is starting an running healthily. I have only taken it for short run so far but I have noticed that it appears to be more difficult to get the car into gear as I seem to have to push much harder on the gearstick to engage gears - especially first and reverse. Has anyone else has this problem? Could I have interfered with the gear selection mechanism when fitting the UBP bottom hose? Steve __________________ "How can one little insulated wire bring so much happiness?!" Homer J Simpson

10th April 2012, 11:48	#2
kissifer1972 Posted a thing or two Rover 75 CDTi Conn Tourer & Rover 75 CDT Conn SE Saloon Join Date: May 2010 Location: Queensbury Posts: 1,368 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	Steve I wouldn't have thought you have disturbed the gear selection mechanism, although it isn't far from the bottom hose. I wonder if you spilt some diesel on the cables and it has removed some of the lubrication? Hopefully someone with a bit more knowledge than me will be along to help. Chris __________________ Mods so far X-Power Performance Upgrade LED interior lights and sidelights Genuine Rover Xenons - now removed and sold Kenlowe fan Synergy 2 EGR Bypass

10th April 2012, 12:21	#3
Mike Noc This is my second home Rover 75 CDT Manual Connoisseur SE, Rover 75 CDT Automatic Connoisseur SE & a Freelander Td4. Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Hampshire Posts: 11,553 Thanks: 3,470 Thanked 3,119 Times in 2,247 Posts	Are the gears easy to get into with the engine off? If so then I'm afraid it sounds more like a clutch hydraulic issue. The hydraulic pipe that connects the master to the slave cylinder runs nearby the bottom of the UBP, but could be a coincidence that you now have a problem with changing gears. Mike

10th April 2012, 17:20	#5
mikesmith2 Loves to post None Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Reading Posts: 466 Thanks: 1 Thanked 15 Times in 15 Posts	When i changed mine I removed the metal plate that holds the battery box and fuel filter in place, that gave me plenty of room to get at the bottom pipe on the pump.