No heat in car

[Caulkhead]

Have nothing warm coming through heater, but temp gauge is at 9 o clock and car runs well.

Might an in hose thermostat help, or is there any other possible cause/solution.

[Lagetha]

Blocked heater matrix needs flushing out... Search the forum for Easiflush solution...

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[Caulkhead]

Thanks, will do this and hopefully my wife will get in the car again as she is freezing!

[Ed3]

As a strictly DIY comment I would first try to find a way to feel inside the car if the heater matrix is hot?

If the heater matrix is hot then check cables and connections of the ventilation system?

Or from the engine bay. I am not sure of what is accessible on the Rover 75 but on other older design cars the first thing we would do is check whether both pipes to and from the heater matrix are hot. If both pipes are hot the matrix is usually OK.

But of cars generally if there are coolant valves on those heater matrix pipes that can complicate matters and a valve gone wrong can potentially be the problem.

Another issue for those with expertise to make clear for us is that some older and modern VW/Audi have a dual cooling system and whether valves or dual cooling systems affect the Rover 75

[SD1too]

Hi Roy,

Just a few suggestions before you rush in to flush your heater matrix (which by all accounts can be quite problematic).

I see that you have the diesel engine, hence your idea to fit an additional top hose thermostat. You also say that the temperature gauge always points to the 9 o'clock position.

The gauge will sit in this position at all temperatures from 75 to 115˚C. This could mean that your coolant is reaching only 75˚C due to the well known problem of a lazy thermostat. I'd therefore recommend activating the digital display of engine temperature to find out what the actual running temperature is. You will then be in a better position to judge whether an in-hose additional 'stat is necessary or that your heater matrix needs de-scaling as Lagetha has said.

Simon

Edit: Ed3's post has coincided with mine and he makes a very good point about feeling the flow and return pipes to the matrix. However you don't need to worry about cables, valves or dual cooling systems as your Rover doesn't have them.

[Lagetha]

Originally Posted by SD1too

Edit: Ed3's post has coincided with mine and he makes a very good point about feeling the flow and return pipes to the matrix. However you don't need to worry about cables, valves or dual cooling systems as your Rover doesn't have them.

Simon, you may remember in the original EASIFLUSH post I reported both input and output pipes to my heater matrix were warm, both you and Trikey offered explanations, however that heat wasn't transferred to the car's interior, until I'd applied the EASIFLUSH fix and flushed the matrix - only 10 mins flush in each direction (I live in a soft water area so scaling wasn't the problem). It is much easier than removing the matrix, from inside the car, avoiding damaging "o" rings and connectors etc.

[Caulkhead]

Thanks for suggestions, how do I activate digital display?

Will have a good check of pipes etc tomorrow as we are forecast some dry days, so will put the ark back in the garage!

Any thoughts about my bulb warning dashboard light, as mentioned all bulbs working, could the very damp conditions have triggered this?

[xsport]

Bulbs and their connections can be intermittent. working when you check them and then flickering on/off driving etc can cause the dash light to activate. A bad connection is usually the fault ,but locating it is by no means an easy task. You could start with the bulb bayonet connectors to bulb fittings first , and also the plug connections to the units are secure and clean.work them in and out a few times first. I had one connector plug giving me the lamp warning on the dash ,but each time i checked the lights were working ok. I resolved my issue with a simple piece of cellotape around the plug join. where they push together . no problems since . The plug must have been separating very slightly due to vibration etc during travel. Im not sure if the original tail lights were prone to solder cracks along their tracks , but you could have a look at the state of them generally when you check the bulb seatings/contacts. Tick off the easy checks first and then the more difficult inspections further down the line....

[another_clean_sheet]

Originally Posted by xsport

Bulbs and their connections can be intermittent. working when you check them and then flickering on/off driving etc can cause the dash light to activate. A bad connection is usually the fault ,but locating it is by no means an easy task. You could start with the bulb bayonet connectors to bulb fittings first , and also the plug connections to the units are secure and clean.work them in and out a few times first. I had one connector plug giving me the lamp warning on the dash ,but each time i checked the lights were working ok. I resolved my issue with a simple piece of cellotape around the plug join. where they push together . no problems since . The plug must have been separating very slightly due to vibration etc during travel. Im not sure if the original tail lights were prone to solder cracks along their tracks , but you could have a look at the state of them generally when you check the bulb seatings/contacts. Tick off the easy checks first and then the more difficult inspections further down the line....

I think you have answered on the wrong post!!

[xsport]

Originally Posted by Caulkhead

Thanks for suggestions, how do I activate digital display?

Will have a good check of pipes etc tomorrow as we are forecast some dry days, so will put the ark back in the garage!

Any thoughts about my bulb warning dashboard light, as mentioned all bulbs working, could the very damp conditions have triggered this?

I think you need to go to specsavers mr cleansheet ....