Go Back   The 75 and ZT Owners Club Forums > The 75 and ZT Owners Club Forums > Technical Help Forum
Register FAQ Image Gallery Members List Calendar Mark Forums Read
Notices

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 21st February 2021, 19:48   #111
COLVERT
This is my second home
 
R75 Saloon.

Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: France/or Devon.
Posts: 14,003
Thanks: 3,851
Thanked 2,167 Times in 1,816 Posts
Default

A bit more info on the picture I posted in the above post.

Sometimes a garage mechanic will say----Trouble with your battery Sir ???---It's probably because it is sulphated up inside.---

Avoid this mechanic as he obviously doesn't know sulphate forms and vanishes when battery is in use. If it didn't no electricity would come out of your battery at all.---

If you follow the coloured lines in that picture it will tell you exactly what goes on inside your battery every day.
COLVERT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 22nd February 2021, 10:02   #112
Thunderbolt
Avid contributor
 
MG ZT-T+ 190

Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Bristol
Posts: 224
Thanks: 101
Thanked 19 Times in 16 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by edwardmk View Post
That is the question I'm asking myself. The 'ticking' was loud enough to be heard 20 feet from the car, about two ticks per second. No ticking when first parked and locked on the Thursday night, and nothing noted on the Friday. Saturday afternoon heard the ticking but it could have started overnight. No alarm or flashing indicators, but no CCTV to check timeline when it started up. Stopped of course when the battery went very flat. I've not heard the ticking since. Nervous of course about whether it could catch me out again
Is the ticking a relay?
If the switch side of a relay is energised - wiring fault then it will pull across the relay and energise the larger current draw.
__________________
1186th ZT-T 190 out of 1756
Thunderbolt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 24th February 2021, 14:32   #113
Teflon
This is my second home
 
Teflon's Avatar
 
Lagoon 2.0 V6 75 Conn SE Saloon

Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Chertsey
Posts: 5,198
Thanks: 2,825
Thanked 2,920 Times in 1,570 Posts
Default

I've been following this thread with interest, then today had a similar issue, but thankfully without being locked out of the car.

The poor old Rover has been sitting quietly under the car port for a few weeks due to a combination of the poor weather and having no where to go. Today, I decided to give her a quick dust off and opened the boot to get some of my detailing gear. So far so good. When I tried to lock the car though, nothing happened at all. I gave a couple of extra presses on the fob, and was greeted by a ticking sound from under the bonnet, at the rate of around 2 per second (sound familiar?).

I disconnected the battery, and put it on charge. Then, after an hour or so, I put the battery back just to see if the ticking noise had stopped. It had, but was replaced by the alarm sounding instead (made me jump a little!). A quick press of the unlock button on the fob silenced the alarm, so I'm guessing the ticking noise was the car attempting to trigger the alarm but with insufficient battery power to do so.

Battery is now off the car for a good long charge, which will hopefully sort the issue.

Hope this helps a little,

Cliff
__________________


No. 4 of 6
Teflon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 24th February 2021, 17:36   #114
Rick-sta
This is my second home
 
Rick-sta's Avatar
 
MG ZT 2.0 CDTI+ in Typhoon, MG TF 135 in Typhoon & Rover 75 Connoisseur CDTI SE in Pearl Black

Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 7,523
Thanks: 2,718
Thanked 2,827 Times in 1,462 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Teflon View Post
I've been following this thread with interest, then today had a similar issue, but thankfully without being locked out of the car.

The poor old Rover has been sitting quietly under the car port for a few weeks due to a combination of the poor weather and having no where to go. Today, I decided to give her a quick dust off and opened the boot to get some of my detailing gear. So far so good. When I tried to lock the car though, nothing happened at all. I gave a couple of extra presses on the fob, and was greeted by a ticking sound from under the bonnet, at the rate of around 2 per second (sound familiar?).

I disconnected the battery, and put it on charge. Then, after an hour or so, I put the battery back just to see if the ticking noise had stopped. It had, but was replaced by the alarm sounding instead (made me jump a little!). A quick press of the unlock button on the fob silenced the alarm, so I'm guessing the ticking noise was the car attempting to trigger the alarm but with insufficient battery power to do so.

Battery is now off the car for a good long charge, which will hopefully sort the issue.

Hope this helps a little,

Cliff
I wonder if unlocking the boot drained the last bit of power the battery had left i it. As when the battery is dead or disconnected the boot can't be opened using the key in the lock, at least it can't on my typhoon anyway.

