Go Back   The 75 and ZT Owners Club Forums > The 75 and ZT Owners Club Forums > Technical Help Forum
Register FAQ Image Gallery Members List Calendar Mark Forums Read
Notices

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 16th September 2019, 18:55   #21
SD1too
Doesn't do things by halves
 
SD1too's Avatar
 
Rover 75 2.5 Connoisseur Auto (1999) Dealer launch model.

Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Former Middlesex
Posts: 20,265
Thanks: 1,587
Thanked 3,749 Times in 3,181 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by COLVERT View Post
Your smart charger is applying 13.71 volts because it senses that is all the battery needs to maintain its condition. If your sensor in your charger detects a low voltage in a battery it's charging it will increase the rate of charge ...
Thanks Jon. Following Phil's posts I've been observing the output of my C-tek charger and you are quite right, after partially discharging the SD1's battery the voltage did rise to 14.4 v for a period then reduced to 13.7 v. I would like to see if my 75's alternator behaves this way as Phil says his does.

Simon
__________________
"Whatever is rightly done, however humble, is noble."
Sir Henry Royce.
SD1too is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 16th September 2019, 19:39   #22
COLVERT
This is my second home
 
R75 Saloon.

Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: France/or Devon.
Posts: 14,003
Thanks: 3,851
Thanked 2,167 Times in 1,816 Posts
Default

Further to this alternator, battery voltage thread.

I've just come back in from testing the alternator output with the engine ticking over. ( Diesel. )

1/ Nothing electrical switched on.---14.55 volts. approx.

2/ Dipped lights on. ---14.53 volts. approx.

2/ Head and dip lights on together. ---14.50 volts. approx.

The battery voltage before I started the test was 12.65 volts.

I now and then check the battery the day after the car has been in use. It varies from 12.6 to 12.75 volts.

My car will have been on the road 16 years in December and the current battery is number three. ( In use 4 years, approx. )

The alternator has never been touched.

It would seem then that the car electrics and previous batteries have all been happy at the above mentioned voltages.

From this I would suggest to the OP that he has nothing to worry about with the reading he gave us of his alternators output.
COLVERT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 16th September 2019, 21:19   #23
edwardmk
Gets stuck in
 
edwardmk's Avatar
 
MG ZT 260, Rover 75 Connie SE auto

Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Redruth
Posts: 982
Thanks: 1,324
Thanked 399 Times in 271 Posts
Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by marinabrian View Post
Check your background illumination isn't remaining illuminated around the light switch after the car is locked

Brian
Thanks Brian for the tip. I can confirm no lights of any kind on the outside or inside.
I charged with a CTEK MXS-5.0 overnight. Charger voltage was 13.75v at 10pm. Current draw with everything off was always 1.35-1.4 amps. Final reading of the charger this morning at 0800 was 13.50v and when taken off the battery was at 13.04 volts which dropped quickly to 12.7v in two minutes. Current drain steady at 1.4a.
(Battery is fairly new Yusaka 80amp/hr with 720 cranking amps from Halfords ~ 1 year old with 5 yr guarantee ).
I drove the car from Camborne to Truro and back today (approx 20 miles)
I drove back in rain with wipers, heater, dipped lights and radio on and some use of electric windows.
On parking back home the battery voltage was 12.32v at 5 pm. Current draw still 1.4a . With the engine on tickover with dipped lights, wipers and radio, the alternator voltage was 14.28.
Just re-checked the current draw, and still 1.4 amps.
If I remove the 50amp fuse FL3 the current drain stops, so it's something off that fuse, but not any of the other fuses or relays linked to FL3 in the fuse box.
Sorry for the long description. Any ideas most welcome.
edwardmk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 17th September 2019, 07:05   #24
SD1too
Doesn't do things by halves
 
SD1too's Avatar
 
Rover 75 2.5 Connoisseur Auto (1999) Dealer launch model.

Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Former Middlesex
Posts: 20,265
Thanks: 1,587
Thanked 3,749 Times in 3,181 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by edwardmk View Post
If I remove the 50amp fuse FL3 the current drain stops, so it's something off that fuse, but not any of the other fuses or relays linked to FL3 in the fuse box.
Good morning Edward. Are you saying that you have removed all of these, one by one, and the current drain remained at 1.4 amps more than 18 minutes after turning off the ignition?

Simon
__________________
"Whatever is rightly done, however humble, is noble."
Sir Henry Royce.
SD1too is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 17th September 2019, 09:25   #25
edwardmk
Gets stuck in
 
edwardmk's Avatar
 
MG ZT 260, Rover 75 Connie SE auto

Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Redruth
Posts: 982
Thanks: 1,324
Thanked 399 Times in 271 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by SD1too View Post
Good morning Edward. Are you saying that you have removed all of these, one by one, and the current drain remained at 1.4 amps more than 18 minutes after turning off the ignition?

