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Old 29th April 2021, 13:30   #11
trikey
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If you have overheated the block excessively then this can cause the liners to sink, as others have said, find the cause of the leak, repair it, bleed the system correctly and try again.
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Old 29th April 2021, 14:15   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ducati750cc View Post
An odd thing about temp. sensors, not to be seen often and by many folk, is that if the water level in the area where the temp. probe sits drops and the probe is not in water, it can read a lower or zero reading, though the surrounding area may be at 100deg.


It doesn't sound logical but the sensor probe is designed to register water temp. when bathed in water, though there may be no water in the area and the air temp in that area may be high, heat isn't transferred as efficiently by air as water, likewise the sensor will be bolted into a hot area of engine metal, but there won't be the same transmission of heat to the probe, from the ' bolt ' as there is with water.


What was/is sometimes heard from someone with a well cooked engine is " There was lots of steam from under the bonnet, but the temp gauge was low, in the cold area.

Ducati 750cc spot on
Usually initially the temperature sensor rises as you lose coolant but as you lose more coolant often drop as though going back to normal giving a false sense of security ! Trouble is with the temperature gauge on these cars is that it centres over too big a temperature variation ! meaning with rapid coolant leak your gauge doesn't always confirm the problem
Basically others have said the way forward, diagnosing what caused the problem and what damage has been done
I see from your other post you are looking for a mechanic , I'm sure the ones recommended will soon point you in the right direction

Last edited by TourerSteve; 29th April 2021 at 14:43..
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Old 29th April 2021, 14:38   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trikey View Post
If you have overheated the block excessively then this can cause the liners to sink, as others have said, find the cause of the leak, repair it, bleed the system correctly and try again.
About seven years ago now I boiled out all the water from the ZT V8 on a pottering run around Cornwall showing my mum and sister the sights. The engine literally cut out and we had to push the car into the side of the road (didn't need a gym session after that). I never saw my temperature gauge take off (although that could have been me not fully paying attention). We left it and went for a meal at a local restaurant. The owner gave us some containers to ferry water to the now cool car. Had to make three trips so I know it was pretty empty. She started first time. The leak turned out to be a bad filler cap. I'm not going to say anything about no prob's since, not that I'm superstitious Wishing you 'Good luck!' with yours.
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Old 29th April 2021, 14:49   #14
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Hello Andy,

I'm sorry; you've posted only five times and we're giving you a bit of a hard time aren't we.

The 1.8 engine does have a poor reputation amongst the general public but enthusiasts in the club will tell you that it's fine so long as it's looked after. When you have a problem it's best to raise it here before going to a mechanic. We have much specialist knowledge to help you and it's free!

Now, regarding the temperature sensor. They are extremely reliable but if they do go wrong the radiator cooling fan will be activated at fast speed (as a precaution) and the temperature gauge needle falls to the cold position and the high engine temperature warning light illuminates. Additionally you may notice poor running since the correct fuelling and ignition timing is dependent upon the signal from the coolant temperature sender.

The RAC patrolman is correct to say that the temperature gauge will show "normal" over a range of temperatures. In fact this range is from 75 to 115˚C. This applies to the 1.8, V6 and diesel versions of the 75/ZT and other manufacturers do it as well including BMW. We can tell you how to activate a digital display in your instrument pod which shows the actual temperature of the engine. This would have enabled us to tell you whether the sensor was faulty or not. It would be very unusual if it was.

Anyway, that's all history now. Would you like some advice on the damaged part of your engine? If you're not mechanically minded, can you post a photograph of it? We can then suggest the most cost effective repair and get you on the road again as soon as possible.

Best wishes,

Simon
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Old 29th April 2021, 14:51   #15
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I have now spoken to two mechanics about the problem.
First was Nick Newey at Summit Dudley. He was very knowledgeable and friendly. He said if it was just the head gasket that's gone the price would be £800+ to repair. If further damage has been done then it would be in four figures, but obviously he can't tell until he starts dismantling which would be £200+ just to look at it. He did say to fill it up with water and if it starts and hasn't jammed then that would be a good sign and would be more likely to be head gaskets, but not guaranteed.

