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Old 31st July 2019, 08:29   #1
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Default Paint ding





I have seen this paint missing from the car. Please advise
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Old 31st July 2019, 20:26   #2
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Hi Phil,

I could be wrong, but it looks to me that the bumper has been painted at some point in the past, and it was done whilst still on the car. As a result, the very top edge of the bumper couldn't be properly prepped, resulting in the flaky paint that can be seen in the join.

You might get away with a "smart repair" in the short term, but I suspect it will need a bumper off repaint for a permanent repair.

Hope this helps,

Cliff
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Old 31st July 2019, 23:46   #3
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Hi Phil,

I could be wrong, but it looks to me that the bumper has been painted at some point in the past, and it was done whilst still on the car. As a result, the very top edge of the bumper couldn't be properly prepped, resulting in the flaky paint that can be seen in the join.

You might get away with a "smart repair" in the short term, but I suspect it will need a bumper off repaint for a permanent repair.

Hope this helps,

Cliff
Thanks Cliff for stepping up with an answer. Just before I bought the car from Rover Rabett in 2010, the right rear wing had to be filled and painted in a body shop. In all the years I have owned the car, the bumper has never been repainted. It’s been suggested I sell the car and get an old banger as a run around. I am undecided about selling. Getting back to the flaking paint, I will have it assessed and take it from there.

Last edited by Gate Keeper; 31st July 2019 at 23:50..
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Old 1st August 2019, 07:21   #4
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Keep an eye out for a replacement bumper on Ebay or ask traders on here what they have in Wedgwood JEL
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Old 1st August 2019, 10:18   #5
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Keep an eye out for a replacement bumper on Ebay or ask traders on here what they have in Wedgwood JEL
Thank you Dave, great suggestion. I have been keeping a front bumper in Wedgewood JEL (as one does). I bought that one from Sean Car and Rover54 is looking after it for me. I will keep a look out for replacement bumper in JEL on eBay and the traders here.

I want to ask a question about something very different. We have a Gledhill Pulsacoil BP open vented mains pressure hot water cylinder using off peak electric. The temp of the hot water is way too hot, it is scalding. We suspect the thermal sensor and there is no adjustment, to lower the temp which is factory preset at 55C. A label on the boiler says it was manufactured in December 2012.

I showed it to a plumber who came to change a dripping tap. He said he was not trained in Pulsacoil electric boilers and could not help. In essence, we are looking at lowering the temp so it’s not scalding and dangerous.

Who is the right kind of plumber in the region of Bristol we can call out? It’s too complicated for diy/amateur.
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Old 1st August 2019, 10:41   #6
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Pulsacoil are made by Gledhill as you correctly point out
Gledhill do a fixed price repair.
https://www.gledhill-response.net/one-off-repairs/

In its simplest explanation it is a hot water cyl at low pressure (open vented) heated electrically. it has a cold water mains pipe running through it. Due to conduction the mains pressure water goes in cold and comes out hot.

There is a train of thought that having it "too hot" saves money. ( it makes you put the plug in the sink and add cold so hot water is not running directly down the drain ).

If the appliance proves to be working correctly and the sensor isn't faulty there is a mixer valve we used to set up and use in establishments where people were vulnerable to being scalded, this can be set to mix the hot and cold water to a temp of your choice before it reaches the tap. Depending where you fit this device it could be for one hot tap or all hot taps.
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Old 1st August 2019, 11:24   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stocktake View Post
Pulsacoil are made by Gledhill as you correctly point out
Gledhill do a fixed price repair.
https://www.gledhill-response.net/one-off-repairs/

In its simplest explanation it is a hot water cyl at low pressure (open vented) heated electrically. it has a cold water mains pipe running through it. Due to conduction the mains pressure water goes in cold and comes out hot.

There is a train of thought that having it "too hot" saves money. ( it makes you put the plug in the sink and add cold so hot water is not running directly down the drain ).

If the appliance proves to be working correctly and the sensor isn't faulty there is a mixer valve we used to set up and use in establishments where people were vulnerable to being scalded, this can be set to mix the hot and cold water to a temp of your choice before it reaches the tap. Depending where you fit this device it could be for one hot tap or all hot taps.
Thank you very much Dave for going into this. We looked at the Gledhill package which is for warranty repairs valid for 12 months. This includes parts, but not labour, they don’t do anything in between. Jessica managed to find the installers who fitted the system and she has gone ahead and asked them to visit on Monday. I can ask about a mixer valve. The instruction manual says it’s set to 50C-55C to kill off bacteria, but that feels hot to me.

Anyway Dave, thank you for coming back. I knew you would understand
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Old 1st August 2019, 12:35   #8
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Hi Phil,
here you go

As for keeping the water temp at 55 to 60 degrees this article on legionaries disease this was an interesting read when I worked for Carillion

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2094925/
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Old 1st August 2019, 19:16   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stocktake View Post
Hi Phil,
here you go

As for keeping the water temp at 55 to 60 degrees this article on legionaries disease this was an interesting read when I worked for Carillion

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2094925/
Hi Dave, we have both read the excellent article about keeping the temp to 60C and the reasons why. We have decided we may ask for the anti scalding devices to be fitted. Thank you very much.
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Old 6th August 2019, 19:17   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stocktake View Post
Hi Phil,
here you go

As for keeping the water temp at 55 to 60 degrees this article on legionaries disease this was an interesting read when I worked for Carillion

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2094925/
Dave, i cant see if its WRAS approved and no mention of TMV2 and TMV3 certificates, don't know if you need them down in England, been away from the tools for a few years now so don't know the current regs
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