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Old 14th December 2019, 22:00   #11331
trikey
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Messed about with a strange canbus fault on the lagoon (As Brian knows as I did bend his ear for a while)

Car would not lock on the fob, sounding a mislock, T4 said 'Auxiliary On' and the odometer display illuminated with the keys out and the doors shut, not to mention the windscreen wipers moving all by themselves.

A wiggle of the drivers door wiring cures the issue, I reckon a chafed wire in the door loom is causing the issue, may have a look tomorrow.
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Old 14th December 2019, 22:11   #11332
marinabrian
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Originally Posted by trikey View Post
Messed about with a strange canbus fault on the lagoon (As Brian knows as I did bend his ear for a while)

Car would not lock on the fob, sounding a mislock, T4 said 'Auxiliary On' and the odometer display illuminated with the keys out and the doors shut, not to mention the windscreen wipers moving all by themselves.

A wiggle of the drivers door wiring cures the issue, I reckon a chafed wire in the door loom is causing the issue, may have a look tomorrow.
I blame the old codger who fitted a Trophy Blue door to the Lagoon personally.......bet he caused the fault

Bri
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Old 14th December 2019, 22:27   #11333
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I blame the old codger who fitted a Trophy Blue door to the Lagoon personally.......bet he caused the fault

Bri
Very possibly! not easy manhandling a door on your own while trying to get the rubber seal into the A pillar.

I still reckon the hasp and staple idea is ok.
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Old 14th December 2019, 22:43   #11334
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Heavy ZT front doors.

Understandable as I've swapped a few front doors on ZTs ... They are very heavy. I find it helps when working single handed to remove part of the lower hing. Then the job is much easier ... It is sometimes less work to change a whole complete door assembly than remove a dysfunctional door locking assembly and replace with a good used one.

Rear doors much lighter and far easier to handle working alone without help.
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Old 15th December 2019, 02:29   #11335
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Originally Posted by SideValve View Post
Fitted a new ancillary belt idler pulley this morning.
1st - check I have the correct tool - new one has T50 bolt great lets crack on.
Go to take the old one off - T55. I have a T55 for a 1/4 wrench but no room to get that on...
Trot off to local tool shop, have to buy a new key set which costs £30 - more than the pulley, grr
Back home & take the pulley off - can just get the key on but then cant see what I'm doing, enough space to edge 1/3 of a turn each swing then try and get the key back in the hole. Miserable job takes ages and I'm swearing I'm giving up working on "modern" cars.
Dreading the replacement process. Belt is still surprisingly taut with pulley off.
Check old bearing - going to be really sad if my diagnosis was wrong - happily it wasn't.
Manage to get new one in place and thread started. Dread spending an age getting it done up. Cold & grumpy.
Light bulb moment! I have the old key set so now have two T50s. I have a ratchet spanner set. I have a dremel. 20 min later I have a T50 stub that fits in the 10mm ratchet :¬)
5 minutes later the job is done, the car runs like a sewing machine :¬)
I use a T55 or T50 socket with a ratcheting spanner slid over the shank to turn it.
Fits in that narrow space between the pulley and inner wing and works like a charm!
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Last edited by Rich in Vancouver; 15th December 2019 at 02:46..
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