Good thing your car was already unlocked otherwise you may have had the same issue with not being able to unlock it at all as Martin and myself had.
__________________
How to retrofit Cruise Control on a diesel with no OEM wiring in place: Link
How to retrofit heated electric memory seats with no OEM wiring in place: Link
How to operate FBH and ATC via text Link
How to restore cloudy projector headlights Link
Rick-sta is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 24th February 2021, 17:45   #115
Rick-sta
This is my second home
 
Rick-sta's Avatar
 
MG ZT 2.0 CDTI+ in Typhoon, MG TF 135 in Typhoon & Rover 75 Connoisseur CDTI SE in Pearl Black

Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 7,523
Thanks: 2,718
Thanked 2,827 Times in 1,462 Posts
Default

Little update from me Martin after our call yesterday.

I done a test on redfive today. Popped the bonnet open and then locked the car with the fob whilst I held the bonnet switch pressed down so it would think the bonnet is shut. Waited about 10 seconds and then took my finger off the switch to set the alarm off. If I then attempt to unlock the car with the key in the driver's door lock it unlocked fine.

I then done the test again, set the alarm off and disconnected the battery (to replicate having a flat battery) and I was still able to unlock the driver's door with the key in the lock.

So sadly my theory of maybe the locks not allowing you to unlock the driver's door with the key if the car is locked with the fob and the alarm's going off and the battery is dead didn't work unfortunately.

So still baffled as to why we were both unable to unlock the door with the key in the driver's lock when the battery died.

My door lock works perfectly fine. But when my battery died the door lock restricted how far I could turn the key in the lock. So to unlock the car via the keylock I can turn the key 90 degrees clockwise to unlock it. However when the battery died, I was only able to turn the key 45 degrees clockwise. It could not be turned any further no matter how hard I tried without breaking the key fob.
__________________
How to retrofit Cruise Control on a diesel with no OEM wiring in place: Link
How to retrofit heated electric memory seats with no OEM wiring in place: Link
How to operate FBH and ATC via text Link
How to restore cloudy projector headlights Link
Rick-sta is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 24th February 2021, 18:33   #116
SD1too
Doesn't do things by halves
 
SD1too's Avatar
 
Rover 75 2.5 Connoisseur Auto (1999) Dealer launch model.

Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Former Middlesex
Posts: 20,265
Thanks: 1,587
Thanked 3,749 Times in 3,181 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick-sta View Post
My door lock works perfectly fine. But when my battery died the door lock restricted how far I could turn the key in the lock. So to unlock the car via the keylock I can turn the key 90 degrees clockwise to unlock it. However when the battery died, I was only able to turn the key 45 degrees clockwise. It could not be turned any further no matter how hard I tried without breaking the key fob.
Thanks for this Rick. Removing the driver's door lock, which contains the key-operated switches and actuators, might help understanding but of course only partial technical information is available presumably for security reasons.

Simon
__________________
"Whatever is rightly done, however humble, is noble."
Sir Henry Royce.
SD1too is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 24th February 2021, 22:59   #117
edwardmk
Gets stuck in
 
edwardmk's Avatar
 
MG ZT 260, Rover 75 Connie SE auto

Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Redruth
Posts: 982
Thanks: 1,324
Thanked 399 Times in 271 Posts
Default

Thanks for the follow up Rick and the advice. I'm hoping to get stuck into this at the weekend and discover more and will post what happens. Current position is that the rear doors lock and unlock normally. The front passenger door the same manually but the mechanism was a little stiff, and the actuator solenoid is non-responsive. Driver's door is the conundrum.
The manual key will not open the manually locked drivers door. The interior handle also doesn't open the door, unless I leave the key in the barrel at the lock position (fully counter clockwise). Then two pulls of the interior handle and the door pops open. Now the door is unlocked, but the key is trapped in the barrel in a position just 20 degrees or less clockwise from full lock. As long as I leave the key in the lock in that position, the door opens and closes normally. The only way though to get the key out is to return it to the lock position slightly counterclockwise. I can now remove the key which renders inside and outside handles inoperative and the door is locked again.
The only way to open the drivers door from the outside is to connect the battery and turn the key clockwise at the same time as operating the fob button and pulling the handle. Could I possibly have a faulty superlock situation? Further investigation clearly needed. I have a new passenger door actuator ready to fit so hopefully I'll have three working doors soon and can really focus on the drivers door then. So odd that all was well until the battery went flat!
edwardmk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 25th February 2021, 15:00   #118
edwardmk
Gets stuck in
 
edwardmk's Avatar
 
MG ZT 260, Rover 75 Connie SE auto

Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Redruth
Posts: 982
Thanks: 1,324
Thanked 399 Times in 271 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Teflon View Post
I've been following this thread with interest, then today had a similar issue, but thankfully without being locked out of the car.