Simon
I have the fusebox under the hood right by the washer bottle filler passenger side front of engine. I'd post a picture but I haven't learned how to do it yet.
I put a Sealey Automotive TA126 fused 30a tester in series with the battery in the boot so everything should be going through it.
I left it on and removed every fuse, one by one, and every relay, one by one that was in the fuse box. The only one that stopped the current drain was removing FL3 50A.
If I leave the battery connected, from full charge to can't turn over the engine is about 48 hrs.
edwardmk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 17th September 2019, 10:54   #26
SD1too
Doesn't do things by halves
 
SD1too's Avatar
 
Rover 75 2.5 Connoisseur Auto (1999) Dealer launch model.

Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Former Middlesex
Posts: 20,265
Thanks: 1,587
Thanked 3,749 Times in 3,181 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by edwardmk View Post
I .... removed every fuse, one by one, and every relay, one by one that was in the fuse box. The only one that stopped the current drain was removing FL3 50A.
Edward, it's the passenger compartment fusebox you need to be looking at, as stated in my earlier reply:
Quote:
Originally Posted by SD1too View Post
Power wash relay and fuses 28 to 36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 47, 49, 51 and 53 of the passenger compartment fusebox.
You will find this in the nearside footwell behind the panel under the glove compartment.

Simon
__________________
"Whatever is rightly done, however humble, is noble."
Sir Henry Royce.
SD1too is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 17th September 2019, 11:53   #27
edwardmk
Gets stuck in
 
edwardmk's Avatar
 
MG ZT 260, Rover 75 Connie SE auto

Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Redruth
Posts: 982
Thanks: 1,324
Thanked 399 Times in 271 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by SD1too View Post
Edward, it's the passenger compartment fusebox you need to be looking at, as stated in my earlier reply:

You will find this in the nearside footwell behind the panel under the glove compartment.

Simon
Morning Simon,

I didn't remember there was another fuse box. I should have because It was in the way when I did Arctic's sunroof drains modification.:
That's definitely my project for tonight. Really appreciate your patience in pointing me in the right direction
Report of findings to follow later this evening
edwardmk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 17th September 2019, 12:08   #28
RoverP480
Gets stuck in
 
None at the moment

Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Hereford
Posts: 501
Thanks: 1
Thanked 165 Times in 146 Posts
Default

I would check the current drain after everything switched off , doors locked & immobilized. You can leave the bonnet open to get at the battery, if you operate the bonnet latches to fool the electronics that the bonnet is closed. Then check after 20 mins or so , so that all the ecu's have time to "sleep"
RoverP480 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 17th September 2019, 17:28   #29
COLVERT
This is my second home
 
R75 Saloon.

Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: France/or Devon.
Posts: 14,003
Thanks: 3,851
Thanked 2,167 Times in 1,816 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by RoverP480 View Post
I would check the current drain after everything switched off , doors locked & immobilized. You can leave the bonnet open to get at the battery, if you operate the bonnet latches to fool the electronics that the bonnet is closed. Then check after 20 mins or so , so that all the ecu's have time to "sleep"
Did you allow for the fact that the OP said it only took 48 hours from charged to discharged ??

That's quite some power drain. I don't think that 20 minutes rest will tell very much.

He has a component somewhere that NEVER sleeps.---
COLVERT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 17th September 2019, 22:28   #30
edwardmk
Gets stuck in
 
edwardmk's Avatar
 
MG ZT 260, Rover 75 Connie SE auto

Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Redruth
Posts: 982
Thanks: 1,324
Thanked 399 Times in 271 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by SD1too View Post
Edward, it's the passenger compartment fusebox you need to be looking at, as stated in my earlier reply:

You will find this in the nearside footwell behind the panel under the glove compartment.

Simon
Well I managed to pull every fuse and relay individually and there was no current draw on any of them on the right hand panel except 29 (to the instrument panel?) which was showing a 0-0.1 amps fluctuating. When I put back in fuse 36 there was a single beep, so I was quite disappointed to find nothing more. I attached the Sealey current meter to my battery in the boot and pushed it through the ski slot in the back seat so I could view it through the rear nearside window. I then locked up the whole car leaving the current meter connected for over thirty minutes. Right now, to my total disbelief, it's reading the same as when I pulled fuse 29 at 0-0.1a However, if the car is designed to draw even 0.1a continuously, then it would seem to be unwise to park it for a two week holiday unless the battery was fully charged and you were carrying jump leads for your return. Thank you to everyone for taking the trouble to post. I was convinced I had a major fault. I'll keep observing and testing to see how long the battery lasts now. Here's hoping the 20a fuse I put in the Sealey is big enough to cope with the boot opening relay current tomorrow night when I'll check the battery voltage again. 12.4v tonight at 23.30.
edwardmk is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT. The time now is 06:39.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright © 2006-2023, The Rover 75 & MG ZT Owners Club Ltd