Secondly I spoke to Russell at mgroversolutions who couldn't properly diagnose without seeing but said if it was head gaskets then the cost would be £425 and if further damage was done it would be an additional £350 (£775 total). He could do it in about3/4 weeks time. Apparently he is 350 miles away from home at the moment so he really does travel to do a job!!

If it was just head gaskets at £425 I would have it done but not sure spending £775 on it is sensible on a 17 year old car where the value isn't that great. Not totally decided yet what to do.
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Old 29th April 2021, 14:57   #16
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Not totally decided yet what to do.
OK Andy, thanks for the update.

The number one rule with car repair is not to assume that the worst has happened and start fretting about the potential cost until you actually have some evidence. There is no reason to believe at the moment that you are looking at head gasket replacement.

This is what has been recommended to you so far:
  1. Identify and repair or replace the damaged engine part.
  2. Fill the cooling system and start the engine.

If it overheats or if you get "mayonnaise" in the coolant or on the dipstick and under the oil filler cap then report back. If you don't, that will be good news.

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Old 29th April 2021, 15:26   #17
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Indeed. As many have said, the RAC man has basically given you a guess. Unless he did a roadside compression test and other diagnostics, he cannot tell if the engine is goosed or not.

Yes, the K-Series (which is actually a good engine) does have a reputation for head gasket failure, but so do lots of other engines and in most cases it comes about by poor maintenance or a sudden loss of coolant (which you have had, but is not always terminal).

The cheap and easy test is to refill the engine (I would actually use proper coolant rather than water as it is not * that * expensive, and if the engine is OK it saves you having to do it again - but water is OK if cost is an issue), and see what happens.

The only fly in the ointment is the damage you mention to something which has melted. We need to understand what that is in order to advise you. Any chance of a picture?
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Old 29th April 2021, 16:16   #18
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Originally Posted by andybilston View Post
"SUZUBLU"-my comment about the 1.8 being a dodgy engine I think is true as it is well known for blowing head gaskets as I've been told by several people since buying the car. I took the car to a mechanic with the intermitant cold running fault who diagnosed the temperature sensor as faulty and said everything else checked out ok-so he fitted a new one. I'm not a "dodgy owner" as I didn't neglect the car I took it to a mechanic to sort out the problem and I assumed (Not being a mechanic myself) that he had diagnosed the fault correctly.
When the car did break down the temperature gauge was reading half way so there was no sign of it overheating-I was told by the RAC patrolman (rightly or wrongly?) that with this Rover engine it will often show the temperature as normal on the gauge when infact it is melting??
I'm sorry if I came across a bit rude, but it annoys me when someone posts on an owners club forum looking for advice, they immediately slag off the car
Help and advice is freely given on here by very knowledgeable people (not me btw) Listen to what they say and you can't go far wrong
The 1;8 is a very good engine, usually let down by other component failure and lack of maintenance.
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Old 29th April 2021, 16:24   #19
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If it’s any consolation my 1.8t is on 211,000 miles and has had the head gasket replaced 5 times. 4 for HGF and the other one as a precautionary measure after the radiator failed.

Russell Walsh lives in Borough Green in Kent. I have never had any dealings with him. But if you pm Teflon on here he will confirm that Russell rebuilt his engine.
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Old 29th April 2021, 16:52   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ducati750cc View Post
An odd thing about temp. sensors, not to be seen often and by many folk, is that if the water level in the area where the temp. probe sits drops and the probe is not in water, it can read a lower or zero reading, though the surrounding area may be at 100deg.

Used to happen on the original GPZ900R... I had a much-loved example back in 1984/5 which destroyed its top end from overheating, with the temp gauge reading fine... coolant system was almost empty
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