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Old 1st November 2019, 12:40   #1
Blink
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Question Thread-lock for rear suspension arms

Assuming the 4 upper & lower arm-to-subframe bolts need thread-lock, what's the trick to getting the bolts in without scraping it all off on the bushes?

Or do they need thread-lock at all?
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Old 1st November 2019, 12:56   #2
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I just checked the old factory arm-to-subframe bolts that I took out and they don't have any thread-lock.

Neither do the 4 old factory subframe-to-body bolts.
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Old 1st November 2019, 12:56   #3
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I’ve never used it at all on these bolts.
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Old 1st November 2019, 13:46   #4
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I’ve never used it at all on these bolts.
Ok, thanks Trikey.
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Old 1st November 2019, 16:36   #5
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The captive nuts are Nyloc

Plenty of coppaslip on the plain shank of the bolt, none on the threadform
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Old 1st November 2019, 18:42   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blink View Post
Assuming the 4 upper & lower arm-to-subframe bolts need thread-lock, what's the trick to getting the bolts in without scraping it all off on the bushes?

Or do they need thread-lock at all?
You don't need thread lock. However if you did it would stay at the bottom of the threads and not scrape off during assembly.
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Old 2nd November 2019, 09:22   #7
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You don't need thread lock. However if you did it would stay at the bottom of the threads and not scrape off during assembly.
I suppose that would depend upon the engagement of the thread John.

The bolts supplied new are not Patchlok so thread locking compound is not required.

The captive nuts are Nyloc, so technically are single use, but to be fair who is going to replace them.

My advice is to box it up, then with the weight of the car on the wheels, torque up the pivot bolts to 90 Ft/Lb and not to worry about it

None of the ones I've done so far have fallen off

Brian
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Old 2nd November 2019, 10:11   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marinabrian View Post
I suppose that would depend upon the engagement of the thread John.

The bolts supplied new are not Patchlok so thread locking compound is not required.

The captive nuts are Nyloc, so technically are single use, but to be fair who is going to replace them.

My advice is to box it up, then with the weight of the car on the wheels, torque up the pivot bolts to 90 Ft/Lb and not to worry about it

None of the ones I've done so far have fallen off

Brian
All very true as Thread lock is for metal to metal contact and would definitely not work in a nylon insert nut.

Maybe a Spring locking washer would be of some help. The ends might dig in and offer some resistance to undoing. --
That would be metal to metal.----
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Old 2nd November 2019, 10:12   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marinabrian View Post
The captive nuts are Nyloc

Plenty of coppaslip on the plain shank of the bolt, none on the threadform
I'd clean forgotten this Brian - even though you told me in another thread.

I've already got a tub of Comma Copper Ease - I suppose that'll do instead of Copaslip.


Quote:
Originally Posted by marinabrian View Post
.... My advice is to box it up, then with the weight of the car on the wheels, torque up the pivot bolts to 90 Ft/Lb and not to worry about it

Brian
OK, I'll try doing it that way, although I'm not sure I can physically get at the bolts when the wheels are back on because the car isn't high enough off the ground to crawl right under the floorpan. I can't lift it any higher because my trolley jack had already reached full tilt getting 3 layers of wooden sleepers under the sill jack points. (It needs 4 layers to be able to crawl under the floorpan).
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Old 2nd November 2019, 10:48   #10
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I'd clean forgotten this Brian - even though you told me in another thread.

I've already got a tub of Comma Copper Ease - I suppose that'll do instead of Copaslip.




OK, I'll try doing it that way, although I'm not sure I can physically get at the bolts when the wheels are back on because the car isn't high enough off the ground to crawl right under the floorpan. I can't lift it any higher because my trolley jack had already reached full tilt getting 3 layers of wooden sleepers under the sill jack points. (It needs 4 layers to be able to crawl under the floorpan).
Just curious. Are those sleepers under the jacking points taking any weight ???


Don't know if this helps but the wheels don't have to be on if you are supporting the cars weight on the suspension.

( Blocks of wood underneath. )
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