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Old 30th December 2020, 19:43   #11
marinabrian
 
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Chop the rusty part of the protruding threaded part of the bolt flush with the hub using a hacksaw or angle grinder with a thin disc to prevent the rusted thread picking up on the hub threads, then wind it out.

As it is moving along it's entire length, as opposed to the usual where the bolt shears at the wasted point where it is exposed within the slot, and the threaded part is seized into the hub, it will come out.

You've done the hard part in getting it moving already, the rest is a cinch

Brian
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Old 30th December 2020, 20:02   #12
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What heat are you using ? for the DIYer map gas is probably the best.

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Old 30th December 2020, 20:15   #13
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If you have the time order one of these
https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/15387875729...hoCy1sQAvD_BwE
It is worth every penny and is truly amazing what will move once it has had 10 mins to do its thing.

I have used it on exhaust bolts that looked like they would never move. You need to shake it before you spray and once you hear the balls rattle give it a squirt.
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Old 30th December 2020, 20:55   #14
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Are you sure you can shake it hard enough for the balls to rattle?
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Old 30th December 2020, 22:50   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macafee2 View Post
One member I think had to remove the strut still attached to the hub, hacksaw through the bolt via the slot and then remove each half of the bolt separately.

macafee2
You're not wrong !
Have a look at the link in post 2
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Old 31st December 2020, 08:48   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Synchromesh View Post
I will try the chisel method but there is no nut on the end of the bolt. The bolt screws into threads within the hub. I omitted it from my original post but I did give the bolt head a few sharp taps with a big hammer before I started!
My apologies. My old brain was remembering the nut and bolt for the lower ball joint.
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Old 31st December 2020, 14:14   #17
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I'm with Brian on the hack sawing bit.--Having done that on several occasions over the years.

I use the handle type that you slide the blade into. This way you can more easily cut the rusted part off.---You don't have the problem you get with a standard hack saw needing to dodge various things with the body of the hack saw.
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Old 31st December 2020, 15:25   #18
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Ebay No 272238107403

I have a couple of similar, one straight and one pistol grip.

And you can always snap the hacksaw blade short before starting. Requires patience in use and keeping the pressure down, let the blade do the work. Shorter blade resists bending.

Good luck.

Johnny BG

Last edited by JohnnyBG; 31st December 2020 at 15:25.. Reason: add info
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Old 31st December 2020, 16:33   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trikey View Post
Did you heat up the full length of the bolt or just the threaded bit?
I tried to keep the heat off the bolt and just heat the hub clamp. I was trying to expand the clamp without expanding the bolt. I used a 1500W heat gun with the nozzle hard up to the hub.
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Old 31st December 2020, 16:48   #20
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The bolt is out! First I used a wire brush in an angle grinder on the thread protruding from the hub. It was around 0C outside. I tried the bar on the bolt but it would not move in either direction. I applied heat then penetrating oil then more heat then the bar again. It moved tightly in both directions and eventually it went beyond the 80 degrees I achieved yesterday. After half an hour of moving it in both directions it felt slack enough to keep going anticlockwise and out it came. I don't think the protruding thread or the concealed thread was the problem. The shank is corroded along one side. I think the corroded side was at the bottom. Maybe water gets in through the slit in the hub and the bolt shank sits in this water. There was little or no penetrating oil on the shank. Thanks for all your suggestions. Next stage, trying to get the strut out of the hub.
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