The poor old Rover has been sitting quietly under the car port for a few weeks due to a combination of the poor weather and having no where to go. Today, I decided to give her a quick dust off and opened the boot to get some of my detailing gear. So far so good. When I tried to lock the car though, nothing happened at all. I gave a couple of extra presses on the fob, and was greeted by a ticking sound from under the bonnet, at the rate of around 2 per second (sound familiar?).

I disconnected the battery, and put it on charge. Then, after an hour or so, I put the battery back just to see if the ticking noise had stopped. It had, but was replaced by the alarm sounding instead (made me jump a little!). A quick press of the unlock button on the fob silenced the alarm, so I'm guessing the ticking noise was the car attempting to trigger the alarm but with insufficient battery power to do so.

Battery is now off the car for a good long charge, which will hopefully sort the issue.

Hope this helps a little,

Cliff
Many thanks Cliff for your post. I think you've nailed the reason for the ticking noise. I did notice that as I was charging the battery up via the trailer socket, the alarm started to sound initially very weakly almost like on a half cycle and then got stronger although it never 'ticked' again. I agree the original ticking noise at 2 'tick'/sec was likely either the BBUS trying to work at inadequate voltage, or a related relay (as suggested by Calum) . Someone with more knowledge than myself on this might care to comment later.
edwardmk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 25th February 2021, 17:14   #119
Avulon
This is my second home
 
1.8t Tourer

Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Tanelorn
Posts: 4,830
Thanks: 956
Thanked 1,148 Times in 916 Posts
Default

Here's one theory on the door lock issue.
A flat battery isn't a non-existent battery. I.e. disconnecting the battery doesn't accurately simulate a flat battery.


If there is some voltage present and an attempt is made to unlock the car with the remote is it maybe possible that the doorlock solenoid is moving (even if only slightly), just not far enough to unlock the door: and that an unfortunate side effect of this is to block the mechanical unlock mechanisms?


There's something to go and experiment with!
__________________
Need a T4 ?: T4 Owners Map thanks to Stevestrat ( use at your own risk)

Where?:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tanelorn
Mods/Retrofits:

PCV vortex 'filter'; bluetooth; inline thermostat; reversing sensors; plenum spyhole ; headlamp washers ; Diy mp3 player replacing CD multichanger; FBH with remote; Headlamp washers; black/chrome front grille, rear blind; Xenon projectors
To do:
puddle lights; 2 Din cd/nav to fit; boot release button
Avulon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 25th February 2021, 19:31   #120
madeupname
Posted a thing or two
 
Rover 75 Connie Mk2 1.8 (Mo)

Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Sheffield
Posts: 1,531
Thanks: 875
Thanked 335 Times in 289 Posts
Default

great thread, lots to ponder. And yes, I cheered when you finally got back in
My experience with Rover 75 alarms and flat batteries is enormous. The battery has gone flat many times on both cars.
This is what I've learned - If the battery goes flat with the car locked and alarmed on the fob, the alarm will sound when the negative lead touches the battery post....... have fob ready to unlock.
If I know the battery is going to go flat I open with the fob, but lock the drivers door with the key blade. After battery has gone flat and fob doesn't work, I recharge the battery, and this time when reconnecting it, the alarm doesn't sound.

Something else..... If the car is locked and alarmed with the fob, then I open the drivers door with the key blade, she lulls me into a sense of false security, then the alarm suddenly goes off.

Didn't know about the technique of opening the window with the key blade. Might try that for fun next time I'm out
__________________
Mo was born Tuesday, 22nd June 2004 @ 08:32:41
This vehicle was the 99,307th 75 to run off the production line, out of 112,381
This vehicle was the 5,377th 75 1.8 Connoisseur to be made out of 6,033
This vehicle was the 783rd 75 in Firefrost Red (code: CEV) to be made out of 2,089 Firefrost Red 75s
madeupname is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT. The time now is 23:38.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright © 2006-2023, The Rover 75 & MG ZT Owners Club Ltd