oil leak

mr m · 26th November 2015, 13:59

hi,
i have an oil leak that i have finally traced to the front exhaust cam seal. its not to bad and i am hoping to leave it to next year to do as i can only work outside and i don't like the cold or wet. i can not find any info on how to replace it, is there an idiots guide to do this or can any one suggest the best way forward?
it looks like i will have a lot of work to do soon as the heater is running cooler on the passengers side, the t/stat housing and pipe work is seeping and it needs a good few flushes as well as there looks like copper flecks in the coolant. oh the joys of an older car!

mark.

chris75 · 26th November 2015, 15:11

Try this for info .....
http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...d.php?t=230816

mr m · 26th November 2015, 15:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by chris75

Try this for info .....
http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...d.php?t=230816

thanks chris75, that is the seal that is leaking, but i do not have a cap on it it has an oil seal. if it was a cap then it looks fairly easy to replace but as i have an oil seal in its place i can not see an easy way to replace it with out having to remove loads of bits, the question being what do i have to do/remove to replace it?

mark.

chris75 · 26th November 2015, 16:18

As you will have seen in the earlier thread and some other posts , there is a school of thought on here to replace the end caps with oil seals if the caps leak or fall out . I am not personally a supporter of this as I have never had a problem with leaking caps , and have replaced the caps after doing a cambelt change without problem

It appears someone has previously changed the cap for an oil seal on yours !Access is very tight , and I don't have a quick answer to you for removing that seal . You don't want to go levering at it without taking great care for fear of putting a scratch on the housing and ensuring it leaks for evermore . My traditional way to remove such seals is to drill 2 small holes in the seal face , insert two small screws and pull them out with pliers , but you won't have room to do that. Anyone else with an idea ?

DMGRS · 26th November 2015, 18:13

I had a cap fall off my first ZS180 - we always supply seals rather than caps now.
The caps offer zero benefit, are more expensive, and do fall out if not properly fitted (and some have popped out even when fitted correctly, according to some).

The seal is around £1.90 for an OE item from ourselves, the cap over £5.

mr m · 27th November 2015, 12:05

Quote:

Originally Posted by DMGRS

I had a cap fall off my first ZS180 - we always supply seals rather than caps now.
The caps offer zero benefit, are more expensive, and do fall out if not properly fitted (and some have popped out even when fitted correctly, according to some).

The seal is around £1.90 for an OE item from ourselves, the cap over £5.

i still need advice on what i need to remove to fit the oil seal as access is very tight and i can see no way of getting the seal out with out removing lots of bits. so i am looking for advice from someone that has done the job before as i don't want to start removing bits unnecessarily in case they brake.

mark.

mr m · 28th November 2015, 16:38

anyone got any advice please?

mr m · 3rd December 2015, 13:13

still waiting for help or advice on how to do this job, has no one ever done it? any help on how to do it would be appreciated as it is now starting to drip on the floor and making a mess of the engine bay.

mark.

chris75 · 3rd December 2015, 14:12

Quote:

Originally Posted by mr m

still waiting for help or advice on how to do this job, has no one ever done it? mark.

I suspect you might be right ! Because you have oil seals fitted instead of the original caps , and this is a relatively recent modification , maybe no-one has ever tried to remove them yet

If I were trying to do this I think I would go in from above . It will be necessary to remove the power steering hose to the pump , and two radiator hoses including the elbows onto the radiator . You then will need to make a sort of bent thin screwdriver type tool to insert behind the seal and try to ease it out . Be very careful as steel is harder than the engine alloy and you don't want to scratch the housing !
If you can't get enough access that way , you might be looking at removing the front bumper and the radiator / aircon condenser and go in from the front.

SD1too · 3rd December 2015, 14:38

Quote:

Originally Posted by mr m

... it needs a good few flushes as well as there looks like copper flecks in the coolant.

The legacy of K-seal I'm afraid Mark. You definitely will need a fair few flushes, as murphyv310 found out.

Simon

26th November 2015, 13:59	#1
mr m Avid contributor mg zt 180 +. rover 200 diesel Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: billingshurst Posts: 166 Thanks: 30 Thanked 42 Times in 36 Posts	oil leak hi, i have an oil leak that i have finally traced to the front exhaust cam seal. its not to bad and i am hoping to leave it to next year to do as i can only work outside and i don't like the cold or wet. i can not find any info on how to replace it, is there an idiots guide to do this or can any one suggest the best way forward? it looks like i will have a lot of work to do soon as the heater is running cooler on the passengers side, the t/stat housing and pipe work is seeping and it needs a good few flushes as well as there looks like copper flecks in the coolant. oh the joys of an older car! mark.

26th November 2015, 15:11	#2
chris75 same car since 2005 2001 Rover 75 2.0 v6 Connoisseur Saloon Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Ellesmere Port , Cheshire Posts: 3,811 Thanks: 379 Thanked 549 Times in 466 Posts	Try this for info ..... http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...d.php?t=230816 __________________ Who said it was simples ?

26th November 2015, 16:18	#4
chris75 same car since 2005 2001 Rover 75 2.0 v6 Connoisseur Saloon Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Ellesmere Port , Cheshire Posts: 3,811 Thanks: 379 Thanked 549 Times in 466 Posts	As you will have seen in the earlier thread and some other posts , there is a school of thought on here to replace the end caps with oil seals if the caps leak or fall out . I am not personally a supporter of this as I have never had a problem with leaking caps , and have replaced the caps after doing a cambelt change without problem It appears someone has previously changed the cap for an oil seal on yours !Access is very tight , and I don't have a quick answer to you for removing that seal . You don't want to go levering at it without taking great care for fear of putting a scratch on the housing and ensuring it leaks for evermore . My traditional way to remove such seals is to drill 2 small holes in the seal face , insert two small screws and pull them out with pliers , but you won't have room to do that. Anyone else with an idea ? __________________ Who said it was simples ?

26th November 2015, 18:13	#5
DMGRS Discount MG Rover Spares Rover 75 CDTi, 2x MG ZS180 Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Hythe, Southampton Posts: 11,320 Thanks: 456 Thanked 3,377 Times in 2,027 Posts	I had a cap fall off my first ZS180 - we always supply seals rather than caps now. The caps offer zero benefit, are more expensive, and do fall out if not properly fitted (and some have popped out even when fitted correctly, according to some). The seal is around £1.90 for an OE item from ourselves, the cap over £5. __________________ Your trusted MG Rover specialist! Tel: 02380 001133 / Email: [email protected] We now have a 'chat' function on our site for even quicker replies. Give it a try! Remember - discount code FORUM5 for 5% off

28th November 2015, 16:38	#7
mr m Avid contributor mg zt 180 +. rover 200 diesel Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: billingshurst Posts: 166 Thanks: 30 Thanked 42 Times in 36 Posts	anyone got any advice please?

3rd December 2015, 13:13	#8
mr m Avid contributor mg zt 180 +. rover 200 diesel Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: billingshurst Posts: 166 Thanks: 30 Thanked 42 Times in 36 Posts	still waiting for help or advice on how to do this job, has no one ever done it? any help on how to do it would be appreciated as it is now starting to drip on the floor and making a mess of the engine bay. mark.